Author Topic: cylinder head discussion time!!!  (Read 17192 times)

tim_s

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cylinder head discussion time!!!
« on: June 04, 2006, 06:00:02 PM »
ok, so now that the 2.1 is run-in and everything is ok, im beginning to turn my attention towards the top end of the engine and more specifically the cylinder head. the ITBs are ready, but it will be a few months before the head gets done as i have bills such as tyres, tax, MOT (yearly govt test) and more money into MS mapping, but i have loads of questions and stuff to get sorted before the head gets done anyway. but any advice etc is gratefully received, would love to get some cylinder head based discussion going!


before anything else, here's a question. m44 or m42 head? the m44 has rocker arms, i believe this was to reduce friction, is this correct? what are the pros/cons of each head? my brother has an M44 and the head makes less noise than the M42, its pretty silent if you put an ear to the valve cover, so there's a + straight out of the box, plus less friction = more power, plus it has narrower valve stems (although i will be using such valves in the m42 head if i keep it).


anyway, m44/m42 comparison aside, here's roughly the plan:

skim as far as possible. while on the engine stand i plastercined the pistons and i have loads of room on my valve reliefs on the pistons, so will skim the head down to the stop. is that 0.3mm? can anyone confirm?

+1mm inlet valves with the narrower valve stems. the dia will still be too small for my liking, but the head appears to have very little room really. compared to other 4 pot 16v engines our valve size is adequate, but some 4 pot engines that make great power have nice large valve sizes that we can't obtain with our heads.
+1.5mm or +2mm would be nice, but the first problem is simply that i can't find any. if anyone knows of a supplier, please let me know. i also think +2mm would be very close to contacting one another and the benefits of the extra area would be mitigated by the flow interference. in fact i think the combustion chamber would need modding too with +2mm inlet valves. does anyone have any pictures of the underside of an S50b30/s50b32 (euro!) head or a modified/race m42/m50/S50(US) head?

possibly +1mm exh valves - don't really think this is necessary, may do it as a matter of course. comments? might be wasted money i'm thinking.

inlet ports - not too sure. i wonder whether the diameter of the inlet ports is a little too small, i need some advice on this really. i'll measure the port diameter tomorrow, and get the length, get the volume, try to get some pics of the shape etc, mb someone on here can comment? i dont have much experience in this area. i may even do a cutaway of an inlet port if you're lucky!!! anyone have one before i wreck a head!?
on comparison to the S14 the ports seem too small, and any advice on this would be appreciated. i will post up comparison dimensions when i get around to it. i'd love to see some other BMW inlet ports, if anyone has pictures of M50/S50 etc inlet ports, or any BMW inlets really, that would be great. the short side radius seems more than on an S14 too if you look down the port. may remove a little of this, not sure. comments? i'm also not sure what to do about the restriction that the valve stem seal causes, anyone know of a solution to this? the s14 has no such restriction. again, pics of m/s50s etc would be great. would be surprised if the US S50 was like this! anyone have an ETK screenshot of the S50 US valve gear?

lifters - i don't think i can really afford solid lifters and with the mileage i do hydraulics may be more sensible. apparently m50 ones hold more oil, so that may be a solution. one thing i was considering was if i used uprated valve springs would this raise the threshold for lifter overpumping? can't get my head around this, think it might, but i'm not sure. dbilas are the only company i've found so far that do reasonably priced uprated valve springs, anyone any other suggestions? any BMW parts?

febi, would love to hear more about your head! i'm also still curious about what changes were made to the oil system to cope with higher RPM. when i do the head, may have to make some modifications, as once the engine has some miles in it, i will raise how many RPM i will run.

as for cams, i'm not sure that i'll go as wild as febi, partly due to cost and partly because i want impeccable road manners. im thinking of 262, 10.2mm. febi, what are yours and how does it drive?

anyone else on here done any headwork to their m42? any discussion, comments all appreciated, would love to get some good discussion going!

finally, anyone have any motorsport catalogues etc and information about S42 stuff? i'll have a trawl through what i have, but don't hold your breath, its not much! im sure there are some BMW part nos for some interesting bits out there, its just a case of finding them!

2.1 200bhp, 175ft/lbs 318is
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sheepdog

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cylinder head discussion time!!!
« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2006, 01:03:27 AM »
After seeing Febi's head, I would have a head done by the same guys.  It will flow as well or better than a modded m44 head. With these guys, there is no need for solid lifters as they left the hydraulics in. You just have to figure out the right combo for it to work.


