The mess under the intake

[docgoku]

Making progress, one mystery came up.

The hoses to and from the heater core, check this out 


Is this setup to by-pass the heater core? 
I'm pretty sure my heater works fine, only used it once or twice though.


Thanks for any help on this one, I've pulled up the one RealOEM diagram of all the engine cooling and it's not showing that type of interconnect.  And this just looks like a hack to keep flow to block if the heater core is not working...

More confirmation as to why anyone with an E30 should do this and then other little tasks as well.

[DesktopDave]

Making progress, one mystery came up.

The hoses to and from the heater core, check this out 


Is this setup to by-pass the heater core? 
I'm pretty sure my heater works fine, only used it once or twice though.


Thanks for any help on this one, I've pulled up the one RealOEM diagram of all the engine cooling and it's not showing that type of interconnect.  And this just looks like a hack to keep flow to block if the heater core is not working...

That was a BMW service fix to prevent high pressure from rupturing the heater core.  It's a waxstat that opens to release pressure, bleeds back into the supply line before it enters the cabin.

[docgoku]

Sounds like something I should keep then?
I'm assuming that was a needed service fix.

Thanks for the information, bc that was confusing. Looking up the service fix now.  Man, it's like every TSB site is now pay for access. 

[Slowered318]

One big question and then some pictures. 
The rubber grommet that connects into the main vacuum, has anyone replaced that? 
It just seems a little loose and old. 
I'm going though realoem now, see if I can make it out.  Will be something I tackle at the end.  Its easy to get to later.

I replaced the entire assembly, last thing you want is a vacuum leak or unexpected loss of brake assistance.

Any 12-13mm ID (1/2 inch x 12) vacuum hose should work, I used 300psi industrial hose for added confidence but the part number is 34331115926. It's also a good time to replace the check valve, PN is 34331156703 or 34331154581. Plastic elbow PN is 34331158930 and brake booster grommet 4331158929 is currently on sale at ECS.

[docgoku]

I replaced the entire assembly, last thing you want is a vacuum leak or unexpected loss of brake assistance.

Any 12-13mm ID (1/2 inch x 12) vacuum hose should work, I used 300psi industrial hose for added confidence but the part number is 34331115926. It's also a good time to replace the check valve, PN is 34331156703 or 34331154581. Plastic elbow PN is 34331158930 and brake booster grommet 4331158929 is currently on sale at ECS.

Thank You!  This will be order #10ish from our fine part suppliers of the interwebs.   

The check valve.  Crazy between the two possible valves.  34331154581 is $31 vs. 34331156703 at $7.  The first is strait where the 2nd is the elbow check valve like I have.  I'm doing the $7.  Just nuts.

As for the hose, I have some hiperformancestore.com silicone hoses, still a little leary of how much they can take before collapsing. 
I see their boost tests but still.  I guess I have the kit, might as well try, just as a test.  But yeah, on the road loosing all of those systems would be bad. 

[docgoku]

You know, the more I think about that brake booster and how loose it is, one of my peeves with the car right now is braking performance.  The previous owner had just put on cheap auto parts store rotors and pads, so I thought it was that...and he is a BMW petrol-head guy.  That's what he kept saying, probably the cheap rotor/pad combo.  But... it could just be this... not a good seal, lost a ton of braking performance.  Parts are ordered... should be pretty interesting test.  Assuming the silicone hoses don't collapse. 

[Gods_Son]

Can someone familiar with the procedure please re-color or label which coolant hoses to add and which to delete? From my monitor they blue looks the same for add and delete so I cannot make out what I'm supposed to do. Thanks.

[DesktopDave]

I replaced the entire assembly, last thing you want is a vacuum leak or unexpected loss of brake assistance.

Any 12-13mm ID (1/2 inch x 12) vacuum hose should work, I used 300psi industrial hose for added confidence but the part number is 34331115926. It's also a good time to replace the check valve, PN is 34331156703 or 34331154581. Plastic elbow PN is 34331158930 and brake booster grommet 4331158929 is currently on sale at ECS.

Thank You!  This will be order #10ish from our fine part suppliers of the interwebs.   

The check valve.  Crazy between the two possible valves.  34331154581 is $31 vs. 34331156703 at $7.  The first is strait where the 2nd is the elbow check valve like I have.  I'm doing the $7.  Just nuts.

As for the hose, I have some hiperformancestore.com silicone hoses, still a little leary of how much they can take before collapsing. 
I see their boost tests but still.  I guess I have the kit, might as well try, just as a test.  But yeah, on the road loosing all of those systems would be bad.

