Author Topic: Running Rich, codes 1222 and 1226, replaced many things (Read 8646 times)

JoeDellio · « **Reply #15 on:** June 24, 2009, 02:03:22 PM »

Just pulled my codes again to reset them for the new CCV install (will be here in an hour).

Pulled a new code today #1215 the air sensor. WTF?!?!?!

JoeDellio · « **Reply #16 on:** June 24, 2009, 03:28:17 PM »

Just installed the CCV, the car is sitting in my driveway warming up. I havent driven it yet, but I can tell you that at least now when I pull my oil fill cap or my dipstick my car stumbles and wants to die, so at least now its pulling vacuum.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #17 on:** June 24, 2009, 05:28:22 PM »

Good so far...but I'll bet the world will thank you if you edit that valve out of the system. I'd just replace the plumbing, add a restrictor and/or one-way valve, and maybe an oil catch can like the ricers use.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #18 on:** June 24, 2009, 11:57:44 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;74201

Good so far...but I'll bet the world will thank you if you edit that valve out of the system. I'd just replace the plumbing, add a restrictor and/or one-way valve, and maybe an oil catch can like the ricers use.

I thought about it earlier, but it has to pull a certain amount of vacuum, too much and itll pull air in throught the engine seals with a loud whistle, and too little will force air out of the cap. Im sure I could get it happy at idle, but I dont know how it would react in a wide RPM range.

What I did on my talon was put on a Fram G2 motorcycle fuel filter. Its a one way valve thatll trap oil. But that engine also had a seperate PCV line too. It could be worth a shot if my problem comes back into play.

UPDATE: Put on the new CCV and drove the car for 3 hours tonight, Im still getting fault codes, but I am not leaking any oil out the cap as of yet.

I did pull a new code that happened to be the air sensor #1215, its the only time Ive pulled that one, and it wont come back now since I cleared it. So right away tonight I bought one of a member on BF's for $50 shipped.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #19 on:** June 25, 2009, 07:05:49 AM »

Poor AFM...it's probably shocked at the vacuum it's seeing now!

I'd check that AFM connector, and 1215 codes can also be caused by vacuum leaks or other related intake issues.

It's like the O2 sensor error, that's usually the FPR running the injectors too rich.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #20 on:** June 25, 2009, 12:13:56 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;74242

Poor AFM...it's probably shocked at the vacuum it's seeing now!

I'd check that AFM connector, and 1215 codes can also be caused by vacuum leaks or other related intake issues.

It's like the O2 sensor error, that's usually the FPR running the injectors too rich.

Great, I hope the 1215 error isnt just getting screwed up now because of my pressure/intake/vacuum issues. Then I just wasted my money.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #21 on:** June 25, 2009, 09:19:30 PM »

Just bought a stock FPR off ebay today for $20 shipped. So then I can rule that out along with the new AFM.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #22 on:** June 25, 2009, 10:21:50 PM »

I'd hold off on stuff until you're sure the problem is fixed, unless you just want to add the reliability factor to your car. It's possible that a different used part will be worse than the one you have on the car. Is it still running well?

JoeDellio · « **Reply #23 on:** June 26, 2009, 04:03:50 AM »

It runs fine, doesnt leak any oil out of the cap anymore, but its still running rich and still pulling codes 1222 and 1226. So Im just going down the line of things to try for the rich problem, plus with 250K, the FPR on the car is still the OEM. My plugs and O2 sensor are still pitch black, I cant believe it runs as good as it does, but eventually the plugs are gonna foul out again soon and Ill have to limp it back home for another cleaning to keep me going.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #24 on:** June 30, 2009, 03:24:27 PM »

Just installed the FPR.

Funny thing is it is a 3.5 bar, when the one that came out was a 3.0 bar.
My car is a 09/94, and this is the diagram it shows for it http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CA53&mospid=47490&btnr=13_0366&hg=13&fg=15

But my injection system looks like this one from a M44 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD73&mospid=47493&btnr=13_0416&hg=13&fg=15 which still says a 3.0 bar, but WTF? Im pretty sure I have the M42, I dont know why I have the M44 injection type system.

Im guessing now the 3.5 bar FPR is just gonna dump even more fuel?

3.5 bar FPR made no difference, codes still pop up, 1226,1222,1221. This is the wrong FPR right? Should I put the old 3 bar back in?

JoeDellio · « **Reply #25 on:** July 03, 2009, 02:12:11 AM »

Different FPR didnt make a difference.

Neither did a different AFM. I put a supposed good one from a 92 318i and the car ran worse, bogging out and sputtering real bad.

I put in different plugs that were good when I switched to iridiums and the car still bogs out bad, Im gonna swap my old AFM back in and see if this problem persists, but then I still have the original problem...

My next step is Im gonna try and test the O2 circuit if I can figure out how, and see if the sensor is dead, or if its even getting power to it.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #26 on:** July 03, 2009, 10:01:44 AM »

I tested it in and out of the car tonight.

Outside of the car I read its DCV with a torch to it. I could get it to read .1 all the way up to .7 with the torch on it for around 2 minutes, but when I would pull it away it would drop real slow, it should drop at least .1 within 5 seconds.

Back in the car I hooked it up and left it out to ensure the heater was coming on, and it was.

Put it back in and tried to monitor the volts at idle, the car was warm and should have been in closed loop, which should have had the volts jumping back and forth from below .45 and over it. All I got was a solid -6.5? WTF?

Then I checked my temp gauge and it was 3/4!!!!! Just from idling for 10 minutes. All my cooling system is all new, coincidence with the O2? I dont know. Maybe I cooked it too much and messed something up?

So then I let the car cool down and unplugged the O2 and started it back up and drove it around, no overheating at all, stayed right in the middle.

I didnt think it was possible for an O2 to read that low. To pull a number under .45v means its running lean and the O2 is trying to compensate by adding more fuel. But -6.5? thats crazy, either it was already broken or I cooked it.

Back to the drawing board. :confused:

DesktopDave · « **Reply #27 on:** July 03, 2009, 11:58:46 AM »

I'm not sure which set of pins to read. It sounds like you did the right thing...but I'm not sure a torch would get it to read right. 6.5vdc sounds like a voltage drop on the heater instead of the sensor feed.

My car will heat up if it's idling for too long, I'm still working on that one. Might be a bad sender switch in my case.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #28 on:** July 03, 2009, 05:54:35 PM »

My car has never heated up like that before. Both sensors are new, temp switch, t-stat, pump and radiator, with the TB heater delete!

Im almost posotive I tapped the right wire, it was the gray one. I have a gray, black, and then the 2 whites for the heater.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #29 on:** July 06, 2009, 02:35:10 PM »

Just noticed I am losing coolant. Checked it again today and it was down to the little tube that is in the bottom of the resevoir tank. I am 99% sure I am not leaking it, so I must be burning it.

Im thinking maybe thats why I pulled a low compression reading on my #1 cylinder, but I dont have enough knowledge or will power left to link it to my main problem.

I get some white smoke on a hard rev, but my exhaust doesnt smell sweet like it would with a blown HG. And there is no oil in my coolant and vice versa, but I know HG's can be tricky somtimes with no symptoms at all.