Author Topic: Thermostat and Coolant Bleeding Issues (Read 35759 times)

monty23psk · « **Reply #75 on:** October 01, 2009, 07:56:53 PM »

Part of the e30 factory manual. I got it on PDF. I found it on the web on one of these forums. It use to be only, but that site died. Want a copy?

Well first thing is the coolant flush. Go to parts store to and buy it. They also have a radiator flush you can do. You CANT mix them. I think you can use the coolant flush in the radiator when you are flushing everything but the radiator flush can't go inside the block. So be careful.

First is read the directions on the coolant flush and follow. If you have questions, let me know. Then after you are finished, you will have to drain it to add the new coolant mix. In my essay post, I would flush it out with water to make sure you get all of it out. To do this you need a water hose and remove both upper hose on driver side and only one on passenger side from the driver side. Then flowing water in, turn engine on run it for a little while to flush out water. Also you dont have to remove hoses if you find the coolant drain plug on the block. Not sure where it is as I never looked for it, and it might not exists.

To do the radiator, you will need the rad out of the car and follow the directions. You can also take the radiator to a radiator shop to have it tested.

any questions?

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #76 on:** October 01, 2009, 08:02:15 PM »

do they sell the kits at Autozone where it attaches a garden hose to the radiator so you can force water through the system?

monty23psk · « **Reply #77 on:** October 01, 2009, 08:06:56 PM »

I have seen something like that, just not sure who carrys it, either autozone, napa, something like that. Also this was only for the radiator. For the engine, you just pour it in. Also if you call around, you might be able to have your radiator cleane and checked out for a low price. Better than doing it yourself and buying a new one. I remember when I was starting to overheat, I did everything and since I just finished rebuilding the engine, I didnt want to put the radiator in without knowing. When they checked it, it was toast. The water would flow through it just fine, but all the crap from inside that kept coming out. You would get hands full of corrosion bits.

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #78 on:** October 01, 2009, 08:20:10 PM »

hmmm.... i will definitely need to get my radiator checked, because if that was the problem the whole time, i won't hesitate to drop $160 for a new rad and have the problem fixed.

I will call around tomorrow, and of course update this thread.

monty23psk · « **Reply #79 on:** October 01, 2009, 08:27:52 PM »

Keep us posted.

rx82000 · « **Reply #80 on:** October 01, 2009, 10:42:20 PM »

Whats your part# on your thermostat?

My needle goes a little past half. I bleed the system and all but I can never get it below half.

I dug up the previous owner's record and found out that the thermostat that is in my car is a 92 degree celius (part # 11537511083)

Car should have an 88 degree celius thremostat (part #11537511580)

monty23psk · « **Reply #81 on:** October 02, 2009, 08:58:31 AM »

^ that is correct, you need the 88 degree version.

monty23psk · « **Reply #82 on:** October 02, 2009, 09:01:30 AM »

With my parts company on the side, I can get you the Behr version for $25 shipped to you iamcreepingdeath (sorry dont know your name). This is the 88 degree version.

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #83 on:** October 02, 2009, 01:13:03 PM »

I found a 75 degree version on bmaparts.com for $30, but at the moment i am about to take my radiator to the shop to be tested. I will update when i get back.

monty23psk · « **Reply #84 on:** October 02, 2009, 02:23:13 PM »

Gool luck.

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #85 on:** October 02, 2009, 08:07:32 PM »

Ok i brought the radiator to the place, and the dude stuck it in a closet like thing, shoved the end of a huge water blaster in the exit end of the radiator and blasted like 5,000 psi of water through the radiator. He said there was some gunk in it, and that he blasted it out, and to see if it works i should try it.

So i went home and re-installed it, and keep in mind the car still does not have a thermostat in it. So it warmed up (slowly) and lo and behold the radiator got warm and the lower coolant hose got warm. So i went for a drive, and the temp pretty much stayed below the 1/4 mark, but when i got back the lower coolant hose was stone cold again. No idea why.

So i think i am going to order the 75 degree t-stat and install it and see what happens.

monty23psk · « **Reply #86 on:** October 02, 2009, 09:26:18 PM »

yup, thats the radiator tank cleaner. If your temp is at the quarter mark the coolant might actually might not be hot enough. Also what was the outside temp?

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #87 on:** October 03, 2009, 12:33:15 AM »

outside temp like 50. Also i forgot to mention: Before the drive, when i let the car heat up at an idle, i also had the electric fan turned off (i deleted the mechanical fan and did the Volvo fan swap) so there was no airflow across the radiator, and the radiator got hot, but i turned the fan on and went for a drive, and the needle went down to below 1/4 and the radiator got cold.

So i ordered that 75 deg t-stat, and when i get it, i will install it and see what happens. I will update here of course.

johnwoo · « **Reply #88 on:** October 03, 2009, 12:47:14 AM »

whats the pn for the 75 degree t stat. i would like to put that in cuz i have the 88

qualicas · « **Reply #89 on:** October 03, 2009, 01:38:46 AM »

How old is the rad? If it is the original one you might want to install a new one because it is just a matter of time before it goes. The problem with the cooling system on these cars is that it is a parallel circuit. The pump pumps through the engine and at the same time through the rad. If the rad is plugged all the flow goes through the engine and none through the rad. Other systems are just one flow path so the water would get forced through the rad until it is really plugged.