The bad side is that while you will have a head ready for 8k, your bottom end will not be. Jim did a bit of specialty work on the bottom end with oil flow and bearings, as well as putting in a windage tray. He does not want some of the oiling tricks revealed as they are key to making 8k reliably, you can do it with normal parts, but not reliably. Work is done to the block, bearings, pistons and rods to ensure things will last.

Head...
The Head was polished/ported, flow benched, and every moving part's weight was reduced. I am not sure if the chamber size was changed or if the valve sizes are stock though. The buckets were swapped for lighter (less oil capacity), and the valve stems and springs are shorter (stems are also thinner) for less weight to carry. Keep in mind, with the 4 valves, there is not much room to increase size as they will begin to shroud each other. Brass guides were put in place on all valves, the seats were recessed and use a brass insert as well. Retainers are ti, and the springs are special rate beehive shape. I know Jim spent a lot of time on spring rate vs. the lifter, so I will not go into the actual rate he uses. Also at these speeds, oil weight will make a difference in how the system works as 8k on hydraulic lifters is a tricky thing to do. While the buckets, retainers, and valves are easy to source, the springs are not off the shelf parts.


Intake...
My understanding is that the intake is not holding the engine back, in fact it apparently flows decent already. It is the AFM that will hold you back if anything.
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romkasponka

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« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2006, 04:05:42 AM »
you can go for compression ratio 11/1 or higher. For that you nead to grind block ~0,9 mm, to mill on piston new dents for valves to have correct gap and to mill piston sides, because our head combustion chamber is not circular ant piston to head clearance will be to small.
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tim_s

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« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2006, 05:15:01 AM »
Quote from: sheepdog
After seeing Febi's head, I would have a head done by the same guys.  It will flow as well or better than a modded m44 head. With these guys, there is no need for solid lifters as they left the hydraulics in. You just have to figure out the right combo for it to work.


The bad side is that while you will have a head ready for 8k, your bottom end will not be. Jim did a bit of specialty work on the bottom end with oil flow and bearings, as well as putting in a windage tray. He does not want some of the oiling tricks revealed as they are key to making 8k reliably, you can do it with normal parts, but not reliably. Work is done to the block, bearings, pistons and rods to ensure things will last.

Head...
The Head was polished/ported, flow benched, and every moving part's weight was reduced. I am not sure if the chamber size was changed or if the valve sizes are stock though. The buckets were swapped for lighter (less oil capacity), and the valve stems and springs are shorter (stems are also thinner) for less weight to carry. Keep in mind, with the 4 valves, there is not much room to increase size as they will begin to shroud each other. Brass guides were put in place on all valves, the seats were recessed and use a brass insert as well. Retainers are ti, and the springs are special rate beehive shape. I know Jim spent a lot of time on spring rate vs. the lifter, so I will not go into the actual rate he uses. Also at these speeds, oil weight will make a difference in how the system works as 8k on hydraulic lifters is a tricky thing to do. While the buckets, retainers, and valves are easy to source, the springs are not off the shelf parts.


Intake...
My understanding is that the intake is not holding the engine back, in fact it apparently flows decent already. It is the AFM that will hold you back if anything.


hi, thanks for the reply! i'm not running an AFM,  I'm running megasquirt, so that potential restriction is gone. fwiw when I had the 1.8 on the rollers I hooked up a perssure gauge to the intake to see if it was a restriction, as on the S14 there is some due to the AFM on WOT, but there isn't on a standard M42. not to say there wouldn't be now i have a much bigger capacity. i'd have although thought our intake manifold + throttle body may be problematic, but I'm going to be running my ITBs anyway.

as for febi's, its running m50 lifters, isnt it? the valve size is standard, and the valve stem dia is just the late m42 dia. febi said that little was done in terms of flowing to his head. as for the lower mass of the valvegear, that's the case with the later m42 valvegear, not just febi's car.
as far as using those guys is concerned, that's not really an option being in the UK - I'd get stung at customs and for postage on something so heavy, plus it's quite likely to get damaged in transit. it's also against the ethos of the project, i built the bottom end so I see little reason not to build the head. i know they did some great work on febi's car, but being a walking advert for them is not helpful for me as I can't pop down and have a chat with them being several thousand miles and an ocean away! i may email them and ask them for a quote and for the rate of their valve springs, and their guides etc though. i will also pop dbilas an email and ask them about their choice of rates with valve springs. given that they build group N and other highly modified m42s I expect they will be more upfront with their information.

