Author Topic: Running Rich, codes 1222 and 1226, replaced many things (Read 8636 times)

JoeDellio · « **on:** June 18, 2009, 01:39:33 AM »

Not gettin much love on BF, need some M42 guru knowledge

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1250139

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** June 18, 2009, 07:05:02 AM »

You have to figure out why you have positive pressure in your crankcase. I have an e30, so I won't be much help with that positive pressure ventilator. It's worth a second look. The manifolds on M42s get pretty nasty with dino oil, it might just need some cleaning. Maybe run a compression test? There is no way pressure should be forcing oil out of the cap.

B318M42W · « **Reply #2 on:** June 18, 2009, 09:39:15 AM »

is it possible that one of the crankcase ventilation hoses is clogged??? what happens if you completely unplug it? (at the valve cover) and +1 on the compression test. book says 156 PSI, but for some reason some ppl get 225??!

JP 91iS · « **Reply #3 on:** June 18, 2009, 12:08:26 PM »

Quote from: B318M42W;73827

is it possible that one of the crankcase ventilation hoses is clogged??? what happens if you completely unplug it? (at the valve cover) and +1 on the compression test. book says 156 PSI, but for some reason some ppl get 225??!

That 156psi is the lowest it should be. When I did mine it was 220 across all 4.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #4 on:** June 18, 2009, 09:05:24 PM »

Quote from: B318M42W;73827

is it possible that one of the crankcase ventilation hoses is clogged??? what happens if you completely unplug it? (at the valve cover) and +1 on the compression test. book says 156 PSI, but for some reason some ppl get 225??!

When I unplug it it the CCV whistles and the car stumbles real hard until I block the CCV with my finger, then it runs fine, but I cant feel any pressure coming out of the valve cover end of the hose, which is weird, because 16 inches away it gets forced out the cap.

Could a lot of blowby be the culprit? I would think my exhaust would smoke at least a little if I got that much blowby.

B318M42W · « **Reply #5 on:** June 19, 2009, 12:39:22 AM »

take off the valve cover and have a look???

JoeDellio · « **Reply #6 on:** June 19, 2009, 02:17:55 AM »

Quote from: B318M42W;73883

take off the valve cover and have a look???

Did that tonight, nothing out of the ordinary, nothing was clogged or anything. Im still tryin to figure out why when I pull my oil cap off when my car is running it doesnt change the idle at all.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #7 on:** June 19, 2009, 12:35:28 PM »

UPDATE: I took off the CCV, everything is intact. With the CCV removed the hole which it covers sucks SUPER hard, so I put the hose that goes to the CCV directly on it and then I get tons of vacuum.

When I put the CCV back on its like it barely pulls at all. Ive never heard of them breaking this way, Its almost like the spring is too weak and it shuts itself off.

It is a brand new CCV from Pelican, but I bought the FEBI one, not the OEM. If anybody could pull off there CCV hose and see how hard it sucks when they put their finger over it that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #8 on:** June 21, 2009, 01:55:30 AM »

NEW UPDATE

Compression tests out 160-230-230-210. Of course its always cylinder #1.
All my plugs are pitch black.

I dont think that blowby in just cylinder #1 would cause:

A. All my spark plugs to be fouled/borderline dead.
B. My Crankcase pressure to be off the chart.
C. The reason why my car is running rich.

Im still leaning on the CCV. I contacted Pelican and they are gonna send me a new one because its only 2 months old. I really think this one is defective or my car just flat out killed it. I think my positive pressure is because my CCV isnt letting it through, or at least I hope so.

If a new CCV fixes the problem Ill be happy. If it craps out, and indeed my weak cylinder #1 is ruining my fun, then in goes a new longblock. Locally they can be had for $500-$700 with 90,000 to 130,000 miles. And itll get ARP head studs on it

Ill post up when I get the new CCV in hopefully by the end of the week.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #9 on:** June 21, 2009, 07:41:58 AM »

I'd do the same thing, and I agree that one low reading isn't cause for all that. Let us know if the new CCV works out. Might just have been a defective one.

Just wondering...do you use synthetic or dino oil?

JoeDellio · « **Reply #10 on:** June 21, 2009, 12:54:46 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;73987

I'd do the same thing, and I agree that one low reading isn't cause for all that. Let us know if the new CCV works out. Might just have been a defective one.

Just wondering...do you use synthetic or dino oil?

I use dino oil, and sometimes diesel oil to clean her out.

Im afraid synthetic on 249K miles will sprout some major leaks. What do you reccomend? Anything that can stand up to blowby more than others?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #11 on:** June 21, 2009, 03:24:06 PM »

I have 268K on mine, switched over to synthetic with no problem. I don't know where anyone gets this idea that synthetic will make an engine leak. :mad: It's never been my experience. Sure, if you have pre-existing leaks, the thin synthetic will ooze a little faster, but that's the only difference I've ever seen. That and higher fuel mileage, easier cold starts, etc.

The ten cars that I've changed over to synthetic are either still running or went to salvage from unrelated problems. No major leaks that I know of. They range from minivans to pickups to my beloved BMWs.

Motorcycles and diesels are different...wet clutches don't do well with some additives in synthetics. Gas engine cars always seem to run better on synthetic. Only downside to me is that it's so expensive.

Synthetics I'd avoid are alcohol or biodiesel unless you're prepared for them. These are solvents, and will attack old gaskets. Teflon is also a no-no.

So there you have my humble opinion...sorry to soapbox, but I had to get that out!

JoeDellio · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2009, 12:27:09 AM »

What synthetic do you use? Ive been wanting to try the Mobil 1 10W40 high mileage.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #13 on:** June 23, 2009, 06:55:42 AM »

I'll use whatever is on sale...:p I'm uh, frugal.

Currently I'm using Ultra Q 10w40, Quaker State's offering. I prefer Purolator, Mobile1 or OEM oil filters.

I wouldn't recommend this for everyone, but I'll use BMW's standard 15000 mile/annual interval, but replace the filter every 6k or 6months, whichever comes first. Since this is a third car/hobby/toy I end up replacing a filter on the first day of spring and another filter & oil on the first day of fall.

I don't use this car for commuting and it's not dusty where I live...that'd require the severe duty regimen, more like 7.5k miles oil & 3k filters. Your mileage may definitely vary, I don't think anyone else would recommend this sort of technique.

JoeDellio · « **Reply #14 on:** June 23, 2009, 03:23:30 PM »

Today for the hell of it I am going to put an old boost/vacuum gauge on the car. I am going to hook it up between the FPR and intake to see what the reading is. Im guessing itll be anywhere from 10 to 20 on the vacuum side of things, that is, unless the CCV is screwing crap up.

Then Im gonna get a reading with the gauge between the VC and the CCV. If Im right about my thoughts, the positive pressure from the VC is shutting off the CCV and its gonna read boost pressure on the gauge.

Then Im going to get a one way valve or maybe even just a ball valve and try and get the CCV side vacuum reading to match whatever the FPR and intake side is reading. If I can adjust it correctly Im going to try and get it to read 18 counts of vacuum, and see if my CEL, oil leaks out the cap, and if my plugs get fouled or not. Im just gonna mess around with it, the new CCV should be here tomorrow or THURS at the latest.