Author Topic: Fault Code 1251... Need part #? (Read 2750 times)

Blip Bavarian · « **on:** June 18, 2009, 03:38:17 PM »

my car is showing 1251, which is fuel injector fault. i have an electrical line that is seriously damaged. it is the line that runs down and connects to the far right side (firewall side) of the conduit box that the senors plug into. It is the opposite side of the CPS.

I would like to just replace the electrical wire, but dont know if that is possible. I think i have found the wire on real oem but am not sure....

it is the wire that runs off of #18 in this pic. it has a sensor attached that connects to conduit box under the manifold mentioned above... here is a link to the pic
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=13_0308&hg=13&fg=15

can you just buy the wire, or do you have to buy the entire "plug board" for $157 ....ouch.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** June 18, 2009, 04:35:30 PM »

Is that why it's blowing the fusible link? Are you speaking about the fuel injector harness?

Buy that part at a pick-n-pull. They'll only want like $40. Let me check if my 325 has a similar part.

Nope, the M20 has individual wires, although they all use standard FI connectors. I'll bet you could splice that back together. IIRC, there are only three wires in an FI system like this...a common ground and two positives. The first positive opens bank #1 injectors to the common ground, the other positive opens bank #2 the same way.

Consult the wiring diagram before listening to my advice of course.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #2 on:** June 18, 2009, 04:39:20 PM »

yeah that is why the link was blowing. I updated the "why my car crapped" thread with an explanation. Thanks for the help by the way.

Let me know if your 325 has the same part.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** June 18, 2009, 08:50:19 PM »

I'm glad you figured it out...have to start somewhere and keep eliminating possibilities...

The harness on my M20 has just wires, no nice little conduit & plug like that one. It does have the same FI connectors - they're standard across most cars. I'd try a repair with standard 14 or 16 gauge wire, there isn't anything magical about that harness's resistance as far as I know. Are you handy with a soldering iron?

I'll slice it off and send it to you if you can't find an M42 one.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #4 on:** June 19, 2009, 03:02:39 PM »

DD, you are the man. i am not hand with a soldering iron...yet. I bought a cheap $6 soldering iron that is still in the box. I am gonna practice on some other wire before i attempt the repair. I can try to repair it myself first, and if that doesnt work, I will take you up on your offer.

Is that wire basically a conduit with several small wires inside that i would have to slplice and repair, or is it just one main wire that would be easy to repair??

Ps. i like the new quote in your sig. Very Ayn Rand-ish

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #5 on:** June 19, 2009, 08:40:34 PM »

started the car today and it ran better than it ever has. No CEL or fault codes and a perfect idle. maybe i wont need to replace the wire afterall

DesktopDave · « **Reply #6 on:** June 19, 2009, 08:51:45 PM »

Hey, I'm happy to hear that...you can help me when mine dies next time...but 275 (long) posts and I've only helped three people get their cars going, what's up with that?

I'd suspect you have three wires there...bank one positive (two connectors), bank two positive (two connectors), and a ground wire (four connectors). Just R&R...cut out the bare copper, splice in a new wire, flux & solder...I twist them together and solder.

Buy some heat-shrink tube too. Slide it on before you do your solder...then heat it up with a lighter to shrink it tight...

You'll also need rosin-core solder. Don't get lead solder (poisonous), don't get acid core solder (it's for structural soldering). Get a whole roll...once you get started it's hard to stop.

You might not know what flux is...it's a clear paste that's very acidic. Get the tin with a brush in it. When you brush it on the wires, it'll brighten them immediately. When you brush it on your fingers...well, just don't do that. The flux makes a path for solder to follow, & when you get it all warmed up the solder will melt right into the wires. It's easy with a little practice (& kinda cool). You'll know when it's an OK joint when it cools and it's still shiny. If it dulls a little that's OK...but give the wires a good tug to make sure they stay together. And remember that copper is a superb conductor of heat too.

Just remember not to touch yourself with the business end of the iron. It'll give instant 2nd or even 3rd degree burns. They're easy to drop too...then you can do the 'not get burned dance' and calmly continue your work...

Hate Ayn Rand...some girl made me read 'Atlas Shrugged.' Took freakin' forever and I didn't even get laid! I guess it's not Ayn's fault. You can't go wrong with Aryton!

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #7 on:** June 19, 2009, 09:27:48 PM »

i bought all of the stuff you mentioned.. but the car seems to work fine now. I will guve it a try if it starts giving me fuel pressure problems again.

DD, you are like the philanthropist for this site. you have given me tons of great information that ended up fixing my car, as well as familiarized me with many parts of my car and how the work. I really appreciate all your help, as im sure other members do too.

i will check out Ayrton Senna, never heard of him, but love the quote.

atlas shrugged is my favorite book..

Every man builds his world in his own image. He has the power to choose, but no power to escape the necessity of choice. - Ayn Rand