I'm not sure what you are suggesting in your post when you say that febi's will flow as well if not better than an M44. are you suggesting that a standard M44 head flows better than the  standard M42 (as well as being quieter and having less friction!)?

if you look at the S42, euro S50b30, euro S50b32, S54 you'll see that they run the same bore spacing and similar piston size to me yet run bigger inlet valves. if you compare our inlet valve size to other 4 potters that make good power per litre, ones with similar piston dia too, our inlet valves are def on the small side. i agree about shrouding, and this is one of the reasons i'd like to see the underside of a euro s50 head with its bigger inlets. but if you look at the head on a car such as the s2000, whose head is supposed to be about as good as it gets, the inlet valves are closer together than on the M42 (fwiw they're also much bigger than an m42!). there is room for slightly larger inlet valves imo without too much shrouding.

as inlet valve area is so critical to power output, leaving the standard inlets in is not really an option to me, and having used so many euro S50 parts in my engine build, it makes sense to me to run inlet valves of the same diameter, or at least close to that diameter. otherwise that's just one more disadvantage we have against the 95bhp/litre euro s50b30 (others include solid lifters, infinitely variable vanos on the intake cam, longer stroke) not to mention the s50b32 and s54 which have even bigger inlet valves.

just consider cars that make really good bhp/litre and have near identical piston size to me - for a start peugeout mi16 head and s2000 both have bigger inlets not only than our heads but than an S50, yet the same piston size. imo leaving the standard inlet valves in is capping the power output, i want to run 75 odd bhp extra power over standard, and leaving the standard inlet valve size with such an increase in power sounds nonsensical. the midrange and part throttle power will also be improved with larger inlet valves.

i may well get my spare m42 head on a flowbench and see just how good it is at various lifts. I also have a friend who works for cosworth, so i may donate this head to him for messing with if i can get him interested! it does seem like a bit of a pointless exercise, you can see its limitations without a flowbench i think. an s50 head for comparison would be really helpful, i may see if i can buy a wrecked one.

as for the bottom end, that's not very helpful! fwiw i know my rods, pistons and crank will take the rpm i'm looking at, i'm more interested in these other mystical changes. i'm not sure that i'm up for altering the oilways unless i see good reason to do so, but if any changes have been made to the pump i'd like to hear about it.

i'm ultimately trying to get the best inlet port design and biggest inlet valves i can squeeze into the m42. if you look at m42 inlet ports, the radius seems much greater than heads such as an s2000 head or an s14 head etc, and the diameter likewise is very small indeed. the approx diameter of an m42 inlet port is 23mm, compared to 26mm for a standard s14 and up to 28mm on the evo2. the entry is also much smaller and the radius is very big. the length however is very similar to the s14. it looks like the m42 port needs a load of work to flow as well as i'd like. here's some pics:
M42


S14


notice how if you follow a straight line from the entry of the port you hit the top of the valve and the valve stem seal on the m42, if you do the same on the S14 you hit the back of the middle of the valve. the s14 port is also a fair bit bigger. i think the m42 has potential though as the angle of entry of the S14 port is pretty steep. if i could get the m42 to have a bigger dia and less of a radius while having a slightly less steep entry angle, i think it would have potential.

here's the underside of my spare, manky head:



apologies for the state of the head, but its just a spare for testing. the throat angle of the inlets seems pretty shallow.

as usual, comments, advice appreciated. if anyone on here has a lot of experience with flowing heads i'd love some opinions. must admit i'm not so interested in hearing about stuff that absolutely must be done to my engine but i cant be told about though!

2.1 200bhp, 175ft/lbs 318is
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tim_s

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« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2006, 05:16:52 AM »
Quote from: romkasponka
you can go for compression ratio 11/1 or higher. For that you nead to grind block ~0,9 mm, to mill on piston new dents for valves to have correct gap and to mill piston sides, because our head combustion chamber is not circular ant piston to head clearance will be to small.


i will be running 11:1 CR, i have a 2.1 m42. you'll also have to be careful about fitment of the front timing cases if you go milling the block by quite some way, as the lower front timing case will sit higher than the block.

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romkasponka

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« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2006, 06:06:56 AM »
I will make some pictures..

Between lower timing case and head is rubber gasket, so I think it's not a problem..
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF91&mospid=47256&btnr=11_0156&hg=11&fg=10
« Last Edit: June 05, 2006, 06:13:26 AM by romkasponka »
E30 318is M42
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tim_s

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« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2006, 06:41:26 AM »
yeah, but having done some decking to mine, the rubber gasket gets a bit pinched/squashed, and i wouldn't like to go as far as you suggest because leakage becomes a very real risk. furthermore i had to skim the upper front timing case too because the bolt holes won't line up otherwise, the rubber will not compress that much and the timing case will sit higher than the cyl head. the correct way to do it is to not deck the block very much, and skim the head and the front upper timing case at the same time, this way everything fits as it should. trust me, having done some engine work and decking etc, what you propose is not a very good idea really - well not the best way to do to it anyway.

