Author Topic: Buildup: My quest for NA 280 hp (Read 156696 times)

longms · « **Reply #150 on:** September 21, 2011, 09:06:52 AM »

Boyracer. I hope you don't mind my asking but do you have a rough estimate as to how much this is all costing you? And if you would rather not add it up for your own sake I understand.

I am very impressed with your work!!!

Boyracer · « **Reply #151 on:** October 28, 2011, 03:00:23 AM »

Still alive!

I ordered some parts for test fitting after talk with my engine machinist. One is steel insert to convert OEM hydraulic lifter to solid (10� / pcs) and true solid lifter with lash cap (24� / pcs). I will test fit them to see which one is better suited to my cam/valve combination ie. if either of them offer enough adjustment range for reground cam with smaller base circle.

I did also check cam carriers with cams and cam carriers MUST be machined to allow lifters to move further up on lifter bores, otherwise lifters do not touch cams base circle at all... There is perhaps 1 mm gap.

Most likely I will machine the cam carriers and fit solid lifters to my current installed stock head. That will be around 250� - 450�. Full performance cylinder head with new valves, guides, porting etc would be around 1500-2000� which is way too much in one go

Bottom end needs just to be put together, all parts should be there, balancing and machining etc has been done.

Only thing I have been able to do recently is aluminium battery holder, located on rear seat footwell:

I also got to drive the car for a change:

I was about 3 secs off the pace of true E36 325i race car which had same tires and about 60 hp more. Not bad show considering it was a power circuit with long straghts :cool:

Car was very good to drive but quite boring, suspension and tires are so good that yu could fall asleep on long straghts... NEED MOAR POWR! :eek:

dsm2002 · « **Reply #152 on:** October 28, 2011, 03:33:22 AM »

Quote from: Boyracer;107736

I did also check cam carriers with cams and cam carriers MUST be machined to allow lifters to move further up on lifter bores, otherwise lifters do not touch cams base circle at all... There is perhaps 1 mm gap.

Most likely I will machine the cam carriers and fit solid lifters to my current installed stock head. That will be around 250€ - 450€. Full performance cylinder head with new valves, guides, porting etc would be around 1500-2000€ which is way too much in one go

Hi Jan, good to hear it is progressing. I am not sure if you have caught my thread. I have some pics and flow figures for my M42 head which is heartening as it can flow a theoretical 280hp.

I had a chat with the fella who did my head up about machining the cam carriers. He thought it would not be a problem to machine them. If you bore it right though, it could cut into the cam journal.

He showed me a Nissan 3.5 IRL heads he had in his workshop. It has the narrow lower journals. His advise was that, from a mechanical load, this should not be an issue because the narrow journal would be on the unweighted side: valve springs push up and loading would be on the upper journal surface. The only concern would be oiling - whether the oil would drain excessively, starving other parts of the head. I am not sure if this is an issue with solid lifters.

David

Boyracer · « **Reply #153 on:** October 28, 2011, 03:15:37 PM »

I went to internet and I found this:

That is from BMW Motorsport S42 engine. If his worked for them, it should work for us too :p

bwawuz02 · « **Reply #154 on:** December 23, 2011, 08:27:06 AM »

Quote from: BlueAppleSoda;104735

I'm unsure if you are concerned but if you use the newer ev6-style ev1 bosch injectors, fuel atomization pattern is much wider and finer, and they are smoother at low PWs.

Also ms3x...sequential fuel and spark for 8 cylinders....I'm sure you already know that.

Derek

I ordered some of these Design 4s... 60mm length o-ring to o-ring, should be a direct swap. And they're supposed to not have the leaking problem that the Design 3s do.

http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=206

Boyracer · « **Reply #155 on:** December 28, 2011, 05:43:43 AM »

Planning brakes:

Caliper/hub clearance is a problem with 309 mm brake disc, perhaps I should step up to 323 or 330 mm.

Parts for DIY front/rear tubular control arms:

Boyracer · « **Reply #156 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:45:39 PM »

Some progress on electronics front!

Coil dwell & spark measurements with scope:

Ignition & injector driver box:

Solid lifters waiting to get cam carriers modified:

Shortened S50B30 ITB shaft, I brazed it back together with silver:

I tried to make my own adapter plate but could not achieve good enough accuracy so I had to buy this in the end:

Ign & inj box has now own connectors for ingition coils and primary and secondary injectors. Cable trees I have made allow every injector to be controlled independently so staged full sequential is possible when I upgrade to MS3. All injector and coil channels are tested and working, I also added few capacitors to box to prevent current spikes and voltage drops.

I think I will get set of newer EV6 injectors instead of using old EV1 or EV1.3 types I already have... EV6 opens faster and atomization is better.

Boyracer · « **Reply #157 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:54:15 PM »

I also bought Toyota MR2 electric power steering pump and I am designin microcontroller circuit to adjust it's power depending on speed and demanded load. Electric pump is useful so I can get rid of stock pump which is in way of oil filter/cooler pickup plate connectors.

dsm2002 · « **Reply #158 on:** February 08, 2012, 05:34:55 PM »

good to see progress. what brake hats will you be using? Are those rotors Wilwoord 8x7.00" bcd? RallyDesign in the UK have universal hats for these rotors.

