The mess under the intake

[docgoku]

Good catch, I never really checked the diagram when putting the heater hoses back!  I didn't trust myself so I have each hookup matching labels.
One tick and I'll update the diagram.

[docgoku]

Updated, with heater hoses in the right order.

[smbstyle]

More confirmation as to why anyone with an E30 should do this and then other little tasks as well.

What is the best procedure to clean that area of the lower intake manifold with the injectors still plugged in? Just spray with some carb cleaner?

[docgoku]

I used the typical carb cleaner, microfiber towels, wrapped around a brush.  Allowed me to get into those tight areas pretty well.
I didn't have a part washing bin or other cool toys.

[smbstyle]

Today, since I only get about 1-2 hours at a time, wife+child are kind enough to give me that much.   
I'm going to be cleaning and cleaning.....  Great thread btw!

Also any tips for cleaning that crud out of the intake ports without the crud falling down into the valves?

[docgoku]

That was tricky.  I didn't go too crazy on that area for the exact reason you are worried about.

Here is what I did, stuck/stuffed small microfiber towel in to the port.  Just to "seal/cover" it a bit.
Then tried to make sure all my wiping motions were pulling back outwards.  Leaving that small towel in there to protect the valve and catch any debris.

In my case it wasn't very hard to get that crud off, so that worked pretty well.  If you needed to put some force in there to clean...I'm sure there is a better way.

[2fysh]

Sorry to bump this ld thread.  New to the m42.

So I have read all 27 pages of this thread and there is a ton of info.  From what i understand is that the plumbing for the "mod" varies depending on the year of your m42.  First things first.  Is there anyway to tell what year of motor you have based on any numbers stamped on it?  I bought the motor from the PO and he said it came out of a 93 318is.  Not that i don't believe him but wanted to make sure before i start ordering parts to avoid confusion. 

As far as the "mess under the intake", I need some clarification if anyone can help.  TIA.  Here's what i need to know:

If I understand correctly the hose labeled "H" (pic 1)can be routed to the nipple on the block where hose "T" is attached (pic 2).

The VC hose can be routed to the underside of the TB (pic 3 & 4)

[2fysh]

Sorry to double post.  It would only let me post 4 pics at a time.

Here's my real concern.  The nipple on the throttle body is where the hose from the plastic coolant tube was attached (pic 1 in the previous post labeled "H").  What goes here now? (pic 1)

There appears to be two nipples on the Throttle body heater plate (assuming this is the little block between the throttle body and the intake).  One has a hose that is attached to the TB opposite the nipple (referenced in pic 1).  This short hose can be seen in the pic of the ICV (pic 2)  If the Heater plate is removed then do these two nipples get plugged? 

What is the proper routing of hoses for the ICV (pic 2)?

Finally what attaches to the nipple that the hose from the block nipple attached to?  I assume nothing if this is in fact part of the TB Heater plate that gets removed (pic 3). 

[faffierwaffle]

First off thank you so much this is an amazing thread, docgoku that color coded diagram is PERFECT, shows every connection clearly (2fysh your throttle body connections are on there).

Instead of simply plugging the coolant line (which we now know to be completely safe right??!!) i want to plug it and put a temperature sensor there. I am doing a project involving arduino and DS18B20 sensors so grounding it like a temp sender is not needed. I plan to put a water temp sensor in the upper radiator hose but that wont get a true temp until the thermostat opens. Is the coolant in this tube circulating while the engine is warming up, giving me a more accurate engine temp.

Also what kind of plugs are you guys using just a generic 5/8 coolant cap?

[Jaredmac11]

I wanna give my $.02 about improving the MUTI, particularly with the ICV.

I found that the e36 intake boot has a good spot for the ICV air hose, so that'd be worth picking up.
E36 air hose from the ICV to the intake also works well. 13411739649
I repurposed a heater hose from the E36 as well for the boot to ICV air hose.  Just trimmed off the end. 64211387010

Finally I bolted the ICV directly to the intake. Not sure if this was done on the E30 already.

Im happy with the final result, seems to be very slim and all bolts directly to the M42.

[iwanttobecold]

Surprised that people are still posting on this 11 year old thread...

I've ordered all my parts and I will be doing the MUTI this weekend, along with replacing the fuel injector wiring harness (which had been chewed by some rodent). I've also got a new intake boot to throw on it, and I hope that all this will solve my idle/misfiring on acceleration mess.

[RotCowboy]

I will pile on to this very useful old thread.  I just did the MUTI on my 91 vert (182k miles) and will throw in a photo. 

The plastic water pipe manifold on the side of the engine that I replaced was the most difficult part.  It took 3 tries to get it to seal and hold pressure.  I used the Uro version which may have contributed to the difficulty.  I added Toyota FIPG to the seal to finally get it to work and used a crowbar to apply gentle pressure.  I used a piece of blue silicone heater hose that was in-between the sizes of the manifold nipple and the engine block outlet.  I had to really stretch it over the manifold and used a small piece of leftover hose inside the engine end and FIPG to seal the end (I believe I had a leak here before this fix).  I also left the metal heater plates in place to keep the spacing the same and not put stretching pressure on the intake boot.

I recommend that you get a hold of a cooling system pressure tester (many auto parts stores rent these).  When I tested my system after final assembly (at 15psi) I found a leak from an improperly installed clamp on a hose going into the heater core.

I now have all the coolant hoses replaced (had to buy actual replacement hoses since they all have unique bends to them).   Also there is a recall fix, where they placed a safety valve on the hose from the engine and the heater core (sometime in the early 90s) this requires you to cut two of your new hoses in half to splice this device into it. I replaced all the rubber fuel lines too even though they looked fine.  I also while I had the intake off changed my injectors out to 4 pintle disk injectors Bosch Gen 3 (0 280 155 746).  These were exact drop in replacement and as I read on the forums they work perfectly.  My old ones were some of the crustiest parts I have pulled off the car.  I also added a oil catch can in-betwixt the valve cover PCV and the nipple on the bottom of the throttle body.  I am curious to see what that thing catches.  As a final I painted up the big aluminum parts since I had them off.

Hope this helps someone else with this job.  It was very easy compared to doing the timing case swap.  The colored diagram on here was printed and taped to my windshield during this entire project; that was great.

I will attach the photo of my silicone bypass hose and the almost finished product that shows my routing and location of my oil catch can (that it may help others).

[Slimbim]

Perhaps nobody will ever read this but for what its worth i did this MUTI delete on my first e30 318is, and on my current one (going for sale next year) i will be replacing everything as from the factory with new parts. Installing some hokey hoses and not having it fit factory, as well as zero benefit from deleting the TB heater plate, is not worth it to me. However, if you wanna do it, its easy when youre in there

[Slimbim]

Perhaps nobody will ever read this but for what its worth i did this MUTI delete on my first e30 318is, and on my current one (going for sale next year) i will be replacing everything as from the factory with new parts. Installing some hokey hoses and not having it fit factory, as well as zero benefit from deleting the TB heater plate, is not worth it to me. However, if you wanna do it, its easy when youre in there

Im just redoing this again and im going full oem parts with the system intact. I cannot get the fricken upper manifold off for some reason. And theres no guidance except a dead link. Gonna try again tomorrow. My last 318is i could take it all down in 10 mins i did it so many times. Dont know why im struggling this time