e46 into e30 Steering Rack Swap

[Slowered318]

I could use a little input from anyone who has put e36/e46 steering racks on an e30.

I'm just about to button this one up and get my alignment done but two things are holding me back.

First I can't decide the position for the rack spacers above or below the rack. A friend who tracks one of these with an e36 rack suggested I put them below to reduce bump steer. But with the suspension at ride height the tie rods look perfectly strait on my car with the spacer on top. My dad suggested equal size spacers on top and bottom, he might be onto something?

Secondly I'm having some difficulty bleeding the air out of the rack. I've followed the standard procedure but still sounds like the bottom of a milkshake when I turn the wheel. Does anyone know of a high pressure hose that will fit and not create a huge loop over the engine mount, I feel like air could be trapped in there but it's shaped the same as the original. Haven't sat the car on the ground yet, I don't feel the power steering functioning at all. Also the e46 came with a check valve on the neck of the steering rack, could that be an issue?

Here it is so far, all brand new parts except the rack and pump.

[Slowered318]

Parts list for inquiring minds.

E46 330i ZHP steering rack (gold tag #712)
Complete E36 tie rod assembly
Tie rod securing plate with shim #32111140464
Return hose/cooler #32411141714 (not installed in pictures)
E30 high pressure hose #32411141426
E30 supply hose #32411133400
Steering joint #32311157214
Dungeon Motorsport (non airbag) spacer kit.
Redline D4 ATF

[DesktopDave]

Wish I had an answer for you (I haven't installed an updated rack yet). I was planning on putting the spacers above the rack just because I figured it'd be easier to install them there.

I'll ask my buddy about bump steer, but I'm sure he'd want to know more about the car first. It took him a long time and a lot of pricey equipment to minimize bump steering for a dirt track racing team.

[MLM]

I do not have an answer for you but some additional information which came to my attention recently.

The e46 rack does not have an external air bypass(e36/E30) which allows the air within the rubber boots to pass from one side to the ofther as lock to lock is wound on.  This will cause the boots to baloon and suck in effecting steering feel.

E46 racks vent internally and have a groove cut through the inner tie rod inner threads to allow air to pass through the center of the rack itself. Fixes are to use the e46 inner, cut grooves in your e36 inner on a mill or adapt an external bypass with threaded barbs. YOu could cut a hole in the boot but risk sucking in moisture,dust etc.

As for the spacers i would experiment, its easy to change and you can tune to what you like.
 

[benz-tech]

I did a write-up on R3v a while back about an E36 install but I don't know how similar the two are.  Basically install the spacers on the top of the rack. It will lower the bump steer. Here's the thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=253178&highlight=Bump+steer

[Slowered318]

Wish I had an answer for you (I haven't installed an updated rack yet). I was planning on putting the spacers above the rack just because I figured it'd be easier to install them there.

I'll ask my buddy about bump steer, but I'm sure he'd want to know more about the car first. It took him a long time and a lot of pricey equipment to minimize bump steering for a dirt track racing team.

What steering rack are you going with?

I would be curious to hear what your buddy has to say. Keep in mind that his suspension setup might be quite different. Right now I'm running IE stage 3 springs, offset CA bushings, front and rear camber correction. Don't have the exact numbers until I do my alignment, I've always set up the car with strings and eyes with good results.

[Slowered318]

I do not have an answer for you but some additional information which came to my attention recently.

The e46 rack does not have an external air bypass(e36/E30) which allows the air within the rubber boots to pass from one side to the ofther as lock to lock is wound on.  This will cause the boots to baloon and suck in effecting steering feel.

E46 racks vent internally and have a groove cut through the inner tie rod inner threads to allow air to pass through the center of the rack itself. Fixes are to use the e46 inner, cut grooves in your e36 inner on a mill or adapt an external bypass with threaded barbs. YOu could cut a hole in the boot but risk sucking in moisture,dust etc.

As for the spacers i would experiment, its easy to change and you can tune to what you like.

If the e46 rack has an internal air bypass then why would I need to fabricate an external one like on the original rack? Either way I'll keep an eye on the boots after I clamp them up, if it's an issue it shouldn't be hard to thread a barb fitting on each side and connect with a plastic tube. I don't recall this grove you described, I have both e36 and e46 tie rods on the bench at the moment.

[Slowered318]

I did a write-up on R3v a while back about an E36 install but I don't know how similar the two are.  Basically install the spacers on the top of the rack. It will lower the bump steer. Here's the thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=253178&highlight=Bump+steer

Thank you, I had read that thread already but lost the link. When I compare the e46 rack and the e30 rack I noticed the relation to the mounting bracket is different. If you were to bolt the e30 rack down on a bench the center line would sit about 8 or 10 mm above where the e46 rack sits. I could make a more accurate measurement but this is what got me thinking to put spacers one top and bottom. Also that would allow a little more ground clearance but the stability of the car is my main concern.

[MLM]

I do not have an answer for you but some additional information which came to my attention recently.

The e46 rack does not have an external air bypass(e36/E30) which allows the air within the rubber boots to pass from one side to the ofther as lock to lock is wound on.  This will cause the boots to baloon and suck in effecting steering feel.

