Author Topic: Dead, no start. Timing chain feels tight (Read 11517 times)

thunder39 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:31:05 PM »

got it. Has to be cps. Reads off the charts, no where near the 650 +- 10% I will order the new part asap or as soon as funds provide. Any sweet spots for cheaper cps? If not Ill bite the bullet.

Relays all checked. Number 11 fuse good. Has to be cps, or fuel pump.

AHHH! pulled cps and it was completely black and coroded. I think the main seal must be leaking oil on it. It had almost a half inch of dirt, grease and oil blocking the sensor.

Thanks so much guys! I believe I have a new forum to take all my time and since this 318 will be my dd Im sure I will be here allot to contribute and etc.

Wish me luck! Ill update when the new CPS comes in.

thunder39 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:32:47 PM »

Quote from: 3bvert;77154

I suspect the cps
yes with the ac it is a beatch to get too, but maybe you can get to it with brake clean, clean it and the crank and make sure there is not crap in the way
you should be able to test the resistance with out pulling it off the car too

for me, I did a a/c delete, so that crap is not in my way, and its been a while, so I apologize if you can not get to it with a brake clean nozzle

I went ahead and pulled the ac. Just in case I found some big leaks that were causing the cps to corrode.

I will keep the AC for now as its my dd, but when I retire it for fun I will likely delete ac and etc.

thanks

thunder39 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:34:20 PM »

Quote from: romeomike;77151

Relays are the other way around -- just checked. Picture is in post #32 of the epic no-start thread (sticky candidate?). Here's another shot in their factory-original glory. White for main, blue for fuel pump, burnt orange for oxygen sensor heat.

Thanks, I read through the threads and got allot of info. Including that diagram.

PS my relays are missing the plastic cover and were a bit corroded, i cleaned them and it fix the problem but im sure it will help later.

Anyone know where to find a new cover, or clever trick to make their own?

thunder39 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:35:38 PM »

Quote from: RED IS 91;77095

If you read the link that romeomike gave you above half your questions would be answered .You asked what relay was what and in that link there is a picture of the relays with descriptions .
again ................ check it out there is alot of info there ........
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5462

Red the thread twice, awesome! thanks for your input and romeo mike as well

thunder39 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:37:31 PM »

Quote from: rob_e30;77094

If you're getting spark to every plug it's not the ECU and most likely not timing. I would check fuel.

Yes, Im thinking CPS, or fuel. On that note if cps is gone it will not inform the ecu that the engine is spinning to close the circuit and prime the fuel via fuel relay and fuel pump.

CPS tested bad, so ill replace and if that doesnt fix the problem, ill pull the tank and pump and change those too.

thunder39 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:42:47 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;77088

The stomp test uses the throttle position sensor to signal the DME to display all codes. Turn the key to position 2 (don't start the car) and pretty quickly press the gas pedal all the way down five times. You should see the CEL start to blink. It takes me a few tries, the timing has to be perfect.

When I had a no start like yours, the only code it displayed was 1215, bad MAF. Needless to say, the MAF was OK...it was that damn CPS. So definitely test that first. You also don't want to have to replace it...I had to pull the A/C compressor & mount to pull & clean mine. It was filthy from a leaking crank seal, and once you get enough rust stuck there it'll fail to signal the DME. However, once it was clean the car fired right up.

Check the resistance on the crank position sensor. Believe it or not, the fuel pump will not prime the system if the CPS sends no signal to the ECU/DME. Resistance should be 640 ohms +- 10% IIRC.

Next likely candidate is the relays. There are three that are not in the relay box, they're under that long thin plastic cover on the firewall. They're the main relay, fuel pump relay and O2 heater relay. Test those by pulling them & jumping their sockets in the car.

Last candidate is the fusible link. Only do this if the check engine light is good but never turns on. There is an 80amp link buried in the positive lead wire coming off the battery in the trunk. You'll see a long plastic protective shroud on the passenger rear wheel well...remove the plastic nuts & move it out of the way. The small wire powers the DME among a few other things. It is not fused and passes through no relays. There is a lot of heat shrink tubing...but you'll eventually find a small silicon board, and it should have a tin strip running along it. My 325is didn't on day...that's how I found it. I used a bolt to reconnect it...you could splice in a 40amp inline fuse holder I suppose.

stomp, produced a 1444. like i guessed. new cps ftw

romeomike · « **Reply #21 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:56:37 PM »

Quote from: thunder39;77171

Thanks, I read through the threads and got allot of info. Including that diagram.