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romkasponka

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« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2006, 06:44:44 AM »
ok, will see ;)

there is no way back..
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tim_s

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« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2006, 06:51:10 AM »
Quote from: romkasponka
ok, will see ;)
haha, well i wont say i told you so, but remember i have done this so know what im talking about. if you go ahead and do that, the cylinder head will squash and pinch the inner profile gasket, as the lower timing case will be proud of the block, and given the problems that our cars had with this gasket from the factory, this really is not a good idea. you'll then be exerting more force than you should against the cylinder head. that's before you consider that you'll have to skim the upper timing cover else it won't line up to the cylinder head. by all accounts a pretty dumb way to go, when you could jsut skim the head or buy custom pistons etc.
i imagine it would work, as my block does which has been decked (but not that far), but is just not a nice way to do it especially if going that far.

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romkasponka

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« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2006, 07:02:01 AM »
there is no way back..

so i'll try to find solution..
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tim_s

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« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2006, 07:15:40 AM »
Quote from: romkasponka
there is no way back..

so i'll try to find solution..

oh ok, if you skim this bit by the 0.9mm:



and skim the front timing cover for the cylinder head by 0.9mm, you'll be ok. just make sure its safe to skim that part of the cylinder head by 0.9mm
« Last Edit: June 05, 2006, 07:18:34 AM by tim_s »

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romkasponka

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« Reply #11 on: June 05, 2006, 07:19:09 AM »
ok, thanks for advice..

what about ignition with compresion ratio 11/1 and higher?
what about intake cam timing advance as i found http://bmwnut.blogspot.com/2006_04_09_bmwnut_archive.html

Adjust the cam timing - You know how on the E30 M3 you have to buy a $300 kit with adjustable cam sprockets to tune your cam timing? Not on the 318iS! The M42 is equipped with tunable cam sprockets from the factory. So pull your Cosmoline covered valve cover off and with the proper tools you can tweak your intake and exhaust cams up to 6 degrees +/- to provide more top end horsepower or more low end torque. See, you don’t have to blow a grand on a set of Schrick cams to make your M42’s cams a little hotter. The best setup is to adjust the intake cam to 5 degrees (advanced) and leave the exhaust cam alone. I would recommend having a shop do this work.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2006, 07:25:22 AM by romkasponka »
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tim_s

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« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2006, 08:13:01 AM »
so anyone have any info on removing the obstruction in the inlet port that the guide presents? that's currently probably my biggest concern as this must affect flow quite a bit. i take it febi's has something done about this with different guides etc?

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tim_s

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« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2006, 09:13:03 AM »
another bit of info, late m42 lifters are the same as m50 ones.

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sheepdog

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« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2006, 04:25:18 PM »
Quote from: tim_s
hi, thanks for the reply! i'm not running an AFM,  I'm running megasquirt, so that potential restriction is gone. fwiw when I had the 1.8 on the rollers I hooked up a perssure gauge to the intake to see if it was a restriction, as on the S14 there is some due to the AFM on WOT, but there isn't on a standard M42. not to say there wouldn't be now i have a much bigger capacity. i'd have although thought our intake manifold + throttle body may be problematic, but I'm going to be running my ITBs anyway.

as for febi's, its running m50 lifters, isnt it? the valve size is standard, and the valve stem dia is just the late m42 dia. febi said that little was done in terms of flowing to his head. as for the lower mass of the valvegear, that's the case with the later m42 valvegear, not just febi's car.
as far as using those guys is concerned, that's not really an option being in the UK - I'd get stung at customs and for postage on something so heavy, plus it's quite likely to get damaged in transit. it's also against the ethos of the project, i built the bottom end so I see little reason not to build the head. i know they did some great work on febi's car, but being a walking advert for them is not helpful for me as I can't pop down and have a chat with them being several thousand miles and an ocean away! i may email them and ask them for a quote and for the rate of their valve springs, and their guides etc though. i will also pop dbilas an email and ask them about their choice of rates with valve springs. given that they build group N and other highly modified m42s I expect they will be more upfront with their information.

