Author Topic: m42 track build (Read 26114 times)

e30guydownunder · « **Reply #45 on:** October 20, 2008, 04:41:54 PM »

If you can look at a real m3 then i highly suggest you do and that you have a close look/measure and comparison with your non-m e30. The bootlid is a heap shorter than a non-m for starters. To use the M boot lid you would need the rear window, window trim, quarters and inner quarters, bootlid, hinges, possibly the rear light panel and rear lights(they have early lights remmeber), probably the bumper as well. I think its all getting a bit hard.

just some food for thought

HMS_Tim · « **Reply #46 on:** October 21, 2008, 07:45:09 AM »

Quote from: e30guydownunder;58966

If you can look at a real m3 then i highly suggest you do and that you have a close look/measure and comparison with your non-m e30. The bootlid is a heap shorter than a non-m for starters. To use the M boot lid you would need the rear window, window trim, quarters and inner quarters, bootlid, hinges, possibly the rear light panel and rear lights(they have early lights remmeber), probably the bumper as well. I think its all getting a bit hard.

just some food for thought

Thanks,

This is all easy. In theory. I can take all the surrounding trim off the parts car m3. The car bodies themselves are the same. The m3 trim is an add on to the factory unibody. It actually leaves the factory rear window opening in tact. I believe the rear window opening size is the same in either. If not, I will just cut a window out of lexan again. The trunk lid I have to use is an e30 m3 lid, but hollowed out to be lighter. I am going to pin it on the car so hinges are not needed. I want the m3 rear bumper, even if I do not do the m3 decklid. I have one that is in need of some cosmetic work. On the car right now is the stock 325 bumper with a lower trim lip. It does not fit right because of the wide fenders and is too heavy with all the stock mounts. Once i get the m3 bumper fixed I will come up with a lighter mount for it. Tail lights should be easy to come by if they are needed.

All this talk is making me want to do it right now!!:D

NEXT THREAD IDEA;
how to turn your e30 318 into an m3!
just kidding!

HMS_Tim · « **Reply #47 on:** October 21, 2008, 07:48:28 AM »

Quote from: romkasponka;58936

better views...

WOW! My car wouldn't have enough power to get that wing over 80!

It looks sweet though. That's basically similar to what I was thinking of in my head. It's really pretty simple once to have the right tools/ materials.

I want to drive that crazy looking car! It looks like a blast!:cool:

romkasponka · « **Reply #48 on:** October 21, 2008, 11:56:40 AM »

Quote from: HMS_Tim;59047

WOW! My car wouldn't have enough power to get that wing over 80!

It looks sweet though. That's basically similar to what I was thinking of in my head. It's really pretty simple once to have the right tools/ materials.

I want to drive that crazy looking car! It looks like a blast!:cool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tynCExHb9YI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqQ67goUezo&feature=related

about 600hp (on max boost), after winter will be more and with more aerodynamic aids

HMS_Tim · « **Reply #49 on:** November 25, 2008, 09:09:55 AM »

some more photos. I've been off for a while.

These are from my last event at NHMS. It was a skatey track with this car. Pretty much sideways on most corners. Either the car is loosening up or I am pushing it harder. I think it's both!

More to come over the winter.
Cheers.

Boosted E30 · « **Reply #50 on:** November 25, 2008, 06:46:22 PM »

what suspension set up did you use for the 5-lug because i am doing the same i have
e36 m3 front spindles e30 m3 rear hubs and bearings with e36 rotors etc. and i am going to do coilovers but im just wondering for which car to buy the coil overs for should i get e36 m3 set up will that work or Z3 set up because i know Z3 is e36 front and e30 rear. and would you recomend using m3 front control arms or can i get away with using the
e30 ones???

HMS_Tim · « **Reply #51 on:** November 26, 2008, 08:53:51 AM »

Quote from: Boosted E30;61685

what suspension set up did you use for the 5-lug because i am doing the same i have
e36 m3 front spindles e30 m3 rear hubs and bearings with e36 rotors etc. and i am going to do coilovers but im just wondering for which car to buy the coil overs for should i get e36 m3 set up will that work or Z3 set up because i know Z3 is e36 front and e30 rear. and would you recomend using m3 front control arms or can i get away with using the
e30 ones???

The coilovers will need to be for an e36. I used ones from a e36 325. When you get your upper caster/ camber plates make sure you get e30 specific plates. The mounting hole locations are different. I used ground controls and I am happy with the quality. I believe the lower control arms are the same either way. Steel is much stronger, but much heavier. You're going to want to get different lollipops to move the rear of the control arm outward towards the frame more. It will move the wheel more forward, giving it more caster.

Be careful because when I did the e36 conversion it moved the front wheel over an inch rearward. I have clearance issues with the 15" wheels I have now. If I go to a 17" I am going to have to cut out a fair amount of metal to make them fit.

Cool thing is you have the choice of using e30 style sway mounts that go to the control arm or e36 style to the strut housing. Still using the e30 "NON M" sway setup.

As far as z3 vs e36 vs e30 You can use z3 or e36 front setup. I believe everything is the same. The rear is the same for z3/ e30. You can't use the z3 swaybars because they won't fiit the e30 chassis. Also z3 brake lines and rear cv's are different too.

hmm, what else...

