Author Topic: M42 Rebuild (Read 30811 times)

dude8383 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 13, 2010, 07:56:07 PM »

Quote from: KenCopperwheat;89399

I'll get some videos up after the break-in when I can really open it up. Idles like a dream though

Ah, you're doing the gentle break-in then ey?

KenC · « **Reply #31 on:** March 14, 2010, 01:10:33 AM »

Quote from: ///m42 sport;89404

Hey how did you polish the engine parts? just with a wire wheel?

High temp primer + high temp silver paint.

KenC · « **Reply #32 on:** March 14, 2010, 01:12:25 AM »

Quote from: dude8383;89407

Ah, you're doing the gentle break-in then ey?

Well, not too gentle. It only has 100 miles on the bottom end thus far. I'm trying to do varying RPM loads (1500-4000) for about 400 miles before I really get on it.

Once I get it totally broken in, I'll definitely be taking some videos. It has a 13lb 323 flywheel and a Mark D chip, and no clutch fan, so it's pretty peppy.

dude8383 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 14, 2010, 02:53:30 PM »

Quote from: KenCopperwheat;89421

Well, not too gentle. It only has 100 miles on the bottom end thus far. I'm trying to do varying RPM loads (1500-4000) for about 400 miles before I really get on it.

Once I get it totally broken in, I'll definitely be taking some videos. It has a 13lb 323 flywheel and a Mark D chip, and no clutch fan, so it's pretty peppy.

I used to have the same setup, I loved it. I bet you're having a hard time not getting on the loud pedal!

Casey Belarde · « **Reply #34 on:** March 14, 2010, 03:52:54 PM »

where did you buy the light weight flywheel??

nice work by the way, I'm getting ready to take mine apart soon! should have done it this winter while I was slow in the shop lol we had a very mlid winter so I continued to drive it instead of storing it like past winters

KenC · « **Reply #35 on:** March 14, 2010, 03:55:23 PM »

Quote from: Casey Belarde;89468

where did you buy the light weight flywheel??

nice work by the way, I'm getting ready to take mine apart soon! should have done it this winter while I was slow in the shop lol we had a very mlid winter so I continued to drive it instead of storing it like past winters

I just found it locally. They're not too hard to come accross... usually $100-$150 depending on condition.

KenC · « **Reply #36 on:** March 15, 2010, 05:36:05 PM »

Rear main is leaking :-/.

We had some trouble getting it on. It kept folding over on itself. I'm guessing we damaged it during install.
The oil leaking is black, but the oil in the pan is super clean.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #37 on:** March 16, 2010, 05:51:10 AM »

Sorry to hear about the rear seal...still seems like you're 99% there. If you still have the lift I'll bet you can have that all back out in half the time.

Your posts inspired me to pick up a little high temp paint & RTV.

autox320 · « **Reply #38 on:** March 16, 2010, 09:33:36 AM »

Quote from: KenCopperwheat;89519

Rear main is leaking :-/.

I hate that and usually need a few motivation brews before wanting to tackling the job twice. Also had to go all the way back in for a new pivot pin once lol. The tip was busted off and I didn't notice till had it all buttoned up to road test. Yup all for a .60cent part!

Great thread, keep up the good work!!

KenC · « **Reply #39 on:** March 16, 2010, 09:49:44 AM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;89548

Sorry to hear about the rear seal...still seems like you're 99% there. If you still have the lift I'll bet you can have that all back out in half the time.

Your posts inspired me to pick up a little high temp paint & RTV.

Nice!

The thing runs like a dream right now. I'm going to put another 100-150mi on it before I tackle the rear main again because I'll need to change the oil again at that point anyhow.

KenC · « **Reply #40 on:** March 16, 2010, 01:26:48 PM »

Quote from: autox320;89553

I hate that and usually need a few motivation brews before wanting to tackling the job twice. Also had to go all the way back in for a new pivot pin once lol. The tip was busted off and I didn't notice till had it all buttoned up to road test. Yup all for a .60cent part!

Great thread, keep up the good work!!

I would have flipped if I just needed a pivot. Haha

enildeR · « **Reply #41 on:** March 16, 2010, 11:12:07 PM »

How much did the shop charge you?

Mine has around 253k on it, and it needs a rebuild. I'm looking to beef it up during the process, but I need to find a good machine shop first. Once I get a second car or motorcycle, I'll start working on it.

KenC · « **Reply #42 on:** March 17, 2010, 02:47:36 AM »

The block work was ~$200.

I'd HIGHLY recommend M&B Cylinder Heads. Brian does all of the block work for Horsepower Freaks, whose turbo M52s have been dyno'ed at over 1000hp.

flyinglizard · « **Reply #43 on:** March 17, 2010, 06:16:55 AM »

RE. Rear seal; Take a ball point pen and roll the seal on .
Just press the seal toward the crank gently and go around the crank with the pen. It "shoe horns" on. HTH.
MM

KenC · « **Reply #44 on:** March 17, 2010, 02:44:40 PM »

Quote from: flyinglizard;89604

RE. Rear seal; Take a ball point pen and roll the seal on .
Just press the seal toward the crank gently and go around the crank with the pen. It "shoe horns" on. HTH.
MM

I'm not sure if I know what you mean. The seal fits really tight around the crank. I don't see how I could get a pen or something in there.