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #159 on:** February 08, 2012, 07:29:21 PM »

Phenomenal project you've got going; always good to see M42 development. I took the easy way and did MS and a turbo, haha.

Boyracer · « **Reply #160 on:** February 08, 2012, 07:40:11 PM »

Quote from: dsm2002;110112

good to see progress. what brake hats will you be using? Are those rotors Wilwoord 8x7.00" bcd? RallyDesign in the UK have universal hats for these rotors.

I did buy my hats from RallyDesign so they need some machining

I also bought those Wilwood UL32 309/32 mm rotors from there but I think I might have to order bigger ones... Now caliper lugs interfere somewhat with hub lugs even after bit of machining, I need about 10 mm larger diameter rotors.

wazzu70 · « **Reply #161 on:** May 24, 2012, 01:06:54 PM »

Any progress. I enjoy this thread

Boyracer · « **Reply #162 on:** May 26, 2012, 07:38:17 AM »

Something has indeed happened :eek:

Went to dyno to get some baseline numbers before summer upgrades. Engine is well down on power and especially torque compared to run in same dyno in 2008:

2008 I only had ebay chip as tuning, this time I did not have chip, only modification is very free flow 2.5" exhaust and exhaust manifold secondaries.

I have always said that the chip was very effective altough the too-large-for-this-power-level exhaust might rob some torque down low.

I have been on track for few times this season and I have improved my laptime on my favourite track by 2.5 seconds now. Also won my class in BMW Club Finland sprint race by 3,5 s per lap and had I run one class higher I would have been on podium against 325's and 328's

Car is very stable and easy to drive, suspension and tires work well. I suspect I cannot get Toyo R888 tires up to working temperature so once summer warms up times should improve further even without other modifications. Problem is that I have to get to corners with huge speed adn try to maintain it throughout because I have so little power that I cannot make up the lost time from exits as car is now power limited, not grip limited.

There is hint of understeer on slow corners, I think that can be cured with adjusting camber with shims and tire pressures.

On the downside starter failed on dyno, we push started the car and on the way home car stalled on busy main road as I was coming to red light -> tow needed... The car will be taken to friends carage next week for fix and installing new parts I have had lying around for years.

To-do list:

- Fix starter...
- new mounting points for drivers seat (15 cm further back and 5 cm lower)
- 6-point harness mounting points
- High capacity radiator + expansion tank install
- Crankcase/valvecoer breather tank install
- Wideband lambda install

Bit later I hope:

- Remove door inside trim, window lifters, install alu trim
- Fabricate and install tubular + spherical rear control arms
- Move gearstick 10 cm backwards
- heel support below pedals
- install and tune megasquirt
- remove stock air meter + filter, replace with K& cone.
- Replace trunk lid with glassfiber one
- Make brackets to mount Wilwood Superlite front brakes
- Install 80 mm steering rack spacer to bring steering wheel closer

Things I have bought recently:

- Set of Bosch EV6 ~400 ccm injectors
- Set of BBS RK 8x17" wheels
- 2 sets of Michelin 200/610-17 racing slicks

- Set of Wilwood 323x32 mm brake discs (309x32 were too small in diameter, they will go back at some point)

On engine front I am not quite sure what to do... I need MOAR POWR but the all-out engine is too expensive to finish for this season so I might try to get something out of current engine if it clears compression etc checks... I will get yet another set of 256/10.4 mm cams made that I can use with current stock head, with megasquirt they should yield around 170 hp. And if I manage to install ITB,s well, I would be disapointed not to see 180 hp.

Car is now 1090 kg without driver, some 200 kg lighter than E36 M3 I go to track with (altough they have cages). With racing slicks this car should give any lightly modified M3 a good run for its money atleast on twisty circuits :cool:

Boyracer · « **Reply #163 on:** June 07, 2012, 04:55:56 AM »

Something has happened :confused:

Turned out starter was only attached with one bolt and even that was falling out... Me and my friend decided to remove intake manifold to get easy access to fix it. Manifold was nasty to remove because of all the electric wiring for sensors etc being in middle of it and we really did not fancy idea of putting manifold back together...

So we decided to chuck it away and finally try to plug in the S50 ITB's. There's plenty of space with shortened S50B30 trumpets but since this engine will not rev to 8500 (the other engine I have will once it is ready) so longer trumpets better suited to ~7500 rev limiter will be either manufactured from aluminium or nicked from spare S50B32 engine.

Megasquirt is waiting for installation, need just to make hole in spare motronic box housing adapter circuits for mega's D25 connector.

Still need to come up with vacuum rail and fuel rails. And airbox and filter enclosure, they are going to be aluminium at start. Most important thing now is to get car running, I can optimize parts later on.

Alternator and power steering pump have been removed, power steering pump will be replaced with Toyota MR2 electric pump later on. Alternator will be moved to where A/C compressor is. OEM alternator is huge and heavy, I think I might replace it with some small japanese car alternator that is half the size & weight.

romkasponka · « **Reply #164 on:** June 07, 2012, 10:23:31 AM »

You can use MB A class steering pump also, it is very compact and it is made in one peace with hydraulic tank.