E46 racks vent internally and have a groove cut through the inner tie rod inner threads to allow air to pass through the center of the rack itself. Fixes are to use the e46 inner, cut grooves in your e36 inner on a mill or adapt an external bypass with threaded barbs. YOu could cut a hole in the boot but risk sucking in moisture,dust etc.

As for the spacers i would experiment, its easy to change and you can tune to what you like.

If the e46 rack has an internal air bypass then why would I need to fabricate an external one like on the original rack? Either way I'll keep an eye on the boots after I clamp them up, if it's an issue it shouldn't be hard to thread a barb fitting on each side and connect with a plastic tube. I don't recall this grove you described, I have both e36 and e46 tie rods on the bench at the moment.

Groove visible in threads which engage rack here http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/ES10744/

E36 inners in your part list do not have this groove blocking air flow for internal bypass.

As mentioned not major but a detail that could be missed.

[Slowered318]

Groove visible in threads which engage rack here http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/ES10744/

E36 inners in your part list do not have this groove blocking air flow for internal bypass.

As mentioned not major but a detail that could be missed.

Interesting, I didn't notice that! I'll attempt to machine out at least one groove or just reuse the e46 inner tie rods. It's a far better design, unknowingly the e30 bypass tube fell off one end at some point in the last 12 years. I still need to remove them to place the spacer locking plate. The e46 rack moves the wheels about 6mm more each way.

[DanOKC]

I'm about to finish up my rack swap, using an E36 rack, into a 91 318is with airbag. Last nite I remove the same part you don't have pics of installed, the
32411141714  metal cooler.  I decided to ditch the cooler, simply because I a had fought it too long trying to get the banjo bolt fitting on the end bent properly to fit, and realized even if I got it bent perfect, I'd still have to remove the cooler if I ever needed to drop the oil pan, as it blocks access to oil pan bolts above it.   My cooler line was included on the used rack I got, was already dinged in a few places, so I wasn't tossing new away.  I still need to replace that return line the cooler was with a fitting & a hose, trying to figure out which part # is right.

[Slowered318]

I'm about to finish up my rack swap, using an E36 rack, into a 91 318is with airbag. Last nite I remove the same part you don't have pics of installed, the
32411141714  metal cooler.  I decided to ditch the cooler, simply because I a had fought it too long trying to get the banjo bolt fitting on the end bent properly to fit, and realized even if I got it bent perfect, I'd still have to remove the cooler if I ever needed to drop the oil pan, as it blocks access to oil pan bolts above it.   My cooler line was included on the used rack I got, was already dinged in a few places, so I wasn't tossing new away.  I still need to replace that return line the cooler was with a fitting & a hose, trying to figure out which part # is right.

Strange that you are having trouble fitting an e36 oil cooler to an e36 steering rack, I wonder if l will run into the same problem putting one on e46 rack. Guess I'll find out Tuesday when the parts arrive. I'm not sure if a perfect part exists for the return line, I struggled to fit an e30 return line because the bends are setup for the opposite side of rack. I made it fit nicely and you're welcome to have it if I'm able to install the "cooler" return line. You can see in my pictures how the e30 return line hugs around the charcoal canister and I'm very curious if you or anyone else finds a better option? Whats pushing me towards the "cooler" is that the new high pressure line lacks the coil my original hose had for cooling.

[DanOKC]

It fit the rack fine where the 2 6mm bolts hold it to the rack, but it was bent a bit & had a few restrictions in the line where it had been dinged. I bought the rack from a local who had pulled it with little regard for storing it. So when I got it, the banjo bolt was off that end & I didn't think much about it. When I was trying to get the banjo bolt in last nite, it wouldn't line up right & that end of the cooler has a big U bend sorta, then a tiny bend near the fitting. I got close, but decided to ditch it. I still have the small cooling coil on the other line, so I'm not worried about cooling. I had the cooler installed on the rack before I installed the rack, the steering shaft installed to the coupler & had the rack bolted in with washers on top. It was then I started the fight of Bend this end near this U bend just 5 degrees this way & 3 degrees that way. It was off by a minor amount. Then I looked, thought about how it blocks acccess to M42 upper oil pan bolts, thought about the dings that almost crimped the line to 1/2 it's size as restrictions in a few spots.  Decided right then, too much fight, it wasn't in good shape to start with, it's also so close to the subframe, I was thinking this is possible rub or vibration issue if motor mounts get weak or something.

Thanks for the offer on the line, if you decide to not use it can you post a pic ? I'll gladly pay if this is a new part or pay shipping if it's used & I can use it. 

[Slowered318]

I'll know later this week if the cooler pipe fits without issues involving the subframe and ground clearance. I also want to avoid any rubbing either but my motor mounts are brand new. Being around some e30 motor swaps and big block muscle cars, you would be amazed at how close things can be without any issues.

The return pipe is used only in the fact I had to bend it and tested it out on the car. The part cost about $30 so if I don't need it, I would gladly ship at your expense.

[DanOKC]

Great, I'm in no hurry, although it's taken forever for me to get this swap done, I have to get a new battery & new tires for the E30 before I can really assess the new rack.  My daily is my E28, but as soon as the E30 is back on the road, I'll get to address a few issues on the E28 I've been putting off.