Author Topic: DIY Fuel Pump Replacement (Read 36630 times)

jrw21 · « **on:** October 17, 2009, 10:51:03 PM »

1991 318is Fuel Pump Replacement. This DIY is based on the in tank fuel pump.

Tools Required for job:

Phillips Screwdriver
Flat Head Screwdriver
8mm Socket and driver
Dremel or die grinder
Soldering gun and wire
Nitrile or Latex gloves

Replacement fuel pump is the TRE 340. http://www.treperformance.com/FuelPumps/TRE255FuelPumps.html#340

Step 1:

Locate your fuel pump. Remove your rear seat. Under the seat/insulation you will find a panel with four phillips screws. Remove these screws to reveal your fuel pump assembly.

Step 2:

Remove the four nuts on the VDO fuel guage sender and pull the fuel sender out.

Step 3:

Turn the fuel pump assembly then pull out. This may require some "tweaking" to pull out.

Step 4:

Remove the old fuel pump.

Step 5:

Use your dremel or die grinder and grind the lower section of the fuel pump housing to fit the fuel pump for the new TRE 340.

Step 6:

Fit the new TRE 340 fuel pump into the housing, cut the supplied fuel hose to fit the space between the pump and housing. Zip tie the pump to the housing. Do not forget to attach the filter to the pump!

Step 7:

Solder the new fuel pump wire to the existing fuel pump housing plug.

Step 8:

Reassemble the fuel pump into the tank.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 18, 2009, 08:09:29 AM »

Good Job. I replaced mine over 10 years ago. And it was just like that.

Wizard · « **Reply #2 on:** November 25, 2009, 02:51:03 PM »

Great write up....Did this to mine a couple weeks ago...This article was a life saver..

Thanks...

Dan

LeanE30 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 27, 2009, 12:31:17 PM »

Quinn, So did you install this exact pump when you did it?

I'm thinking i'm gonna order this pump.. unless anyone has found something even better yet?

any other input or vital info you guys want to share about this option?

LeanE30 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 03, 2009, 01:21:46 PM »

tick-tock,... waiting on the USPS to bring me my pump.

fabe · « **Reply #5 on:** December 05, 2009, 02:08:52 AM »

I've used a fuel pump made for a Mitsubishi 1.8 Lancer... Currently running Walbro pump...

benji_e30 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 13, 2009, 04:17:49 PM »

Would this work for the early model (84-87) E30s? Since these models have a dual fuel pump set-up; one under the rear seat and one by the rear/left tire.

nickmpower · « **Reply #7 on:** December 13, 2009, 05:57:02 PM »

anyone know the stock LPH?

LeanE30 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 06, 2010, 05:26:40 PM »

jrw21, your writeup inspired, originally I posted this one without comments, only pictures, but other e30 people finally convinced me to add some captions.

But cheers! I hope this provides useful to others, i know yours did to me

NOTE: Submersible fuel line should be used if you question the supplied fuel line (submersible line truely is much tougher and more difficult to cut than the line that is provided with the pump.)

Quote

Fuel Pump DIY for $80 - Install in Pictures

Car: 1991 318i 4-door - my current "Lazarus" e30 project, M42. All later e30s with the single in-tank fuel pump would follow the same procedure. Don't cross wires or leave exposed wires within arching distances. I take no responsibility for your actions, this is mere documentation of the process that I performed on one of my own cars. I have used a Walbro HP255LPH before external and internal and have been very pleased with them, for this one however, i decided to try out the TRE340 unit, slightly less expensive than the Walbro, both are obviously superior to the OEM unit when you compare flow charts. I love the Walbros and am looking forward to seeing how well this TRE performs in comparison.

What is needed:
8mm wrench or socket
Set of screwdrivers
Wire cutters
Wire Strippers
Soldering iron/gun, Solder & basic skills
Dremel or mini grinder & basic skills
$80
Quote
~ 2 inches of submersible fuel line - check with your local marine motorsports shop, according to a couple other members, if you have to resort to getting it from an autoparts store such as NAPA, they sell it in 1-foot lengths for ~$20 a pop.

2 hours, probably less.

The rear seat of most e30s simply "pops" up, grab and lift, install is reverse.

Using a screw driver for leverage as shown, rotate the pump assembly counter-clockwise.

Pay attention to the manner in which you must move the pump to remove from the tank, this will speed the process of re-install.

Make note of positive and negative terminal positions, do not cross your wires while soldering.

LeanE30 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 06, 2010, 05:28:19 PM »

Part#2

Quote

Do not use the supplied fuel line. the supplied line is not designed to be submersed in fuel and is for external applications, such as on early high-arch e30s with the external main and in-tank supply.

The following picture displays the area from the base of the pump which must be removed so that the pump may seat low enough for the pick-up sock filter to attach.

...Bet you were thinking that my grinding job looked butchered huh?

Any Questions?

fabe · « **Reply #10 on:** February 06, 2010, 11:13:30 PM »

I've also replaced mine with the walbro fuel pump...

Rich86 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2010, 01:29:19 PM »

Nice write up. I ended up doing mine a couple years back on the side of the road. Wasn't too bad. I think I had replaced the whole unit though and not just the pump itself.

AtlBMW · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2010, 06:09:24 PM »

Wow, glad I found this. I just bought today, a '92 and there is a buzz/whine going from the gas tank area. I assume it is the pump. Thanks for the write up. What are the signs besides not functioning that is is time to change?

Chalino · « **Reply #13 on:** February 10, 2010, 06:37:44 PM »

I've read E30 fuel pumps hum/whine noticeably even when perfectly ok...mine does.

AtlBMW · « **Reply #14 on:** February 10, 2010, 07:31:54 PM »

Oh it IS noticeable, though intermittent.