Author Topic: Thermostat and Coolant Bleeding Issues (Read 35658 times)

monty23psk · « **Reply #15 on:** September 11, 2009, 10:50:50 AM »

I can try to help you. The needle should always been left of noon. I have all the stock components and no fan clutch. I did install a new electric fan, but on the other side of the radiator, in front of the ac condenser. Using the aux fan system, it will turn on when it is suppose to and cool the engine.

Firts thing is to make sure your coolant sensor it correct or just get a new one. Not too expensive. Then you need to make sure you are getting coolant following correctly.

Once you check the sensor, you can then look at the flow issue. Also the bleeding process is off from what I read. The incline is correct, but the cap should always stay off, and only the bleed screw touched.

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #16 on:** September 11, 2009, 02:48:24 PM »

Quote from: monty23psk;78297

I can try to help you. The needle should always been left of noon. I have all the stock components and no fan clutch. I did install a new electric fan, but on the other side of the radiator, in front of the ac condenser. Using the aux fan system, it will turn on when it is suppose to and cool the engine.

Firts thing is to make sure your coolant sensor it correct or just get a new one. Not too expensive. Then you need to make sure you are getting coolant following correctly.

Once you check the sensor, you can then look at the flow issue. Also the bleeding process is off from what I read. The incline is correct, but the cap should always stay off, and only the bleed screw touched.

so what you are saying is that the whole bleeding process is carried out with the coolant cap off?

and where do i get a temp sensor? i couldn't find one on Pelican Parts.

Also, the coolant appears foamy now after taking a long trip. And during the trip, there were two times when my temp gauge bounced way into the red, which would appear to be an air bubble, but only coolant comes out of the bleeder valve...

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #17 on:** September 11, 2009, 05:17:36 PM »

ok i took my other brand new T-stat, drilled an air bleeder hole in it, and installed it. Same thing happening, no change at all, car runs at 3/4 temp, and the lower coolant hose stays stone cold for a long time and then finally heats up after the temp has been at 3/4 for some time.

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #18 on:** September 11, 2009, 08:07:30 PM »

so i read the article on coolant flushing on Pelican Parts, and it seems that tap water is bad, and Red Line water wetter is good.

So i drained all my coolant from both the rad and the engine block, and re filled it with fresh 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, and a bottle of water wetter.

So now the temp gauge doesn't bounce anymore which is good, but the temp gauge reads at the same spot: between 1/2 and 3/4. This was quite perplexing.

So i decided to determine how hot the coolant really was, so with the car running at full heat (3/4 temp gauge) i stuck a meat thermometer in the reservoir, and sure enough, it read exactly at 90 degrees C. Since the T-stat is 88 degree, then it would make sense that the hot coolant coming into the reservoir would be a little hotter, as the thermostat sits where the lower (cooler) rad hose empties into the engine.

So what do you guys make of this? why would the temp gauge be reading at 3/4??

monty23psk · « **Reply #19 on:** September 11, 2009, 09:38:04 PM »

From your last post, the guage itself or sensor could be bad. Only way to check is to test sensor. You just need to have the values to compare the resistance according to the temp reading. I haven't done this on my car, but figure there is a way. Just might be in the Bentley or some manual.

Good on using the coolant and distilled water. Only way to go. To take it up a notch, the coolant used also matters, but for longevity of engine, not cooling properties.

Once the t-stat opens, hot coolant should flow through the only hose on the passenger side of the car. Is this happening?

How is your fan clutch?

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #20 on:** September 11, 2009, 10:12:02 PM »

yeah the hose on the pass side of the car (the lower hose) doesnt get warm for a long time, until the temp gauge reaches the 3/4 mark. so that means the T-stat must onlt be opening when the temp gauge is at the 3/4 mark.

Oh and i don't have a fan clutch, i am running and elecric Volvo puller fan, it kicks way more ass than the stock mechanical fan.

monty23psk · « **Reply #21 on:** September 11, 2009, 11:00:39 PM »

that is good. So looks like you just have a bad sensor or the gauge is messed up. I have heard that the nut behind the gauge can get loose and cause a bad contact, but you would have to remove cluster to check. Also the ground strap from the valve cover to body if the car has one, can be another thing to look at.

the temp sensor is part # 13621709966. Pelican has 2 options for under $20....http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=13621709966&I1.x=18&I1.y=7&FILTER_TECH=ON&FILTER_SUPP=ON&FILTER_ACCE=ON&FILTER_CARE=ON&FILTER_STUF=ON&FILTER_PERF=ON&FILTER_MISC=ON&FILTER_GADG=ON&FILTER_TOOL=ON&FILTER_ABMW=ON&FILTER_BE21=ON&FILTER_BE30=ON&FILTER_BE36=ON&FILTER_BE46=ON&FILTER_BE12=ON&FILTER_BE28=ON&FILTER_BE34=ON&FILTER_BE39=ON&FILTER_BE7S=ON&FILTER_BEZ3=ON&FILTER_BE68=ON&FILTER_BE02=ON&FILTER_BEMI=ON&FILTER_BEX5=ON&FILTER_BMWM=ON

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #22 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:37:34 AM »

^^ awesome thanks!! i am also thinking of getting a cheap universal temp sensor kit from like autozone that actually has the degrees C written on the gauge and wiring that in...

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #23 on:** September 12, 2009, 01:10:27 PM »

i ordered a new water temp sender unit from Pelican, so i'll update this thread when i install it!

monty23psk · « **Reply #24 on:** September 12, 2009, 04:43:23 PM »

Great and yes, let us know.

johnwoo · « **Reply #25 on:** September 14, 2009, 03:14:02 PM »

id like to know also. mine does the exact same thing. new radiator, water pump, t stat. bled it forever.

im thinking its a combo of my gauge and temp sender as my needle bounces.
where is the temp sender unit located? id like to switch that out.

johnwoo · « **Reply #26 on:** September 14, 2009, 06:12:29 PM »

anyone have a diagram or could tell me where the temp sender is? i think mine is faulty and giving me an elevated temp.

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #27 on:** September 14, 2009, 06:55:48 PM »

i have no idea where it is, i am just going to try to find it. I imagine its in the engine block somewhere, maybe on the intake side.

monty23psk · « **Reply #28 on:** September 15, 2009, 12:01:21 AM »

It is on the head under the intake. There are 2 plugs, one is oil pressure, the other coolant temp.

It is one of the 2 in the pink circle...

johnwoo · « **Reply #29 on:** September 15, 2009, 01:16:38 AM »

Quote from: monty23psk;78447

It is on the head under the intake. There are 2 plugs, one is oil pressure, the other coolant temp.

It is one of the 2 in the pink circle...

thanks. i wonder which one? anyway to figure out?