The mess under the intake

[anthonymax007]

I'm going to do this on Saturday. What torque specifications should I be aware of?

[cyborgben]

doing the muti and was thinking of replacing the rubber fuel lines from the hard crazy H shaped lines in the intake down to the hard lines on the frame. why cant i just run rubber lines all the way up and get rid of the upper hard lines and their extra connections and lack of flexibility...?  opinions?
note - i read this entire post in the past and dont remember this topic, if it was in there, then i just forgot or missed it and i apologize

[DesktopDave]

doing the muti and was thinking of replacing the rubber fuel lines from the hard crazy H shaped lines in the intake down to the hard lines on the frame. why cant i just run rubber lines all the way up and get rid of the upper hard lines and their extra connections and lack of flexibility...?  opinions?
note - i read this entire post in the past and dont remember this topic, if it was in there, then i just forgot or missed it and i apologize

Hey Ben, whuzzup?

I've thought about that myself.  I figured it was a production line detail just to make it easier to install the motor.  I don't see why it'd be a problem.  Maybe fuel line abrasion was a problem when they tested the M42?

[cyborgben]

long winter with too many kids, septic tanks, fallen trees and wives.. trying to get back to the m42 now (new black interior waiting) and the lift is still in the "developmental stage.." good luck with the new shark - they are a cool statement kind of car.

anyway to stay on topic - you could always put some wire loom on it, or split a larger size heater hose, but my walet aswered it for me - fuel injection line was 7 bucks a foot at advance - almost 40 bucks for something that already works and might cause some unforeseen problem? no thanks.

[carguy101]

Mine definitely runs smoother with this. I didn't take off the intake, so it can be done while doing the rest.

[bsturman92]

hey gotta question. im ordering all my parts now for mess under the intake.. and i want to be sure my vacuum hoses do not collapse. wat type of hose should i order? im gettting all my parts through pelican but if there are better hoses at auto store i would prefer to pick those up. im getting 5/8 heater hose, 19/32 vacuum hose. where should i get the hose from is wat im tryin to ask i guess.. any help would be appreciated

[monty23psk]

Will tracking my lumpy idle I noticed a the OEM hose on top of the ICV to the back of the valve cover was cracked and starting to go. I decided to keep it going with the silicone hoses I used in the other areas. I then reverse the ICV and bought another 2 feet fo the 12mm hose. I then ran it from the valve cover to the ICV. The issue is that ICV fitting at the top and bottom are better fitted for the 16mm hose and they dont make a 14mm. I then figured out you can use the 12mm inside the 16mm very snug. I then used one of the straight OEM couplers to join he 12mm hose coming from under the intake boot to the 16mm hose going to the bottom of the ICV. I could have just merged them also, but I had the hoses cut shorter from the last setup. I try to keep it looking stock.

[Johnny D]

Need some help.  Searched, but not able to sift through all the info to find my answer.

I did this last week and replaced all the hoses with new of the correct type.  My issue comes from the head to the plastic piece in the block.
I have mine connected like the pic below that was posted earlier in the thread, everything is tight and of the correct size.  Im still seeing high temps and a leak at the head.  What is the flow direction?  Does it come out of the head and into the block or the other way around?

[MattBimmer]

Need some help guys how do you disconnect the wiring harness from the Alternator

[Bald Eagle]

I scoured the internet with no luck on finding color codes or ways to identify the 3 wires to the head and oil sensor. Right from the manual I found the correct setup with explanation on exactly what i needed.

I will also post reply of replacing the Water port on rear of the head as no one has offered this info.

* Coolant Temperature Gage Sender, Coolant Temperature Sensor - DME, Oil Pressure Switch (Sensors under intake, Temp gauge)*

[Nick_318is]

Many thanks to everyone who posted in this thread.  I finally did this project a few weeks ago after thinking about it for a year.  The car runs great (when you have the ICV pointed the right direction  )

This picture from page 22 made the process very straight forward so you don't even really need to think about it.  I opted for the loop of hose between the head and the pipe, rather than closing them off, I shoved some 1/2 heater hoe into the 5/8 hose to get a nice fit.

[monty23psk]

Ha, those are my pictures unless you refer to the diagrams and not pictures. I have since move the ICV to elbow hose to the bottom whole closer to the AFM, away from the throttle body as per bmwman91's stating it in another thread. Didnt really change anything in the running characteristics.

[Nick_318is]

I was actually referring to this diagram, but your pictures are pretty good too.  I left the ICV where it originally was, I had 2 of the 90 degree connectors (pn 13411721971) one on either side and then reused a plastic connector to go right to the elbow with 5/8" hose.

[Slowered318]

Found the perfect hose to go from the water pipe to the head. Part #11531247398
All you have to do is cut it to length.

[docgoku]

I've tacked on way to many maintenance items to this job but it's a good thing to get done on a car at this point in its life.  I've only had it for a few months now, so good to get into the internals a bit.
Full list: cooling pipe, all cooling hoses, thermostat, aux belts, fuel filter, ICV clean, flush cooling system, and now after reading the thread again... oil catch can mod.

Right now though, I've gotten all the intakes off and replaced the fuel filter.  Then got started on cleaning the intakes.  My injectors don't want to come out but I'm reading on that one. 

One big question and then some pictures. 
The rubber grommet that connects into the main vacuum, has anyone replaced that? 
It just seems a little loose and old. 
I'm going though realoem now, see if I can make it out.  Will be something I tackle at the end.  Its easy to get to later.


I'd strongly suggest replacing the two little fuel lines that connect to the fuel rail.  One of mine was fine.  The other was fused on both ends and very brittle.


Today, since I only get about 1-2 hours at a time, wife+child are kind enough to give me that much.   
I'm going to be cleaning and cleaning.....  Great thread btw!