PS my relays are missing the plastic cover and were a bit corroded, i cleaned them and it fix the problem but im sure it will help later.

Anyone know where to find a new cover, or clever trick to make their own?

It's part #3 in this diagram, around $22 at pelicanparts.com. You might find one cheaper in a salvage yard that has some M42 E30s in it.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ93&mospid=47318&btnr=12_0370&hg=12&fg=31

thunder39 · « **Reply #22 on:** August 22, 2009, 09:57:26 PM »

Quote from: romeomike;77175

It's part #3 in this diagram, around $22 at pelicanparts.com. You might find one cheaper in a salvage yard that has some M42 E30s in it.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ93&mospid=47318&btnr=12_0370&hg=12&fg=31

i work in one lol. no e30s but a couple e36

thunder39 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 23, 2009, 02:41:13 PM »

new cps. still not start. =( e36 cps and crank sensor from e36 and it still just turns over.

Reset button any where for ecu or fuel pump?

thunder39 · « **Reply #24 on:** August 24, 2009, 12:18:07 PM »

Ok, old cps tested bad. Thus, all is not a loss and it may have caused a problem else where.

I pulled the fuel pump. Tested it, it worked however, it was hooked up directly to a 12 volt battery and didnt seem to be running very fast. Im guessing that it is bad. However, my only question is why didnt it run slightly when I did the jump test (with a jumper wire in socket 30 and 87)?

Since it was bad, would it simply not have enough juice to run?

Also, I tested for power at the rear of the car and got power to the fuel pump feed with the jumper wire in place.

thunder39 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 24, 2009, 12:33:06 PM »

Guys, I think Im getting to worked up and not properly reading my materials. Im begining to think that its a relay issue.

Im going to grab some coffee and re-read.

My only big question is.

1.) How powerful should my fuel pump, pump when connected to a car battery?

2.) Which connector feeds power to the fuel pump? The two prong connected to the white socket? or the three prong plug connected to the black plug?

Im thinking the black plug may be the fuel level unit and I tested power on it instead of the pump power.

romeomike · « **Reply #26 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:28:18 AM »

I'll take the second one. Two-prong is fuel pump power, three prong is the fuel sender for your gas gauge.

RED IS 91 · « **Reply #27 on:** August 25, 2009, 08:37:30 AM »

Quote from: thunder39;77342

Guys, I think Im getting to worked up and not properly reading my materials. Im begining to think that its a relay issue.

Im going to grab some coffee and re-read.

My only big question is.

1.) How powerful should my fuel pump, pump when connected to a car battery?

2.) Which connector feeds power to the fuel pump? The two prong connected to the white socket? or the three prong plug connected to the black plug?

Im thinking the black plug may be the fuel level unit and I tested power on it instead of the pump power.

There are a couple of test for your fuel pump in the bentley manual.
1) install a fuel pressure gauge at the pump ,turn the pump on and you should have 42-43 psi.
The other test is a flow rate test that is also in the same manual.

2) The prongs you see in the pic are the power points for the pump.

thunder39 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 25, 2009, 09:55:55 PM »

Quote from: romeomike;77368

I'll take the second one. Two-prong is fuel pump power, three prong is the fuel sender for your gas gauge.

Ok. No power at the fuel power feed. Thats not good huh? I also did the jumper test with a wire in 30 and 87 with no power. Damn, not looking good. I will re-test. However, what am I looking at if no power to pump feed?

thunder39 · « **Reply #29 on:** August 25, 2009, 10:05:50 PM »

That Bav auto article is quite informative. Ill follow through the steps tomorrow and repeat the tests myself. My mechanic friend who is helping me is quite impatient and irrational maybe if I slow down and think Ill be able to locate the problem (it works for psychology). lol

Thanks still! The problem will be solved!