Let me know if you have any more questions.
Cheers

Boosted E30 · « **Reply #52 on:** November 26, 2008, 06:53:26 PM »

For the loli pops ( front control arm ) bushings could i just use urethane bushings that have an off center hole will that be sufficent to adjust caster? because i have all m3 brakes and i know that the smallest wheel you can fit is 17. As for the upper shock mounts i have no problem driling new holes if i have to because the kit im looking at comes with adjutable camber plates but i dont think they will let me mix and match parts.

HMS_Tim · « **Reply #53 on:** November 29, 2008, 10:41:38 AM »

Quote from: Boosted E30;61769

For the loli pops ( front control arm ) bushings could i just use urethane bushings that have an off center hole will that be sufficent to adjust caster? because i have all m3 brakes and i know that the smallest wheel you can fit is 17. As for the upper shock mounts i have no problem driling new holes if i have to because the kit im looking at comes with adjutable camber plates but i dont think they will let me mix and match parts.

I have the offsets in my car. As long as it's an offset it should work. Since you have to run 17's you will be cutting a fair amount of metal to get them to fit. With my 15's I can't turn lock to lock because it hits the inner fender well on the backside. I don't know how to get the wheel centered exactly in the wheel opening with the e36 swap. I don't think you can.

You could try redrilling the mounting holes in the strut mounts to fit the e36 plates. I almost did on mine. You'll have to cut the center hole larger get more adjustment anyway so I guess it's not that big of a deal as long as you make sure your new holes are properly aligned. I can't remember if the e36 plates I had fit flush in the strut mount?? I think they might have. I never bothered using them because they needed to be replaced.

It sucks, but you would be better off with the e30 mounts. WAY easier! imao.

Boosted E30 · « **Reply #54 on:** November 29, 2008, 02:42:29 PM »

ok but you also switched your subframe to an e36 one right?? so that could have somthing to do with why you cant center your front wheels. did you change your front control arms to or you used the e30 ones because from talkin to different ppl they say to use e36 m3 control arms to push the wheels forward. im not sure if this is true or not im just tryin to get as much info on it as i can before i start so i have everything i need and can do it in one shot hopfully

deekay · « **Reply #55 on:** November 30, 2008, 12:27:26 AM »

Quote from: HMS_Tim;61914

I don't know how to get the wheel centered exactly in the wheel opening with the e36 swap. I don't think you can.

i saw you got offset rear bushings for the control arms; have done a lot of research on this myself before dropping a pantload on my suspension, and everything i learned indicated you'd need BOTH offset CABs and the '97+ M3 control arms to get the front wheels back to center.

i still need to pick up tires, pads/rotors/lines, and shock tops before my setup is ready to go in, but i'm using the THR green "lollipops" and '97+ M3 arms (i don't think they ever made aluminum arms for this application). other than that and that i'm just using a spring/shock combo instead of coilovers, i have the same hardware; will let you know if that makes a difference for me.

i understand not wanting to use the steel arms for a track car, so i guess it'll be up to you whether you like the idea of trimming metal to fit 17s more or less than that.

Boosted E30 · « **Reply #56 on:** November 30, 2008, 06:50:24 PM »

definatly let me know what happenes with that because if the e36 m3 control arms do the trick then ill just buy those to.

HMS_Tim · « **Reply #57 on:** December 01, 2008, 07:47:20 AM »

I did have the e36 subframe in the car. However, I ended up using the e30 one because of the motor location, but the e36 subframe did have the same mounting position for the control arms. So that didn't effect the wheel position.

In all actuality steel arms are better in some ways. They are stronger and last longer. Aluminum arms should be changed every season or so depending on how much you use the car. They do weaken up and crack and then break.

I'm going to look into those control arms also...
If they work I might want...

deekay · « **Reply #58 on:** December 01, 2008, 11:27:05 AM »

yowch. i cannot see budgeting that much for a new set of control arms every year.

anyway, got the arms i'll be using from http://www.alloembmwparts.com/ - they were the only supplier that had a different part number for the 97+ M3 rather than just two kinds of e36 control arms, "aluminum" and "steel". my buddy back home in california is working on the car for me while i'm deployed, but if he manages to make progress before i come home on leave in two weeks i'll be sure to get pictures.

HMS_Tim · « **Reply #59 on:** December 01, 2008, 12:02:29 PM »

Quote from: deekay;62037

yowch. i cannot see budgeting that much for a new set of control arms every year.

anyway, got the arms i'll be using from http://www.alloembmwparts.com/ - they were the only supplier that had a different part number for the 97+ M3 rather than just two kinds of e36 control arms, "aluminum" and "steel". my buddy back home in california is working on the car for me while i'm deployed, but if he manages to make progress before i come home on leave in two weeks i'll be sure to get pictures.

When racing you spend money like it's going out of style! Tires, brakes, bushings, fluids, safety equipment and whatever breaks during the coarse of a day. Replacing the control arms as preventative measure can save your a$$ when on the track.

On the street I wouldn't bother changing aluminum ones unless you needed to.

I look forward to hearing how it comes out. If you get it aligned after they're installed, let me know what it has for caster/ camber numbers.