Messages (Become)

That turbo is more designed for a snowmobile/atv/motorcycle engine. Its way too small for your engine. A GT25 frame turbo is the smallest I would consider, GT28 is more appropriate.

This kit will definitely be the go to kit when its done. It will be far better than the Dbilas kit! You won't ever get it perfect, but you actually did more than slap some ITBs on and connect them with a manifold so its already better than the current commercially available options.

Ramas site has lots of good information on it. I am confident he will produce a great product!

The M44 crank has the pickup on the counterweight between 3 & 4. All OBDII BMWs have it here as far as I know. This is not an issue though as the harmonic damper has the trigger wheel, and that fits all cranks. Just don't remove the trigger wheel on the crank as its part of the balance.

The M44 crank is a nice upgrade and its readily available so its cheap. Its the best budget crank IMO.

The rods are 140mm long and the GSR rods Ralph mentioned are good substitutes. They are slightly shorter at 137.9mm but there are a lot of cheap options due to the engines popularity. If you go this route make sure the rod length difference is taken into account when ordering pistons.

Truthfully, I would just use the factory rods. Just make sure the machinist makes sure the caps arent tweaked. Stock pistons are probably just fine too, but if you want to change compression or add bigger valve reliefs custom are the way to go.

Late M42 front cover is a must have upgrade for the chain deflector versus the idler gear that always seems to break. Make sure there is a provision for the crank position sensor (not sure if late M42 and M44 both have it). Replace the oil relief valve with the updated composite version.

IMO the single row timing chain is a good way to spend money for little gain. Its only worth it if you want every last little hp. Spend the money on a good set of cams. Thats what really is needed to make these motors shine from what I have seen. The VAC 269/269 cams seem to work well. Since you are outside the states you might be able to get catcams cams cheaper (VAC uses them and is the US distributor).

Just my thoughts for a budget performance motor. I dont have enough money to dream really big...I have to stay practical!

The ZF bolts right up. In the E36 chassis its a direct swap with the E36 ZF shifter arm, linkage, and driveline.

In the E30 chassis the shifter arm and linkage need to be extended and you need a custom length driveshaft.

Mine didn't have one

The M44 crank is a drop in replacement for the M42 since it was designed to be used with the same engine family. The M47 crank is from a diesel and must have custom machining to work properly.

The reason people go through the trouble to fit the M47 crank is it has a longer stroke. A longer stroke creates more low end torque. The M44 will have more toque than the M42 crank, but not as much as the M47.

Choose what crank you want to use first and that will help decise what pistons and rods you need.

The M47 cranks can be sourced from Europe, or bought new at the dealer. M44 cranks can be found almost free, M47 cranks cost a pretty penny.

Where are you at in Canada? If you are closer to Toronto I know some BMW people there who could recommend good machine shops and tuning solutions.

I know Astro is a popular machine shop in Toronto if that works for you.

It all depends on your goals and budget which is the best route to take. I find taking a budget minded approach and just doing it right puts plenty of smiles on your face.

A stroker based on M44 is a good budget option and is much cheaper than the M47 based stroker. Personally I would spend the majority on tuning and a nice set of cams.

If you have access to a lift then going in from the bottom is easy. If not the M42 is short and easy to drop in from the top. I usually do it with the trans attached as its easier to mate the two out of the car and the extra weight on the back of the engine helps it drop in easier due to the natural hanging angle.

For whatever reason BMW didnt find it necessary to identify which lead went to which coil. Your best bet is as mentioned....tracing back to the ecu.

Squish works the same for FI and atmo engines. This is a big part of the reason thicker head gaskets are frowned upon and not considered a proper solution. Ironically you are loweting CR but you are increasing the chance for detonation through improper combustion.

The reason really to lower the CR in a stock motor is due to the strength of the rods as they cannot handle major torque increases. Its not unusual to have a 10:1 turbo build, you just need to appropriately tune for it. Also this style build puts low end torque and response over peak power. Lots of people just want highway queens and high power dyno charts though


Due to financial costs, if you arent building the bottom end, a thicker gasket is a decent option if using pump petrol. Just realize what you are giving up, but like anything its a cost benefit analysis

Im not sure what the best option is for squish. A lot of it depends on how tight the bore is and if you expect the piston to rock in the bore.

When you have the pistons made, Im sure they will have a good answer that matches the specs they recommend for bore tolerance.

You can get the Comotec in any diameter as I understand it.

Squish is the distance from the combustion chamber in the head to the piston crown around the edges of the piston. If you look at the shape of a piston and the combustion chamber you will see the outer edge of the piston crown mimics the shape of the combustion chamber. If the piston is a flat top design, then its harder to notice so you have to look at the combustion chamber and will notice it is also flat at the edges.

The purpose of squish is to push the air/fuel mixture into the center of the chamber for better combustion. If the mixture is allowed to hang out in this area (too big of a squish distance) it tends to not combust, or combust late. Essentially when this happens you are wasting energy potential.

Squish is a function of proper/improved combustion and is for the most part irrelevant of compression ratio. This is why increasing squish distance to get a bogger bore can lead to less power as you may have less complete combustion.

As mentioned you can just use the M44 gasket. The other option is to get a Cometic gasket which they can make for any bore size. VAC Motorsports is a distributor for them.

Dave has great advice. I would contact BMWconnect and see what he can do. It is the mich cheaper and easier option!

Looks good to me!