My mechanic says my m42 is not worth fixing at 160k miles

[Mbryce42]

So i've been having an idle issue for the last couple months that eventually caused my car to not idle at stoplights and I have to keep my foot on the gas at lights and when i'm stopped. I had thought it was a leak in the throttle body gasket and replaced that, no luck, I replaced the main relay and cleaned the ICV, no luck, and before this I had taken out the intake and looked at all the hoses without  finding a vacumm leak. So I finnaly allow a mechanic to touch my car and he ran compression checks in the cylinders that passed, but he said the car is not creating any vacumm and he came to the conclusion that the timing is off whether it is from a chipped tooth or if the chain just skipped. It still runs fine when its over 2k rpms and is warmed up.  My friend who worked as a BMW mechanic for a little while and has been with me through my headgasket change about two years ago and knows everything about my car doesnt believe that he can know its off timing and when I asked if the mechanic could prove it to me, he said it would be to exspensive and not worth it to fix. I'm debating on ripping it apart myself and checking the timing, giving up on it and parting it out, giving up on it and selling it whole or any other suggestions I get.  So I guess what i'm asking is what do yall think I should do to spend the least amount of money and come out of this with the best car. I have a 91 318is with 15in BBS's, TMS performance chip, bilstein sports, H and R race springs, I think it has a stage 1 clutch and new flywheel. Recently had a new waterpump, thermostat put in.

[Ramblin MAn]

First off, fire Jimbob. Second, learn to be your own mechanic. Taking off the valve cover to survey the cam sprockets is hardly "ripping it apart". I was going to pull mine just to paint it.

Next spend a little money, a LITTLE money and buy yourself four things. A vacuum/boost guage, a fuel pressure guage, a mighty vac, and a cheap 6 dollar multi meter. Go to Harbor Freight and/or shop around and you can get all four for around 50 bucks if you just get stuff that works.

Now test your fuel pressure.(fuel pressure guage) Test your vacuum. (vacuum boost guage) Test your fuel pressure regulator to see if it holds vacuum. (mighty vac) See for yourself. You probably already know what you should be seeing. Not knowing is what's killing you. Use the multi meter to check your TPS and the wiring.

I just bought my 91 IS with 157k miles. Man, it's just broken in. Motronic means "no margin for error" in German (just kidding). You have a bad sensor or air getting in unmetered or your AFM is bad. Everything is checkable or replaceable.

[roundel318]

Ive got 280,000 miles with an original motor and a timing chain tensioner being the "big ticket item" replaced on my engine.
Take Ramblin's suggestions on the tools and dig in!

[bmwman91]

160k is NOTHING on these motors.  Unless the timing chain assembly was badly neglected, or the upper oil pan bolts have worked themselves out (CHECK THEM!  drain the oil & pull the lower pan to check) there won't be any need for major repairs.

[jrobie79]

just rolled over to 289,000 miles, 160 is very young for these tanks

[///m42 sport]

I bought mine at 180k.  odometer broke at 260k.  now closer to 300k.  No major mechanical probs since I've owned it.  Of course I didn't skimp on maintenance either.

[flyguy91318]

My first 91  had 240,000 on when I sold it and the kid is still driving it. And the one I have now had 160,000 on when I bought and now have over 171,000 and I bought the car in January. other than needing some new plugs and a fuel filter it still runs like a top

[tjts1]

Read the thread in my signature. Good luck.

[2002Harv]

Yea, FIRE that "mechanic" He knows nothing or just simply doesn't want to work on your car. CARS DON'T "JUMP TIME". Red necks have said this for years. I have never seen any car jump time. Now you could have a bad crank angle sensor but I doubt it as the motor still kinda runs..

From here on my computer it sounds like vacuum leaks.

John

[ak96ss]

No, you know, he's probably right.

Tell you what, I'll give you $50 for the whole car. OK, make it $75, as I am feeling generous. Wadda ya say?

[quinn11m20]

Dude! I just put a Split Second Mass Air Conversion on my 91 318is. I have 251k. SHe runs like a top. SInce I bought her over 10 years ago, I have only needed to replace the radiator and the alternator. Of course I have changed the plugs and fuel filter and fluids like recommended. But those were major compared to the other stuff. Get some BACK BONE and some tools and learn about your baby. She will return the favor for many years to come. I call mine Natascha and say to my buddies that she is the "Fastest Go Kart in the South". A little bit of love and some time on the weekend and she will take you across the US. Mine has. Good luck buddy. And by the way pay attention to what some people write in this forum. Seriously. These guys and gals, have lots of great experience. T Out!.

[Mbryce42]

Well I took the advice and gained motivation from reading threads to continue working on my car to get it running like it was when I bought it, and the day I am going to begin working on it I blow my head gasket for the second time in having it for around 3 years, and with a lack of money and being in school I am going to change my headgasket again and try to spend as little money as I can. My problem right now is I'm uneasy about taking the cams and head off without messing the timing up because last time I did this I just took it all off without thinking and had to pay one of my friends at BMW to put it back on, so I'll see what I can do on it, hopefully it will be back to the car I fell in love with.  I would love any tips for the entire headgasket change procedure that might not be in any manuals but learned from experience.

[DesktopDave]

Yeah, that's the cost of these cars.  They're reliable if you set them up right.  You're ahead of the game because you know the car's history too.

Your mechanic is right, on a cost basis.  It'd absolutely be cheaper & easier to buy a more reliable car.  A ~$1500 car is simply not worth putting $1500 in repairs into.  Having said that, doing your own work will keep the costs down and you'll have more fun than 99% of the other drivers out there in their cushy upholstered living room SUV station wagons.

Also, if you do select a car that you want to work on, you can't do much better than this one.  It's far easier than a FWD car, and more durable.  Parts are actually pretty cheap and many other people have been where you're going.  We're here if you get stuck too.

You could buy something like a Subie STi if you'd like reliable & fast, but they're hell to work on (and not as much fun somehow).

[John W]

A ~$1500 car is simply not worth putting $1500 in repairs into.  

You could buy something like a Subie STi if you'd like reliable & fast, but they're hell to work on (and not as much fun somehow).

I disagree. It's always cheaper to fix what you have. Any $1500 car is going to need some work. But a $1500 car has already depreciated is cheaper to insure, cheaper to pay taxes on, and you're not likely to pay interest on it as it will already be paid off.

In addition to being hell to work on, that STi will set you back more than 30-large and a lot more than that when you factor in interest on your payment, insurance, taxes and the rapid depreciation you will experience.

I will never own a new car -- but I hope many, many others will. Just take good care of it for me; I'll want it when it's 10-12 years old and worthless.

[Choking Hazard]

I'm with John.  $1500 is the downpayment.  But additional paymants are only due when the car insists.  Of course, you won't recover these repair costs if you sell, but you would not recover repair costs selling a newer vehicle either, and at $100/ hr dealer (hey, its a new car, y'know) mech rates, a brake job may cost $1000.00

So a few simple home mechanic jobs and you are really even.  Then the rest (like, another 150,000 miles) is just gravy.  And you get to drive a BMW!