I bought the Hiperformance.com kit in red.  One hose was a bit short, hopefully they've fixed that (it didn't make much difference as I was eliminating the throttle heater plates).  The cigar cutter is brilliant, though too small for the largest hose they send.  No complaints otherwise - great people to deal with, answered all my questions, very high quality product.  I've had it in the car for over two years with zero problems to report.  I did note that the tight fit is a problem.  If the hose is nice and tight, it can be internally damaged by repeatedly pulling it on and off.

Losing a brake booster is problematic but not fatal.  The brakes still work, they just require a lot more effort.  IMHO most boosters are not running at 100% regardless - and both the booster and the master cylinder are massively overbuilt.

[Nick_318is]

Here is my quick and dirty paint edit of the diagram with red arrows pointing at them.  Delete any hoses going to the heater plate.  Take pictures as you take it apart to help remember where things went once you see how it goes you'll see how much easier routing them this way is.

Can someone familiar with the procedure please re-color or label which coolant hoses to add and which to delete? From my monitor they blue looks the same for add and delete so I cannot make out what I'm supposed to do. Thanks.

[Slowered318]

Thank You!  This will be order #10ish from our fine part suppliers of the interwebs.   

The check valve.  Crazy between the two possible valves.  34331154581 is $31 vs. 34331156703 at $7.  The first is strait where the 2nd is the elbow check valve like I have.  I'm doing the $7.  Just nuts.

As for the hose, I have some hiperformancestore.com silicone hoses, still a little leary of how much they can take before collapsing. 
I see their boost tests but still.  I guess I have the kit, might as well try, just as a test.  But yeah, on the road loosing all of those systems would be bad.

I hope they had some patience left after dealing with my 7 separate orders. haha!

Sounds like a win/win on the check valve, the angled one should allow for more movement with the engine.

The silicon should work but I would still go with high pressure fuel hose. Just stop into an industrial hose supply store, they will have scrap laying around. I found some hose just like this, it's flexible yet I cannot crush it without a clamp. http://parshun.en.alibaba.com/product/932071892-200046207/SAE_30R7_Cotton_Outer_braided_fuel_hose.html

[Gods_Son]

Here is my quick and dirty paint edit of the diagram with red arrows pointing at them.  Delete any hoses going to the heater plate.  Take pictures as you take it apart to help remember where things went once you see how it goes you'll see how much easier routing them this way is.

Can someone familiar with the procedure please re-color or label which coolant hoses to add and which to delete? From my monitor they blue looks the same for add and delete so I cannot make out what I'm supposed to do. Thanks.

Excellent, thank you so much!

[docgoku]

recolored the picutre.  That purple and blue was a little hard to see.  Nelson_40 and/or Blue BMW (or someone else?) look to have made these images and they are the best diagrams!  Many thanks to them.

[docgoku]

I only got about an hour today but one question.  The heater hose.  Anyone else get this look from their new coolant hose between the cooling pipe and the block?
Given that it's not really needed, aka that port has been capped off by some people, I'm not that worried.... but this is what it looks like.  Just kind of 3/4 collapsed.


For anyone else reading later, this is what the block nipple side looks like with 5/8 heater hose and no step down like some people have done, to 1/2 to fit the smaller nipple on the block.
That worked for the OP for a number of years so I think it will be OK. 


This is the heater hose I used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2WEIC/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My brake booster parts haven't arrived from ECS yet, USPS....little sluggish.  But tomorrow I'll replace my thermostat and then start to button the intake back up.

Top view of the new coolant / heater hose I used.... from coolant pipe to engine block.

[docgoku]

Finished yesterday.  Had some bonus tasks like rust on the battery tray, new battery, and new battery cables that took up a little time.  And new fuel lines back at the fuel filter...
But, she's running and well.  I have a little nock every now and then I can hear inside the car but not outside.  So, tracking that down.  I think it's perhaps where I mounted the ICV. 

She's staying right in the middle on temperature so that's a good sign and no massive loss of coolant or fuel.  *yet* 

Best thread ever, and I tried to show how I flatened the ICV holder bracket and mounted it to the fuel rail bracket...but hard to take a good picture of that.

The Pics


Thanks for some of the good fuel line pictures, I was tempted to hook these two up backwards.


without the fan shroud back on.  During all this... definitely know the radiator will be done next.
I didn't do a full cooling system flush b/c I'll be taking it all apart again in a few months to replace the radiator.


Finished pictures, without the fan shroud and under car protection back.  I'm leaving those off, have belts todo.

[david318vert]

Top view of the new coolant / heater hose I used.... from coolant pipe to engine block.

used the diagram but that hose in this picture exploded vapor from the engine block it was a new hose. checked it it was still on tight. im confused what i could have done wrong followed the diagram to the dot. any ideas?

Thanks