I'm not sure what you are suggesting in your post when you say that febi's will flow as well if not better than an M44. are you suggesting that a standard M44 head flows better than the  standard M42 (as well as being quieter and having less friction!)?

if you look at the S42, euro S50b30, euro S50b32, S54 you'll see that they run the same bore spacing and similar piston size to me yet run bigger inlet valves. if you compare our inlet valve size to other 4 potters that make good power per litre, ones with similar piston dia too, our inlet valves are def on the small side. i agree about shrouding, and this is one of the reasons i'd like to see the underside of a euro s50 head with its bigger inlets. but if you look at the head on a car such as the s2000, whose head is supposed to be about as good as it gets, the inlet valves are closer together than on the M42 (fwiw they're also much bigger than an m42!). there is room for slightly larger inlet valves imo without too much shrouding.

as inlet valve area is so critical to power output, leaving the standard inlets in is not really an option to me, and having used so many euro S50 parts in my engine build, it makes sense to me to run inlet valves of the same diameter, or at least close to that diameter. otherwise that's just one more disadvantage we have against the 95bhp/litre euro s50b30 (others include solid lifters, infinitely variable vanos on the intake cam, longer stroke) not to mention the s50b32 and s54 which have even bigger inlet valves.

just consider cars that make really good bhp/litre and have near identical piston size to me - for a start peugeout mi16 head and s2000 both have bigger inlets not only than our heads but than an S50, yet the same piston size. imo leaving the standard inlet valves in is capping the power output, i want to run 75 odd bhp extra power over standard, and leaving the standard inlet valve size with such an increase in power sounds nonsensical. the midrange and part throttle power will also be improved with larger inlet valves.

i may well get my spare m42 head on a flowbench and see just how good it is at various lifts. I also have a friend who works for cosworth, so i may donate this head to him for messing with if i can get him interested! it does seem like a bit of a pointless exercise, you can see its limitations without a flowbench i think. an s50 head for comparison would be really helpful, i may see if i can buy a wrecked one.

as for the bottom end, that's not very helpful! fwiw i know my rods, pistons and crank will take the rpm i'm looking at, i'm more interested in these other mystical changes. i'm not sure that i'm up for altering the oilways unless i see good reason to do so, but if any changes have been made to the pump i'd like to hear about it.

i'm ultimately trying to get the best inlet port design and biggest inlet valves i can squeeze into the m42. if you look at m42 inlet ports, the radius seems much greater than heads such as an s2000 head or an s14 head etc, and the diameter likewise is very small indeed. the approx diameter of an m42 inlet port is 23mm, compared to 26mm for a standard s14 and up to 28mm on the evo2. the entry is also much smaller and the radius is very big. the length however is very similar to the s14. it looks like the m42 port needs a load of work to flow as well as i'd like. here's some pics:
M42


S14


notice how if you follow a straight line from the entry of the port you hit the top of the valve and the valve stem seal on the m42, if you do the same on the S14 you hit the back of the middle of the valve. the s14 port is also a fair bit bigger. i think the m42 has potential though as the angle of entry of the S14 port is pretty steep. if i could get the m42 to have a bigger dia and less of a radius while having a slightly less steep entry angle, i think it would have potential.

here's the underside of my spare, manky head:



apologies for the state of the head, but its just a spare for testing. the throat angle of the inlets seems pretty shallow.

as usual, comments, advice appreciated. if anyone on here has a lot of experience with flowing heads i'd love some opinions. must admit i'm not so interested in hearing about stuff that absolutely must be done to my engine but i cant be told about though!

When I said afm I meant the air flow meter/throttle body. As you said though, you are solving that issue. Your ITB's shoudl solve the intake question as well.

Bummer you are in England as far as Metric goes, though I am sure you guys have some decent engine guys over there as well.

I honestly do not think changing the head is going to get you much from the engine though. As long as you run the thinner valve stems, you will probably be fine. Breathing does not seem to be an issue on Febi's car.

Is there more power with changing the head, probably, but the question is weather or not it is worth the hassle.


I used to think our engines were pretty well maxxed out from the factory, and reading GRM (and others) will lead you to think that. I think we have a good motor, but BMw/M works just did not spend much time or effort on it. We seem capable of 100hp per liter (1.8 or 2.1), they just did not bother with trying to get it. I think the redline cutting off mid peak is a good indicator of this. They played conservative or stopped work since it was meant to be a lower cost engine.

If it were me, I would port/polish the head a bit, go smaller valve stems,  and leave it. Focus on the ITB's and maybe some on plug coil over packs. The main parts we have seem to be quite good. Beyond that seems more like a rabbit hole that never ends, but will not get you much. I am not convinced the head needs to be changed.
"When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that individual is crazy." --Dave Berry