Author Topic: redline water wetter (Read 6963 times)

DesktopDave · « **Reply #15 on:** May 22, 2011, 08:07:48 AM »

Post some pics if you get a chance. That'd be something most old car mechs would be interested in. Air leaks are the Achilles' heel of Bosch systems.

monty23psk · « **Reply #16 on:** May 22, 2011, 08:42:03 PM »

Will do. Bought the water watter, and will add it tomorrow. Going to try first was the directions say which is ~8 oz of the liquid for the cooling capacity for our cars.

I tested the plug and air pressrue reguator on my air compressor today. So now just need a metal container, and looking for one in specific. Found it online but going to check local places first. Then some fitting and hose and ready to go.

monty23psk · « **Reply #17 on:** May 25, 2011, 02:05:49 PM »

Update: Only driven to and from work the last 2 days with 8 ounces added as per instructions for our cooling size system. The car does run cooler. Even in stop and go traffic, not a long time, the guage has not gotten to the usual high point but then again my SPAL kicks on at high at that same point with the 80/88 switch. When driving the temp cools down faster.

I wonder if everyone has the same experience with my setup or OEM. I have fan clutch delete, new coolant temp sender for guage and aftermarket Spal 14" fan in place of the OEM aux, using OEM circuit, no added switch or relay. I added the sender after last rebuild 2 months ago, everything else more that a year on the car. My car normally runs from past the 1/4 part of the guage to the a little past half, like a needle thickness or two past half. It has always kept moving since I have gotten my car. I normally see the m20s or other BMWs just sit in the middle and not move around unless during the initial warmup or overheating. I have chaned tstat and water pump plus new hoses and also flush every 2 years. I just wonder if the guage moving is normal. I like the dynamic aspect but want to make sure it is normal.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #18 on:** May 25, 2011, 08:47:20 PM »

I've also noted that the M42s are more "active" than the M20s, probably just due to our under-engineered cooling system. Never seemed to cause me trouble as long as it doesn't move over the last white mark.

The needles are pretty heavily buffered to stay in the middle, could be a cluster issue. Somebody posted an article on here about the wirewound resistor and a zener diode that keep the needle centered.

monty23psk · « **Reply #19 on:** May 25, 2011, 09:59:05 PM »

I guess having it "active" means it is working, at least that is the way I see it. If it ever gets to the last white mark, I will shut her off and figure out why as that to me is not normal unless the car is on, non-stop for many hours and it is 100 degrees outside. Also, the car runs much cooler even in long rush hour traffic if not using AC, barely makes it to the middle. The strain and extra heat produce raise the temp I believe.

In conclusion, very happy with this product so far. Now to fix idle/roughness issue. Test AFM and O2, and both within spec. Next are spark plug wires and checking plugs. Only thing I did swap during last rebuild were plugs as they were only 2 weeks old.