Author Topic: Engine running rough - fault code 1214 (Read 7874 times)

carl6405 · « **on:** May 28, 2009, 05:10:05 PM »

1993 318i M42

This problem left us stranded in North Carolina on our way back to Virginia. The tow bill was $600!

The scenario is, the car runs ok, but sputters some. But after it warms up and especially, if you drive the car hard for any period of time, Im talking like 80mph, it will start missing on you. Take it slow, then you can drive it, but have to keep it under 55mph.
I have replaced the o2 sensor, the coolant temp sensor, the cam shaft position sensor. I orderd a brand new idle control valve today and hoping that is going to take care of it. Also, just replaced the catalytic converter.

Fault code 1214 points to the ICV. This code is generated when i have this problem. The thing is, is that the problem is not consistant. I can drive it to work 3 days in a row and not have the problem, then the next day, the problem will occur. I also replaced the spark plugs. Those plugs were only a couple of months old and they all were black and the center post was more like a point and not flat.
Im not the original owner of the car and notice that two of the 4 ignition coils are different from the other 2. Could it be a coil issue?

I would appreciate any ideas.
Thanks
Carl

Danny707 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 28, 2009, 05:12:28 PM »

Uh

Clean the ICV?

carl6405 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 28, 2009, 05:14:09 PM »

I have cleaned the ICV, twice. Also, put a couple of drops of oil in there. Also, i replaced the fuel pump. Actually, this problem didnt start until I replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the pump cause it had gotten noisy.

derek9702 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 28, 2009, 07:08:05 PM »

Did you replace the fuel filter? Might be a restriction?

carl6405 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 29, 2009, 05:26:20 AM »

Derek, Yes, We did replace the fuel filter. I will get my new ICV today. If this doesnt fix it, The next thing I will be looking at is the coils.

carl6405 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 29, 2009, 05:41:55 AM »

I just went and checked my spark plugs out, being that I just replaced them, this past weekend. I discoverd that one of the plugs, has a lot of oil on the threads. I did replace the valve cover gasket recently, but didnt replace the spark plug gaskets. Oil is seeping in to the cylinder from around the sparkplug, therefore loosing spark casing the miss. This is what Im thinking. So, I will replace those small gaskets around the plug next and hopefully that will do the trick.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #6 on:** May 29, 2009, 07:59:20 PM »

If the plugs are a flat black you're running too rich. I'd do a pressure & flow test on the pump first, just to eliminate it as a cause. Maybe the fuel pressure regulator gave up the ghost with all that pressure? That'd make it run rich!

I wouldn't worry about the oil in the plugs. Its relatively normal to have a little seepage in there. Mine always has oily plugs. As long as it's not insulating the plug boots, that it.

Might also be the ICV because of the ever popular vacuum leak. Usually a vacuum leak will make it run lean, so I'd check that little nasty hose that runs under the intake to the ICV for a leak. I'm figuring unmetered air there would make it rich. It bends all over; then gets preheated, cracks just where they can't be seen. Mine practically dissolved in my hand when I finally got to it.

What kind of plugs did you use? I only ask because I had installed Champions in my old BMW and it ran poorly. Swapping to copper NGKs helped a little. I'm trying out the NGK/Denso Iridiums in my bike too - they're working well.

I also had a Nissan Sentra that would only run on NGK plugs. The Bosch Platinums actually stranded me once. Plugs are the simple fix - but you'll have to pull them until you get to the root of the problem. It's more difficult because you can't repeat it in your driveway.

carl6405 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 30, 2009, 08:00:02 AM »

Desktop Dave. Thanks for the your response. I have replaced the plugs with the AC delco plugs. That is also what was in there before(from when I replaced them). Question. The rings that come with a new spark plug. Am I supposed to put the around the spark plug?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #8 on:** May 30, 2009, 11:06:38 AM »

Yup - use the rings. Those rings compress to seal, so you'll have to tighten the plugs differently the first time as they seal. The next time you pull them they'll already be squashed so they'll be 'easier' to tighten to the same torque. I usually also use a bit of copper anti-seize too. I usually hand tighten plugs then give them an 1/8th turn to tighten in a cold engine.

I'd go with the stock Bosch plugs as they last much longer than the copper ones. They're overpriced but the car seems to run better with them. I also like NGKs.

carl6405 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 30, 2009, 11:52:51 AM »

Update.
This morning, I removed the plugs and brushed, around the spark plug threads, some gasket sealer, (indian head brand, its made to brush on bolts that hold in the water pump) then put the plugs back. Im am a bit relieved, cause, it looks like the oil is coming in from the top of the plug, then was seeping down in to the piston area and causing a miss. Also, replaced the ICV with the new one that came. Test drove it for 30 miles or so and all seems better so far. I feel 95% sure that this is going to do the trick. Getting ready to take a longer trip and see how she does.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #10 on:** May 30, 2009, 12:03:42 PM »

I wouldn't use gasket sealer on the plugs. It just makes them harder to get out, and they need a solid contact with the head for the spark to ground.

I'm glad it's fixed...might well have been the plugs. If it happens again, make sure you check the fuel system flow & pressure; and the intake system for vacuum leaks. Those both might change when they're warm and cause a no-start.

carl6405 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 30, 2009, 01:14:07 PM »

Test drive results:
Failed!
Im getting a sulfor smell(catalytic converter has been replaced) Problem is still there. Seems to be a bigger problem when the AC is on. Electrical? Maybe spark issue. Where does the ignition coils get theire spark from?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #12 on:** May 31, 2009, 03:36:23 PM »

Sorry to hear. The coils are fired from the computer (DME/ECU). Solid-state switches ground the coils and fire the plugs. To test the coil packs:
1. Pull the plugs, put them back into their boots, dangling outside of the engine
2. Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse (to keep raw fuel away from the exposed spark plugs)
3. Ground the plugs to the engine somewhere (I use the exhaust manifold)
4. Have a helper turn the engine over and watch the plugs for spark. Be aware that the plugs will not spark if they aren't grounded. Make sure they all have a nice blue spark...evening is best for this because it's very hard to see them spark in direct sunlight. If they have a weak yellow spark and they're well grounded it might mean trouble. There is a test procedure for coil packs somewhere.

carl6405 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 31, 2009, 06:25:32 PM »

Dave,
Thanks for that tip. I have tested them with an ohm meter and they all read the same. I didnt put much credit into my test. I will definately go through this test. My coils are all bolted together, and with out the fancy plastic cover that's supposed to be over them. So, I should be able to use the ground that is already there. They are all grounded to the body with this one heavy black cable. Actualy, since my last post, I did some things that seemed to help. We just got back from a nearly 200 mile trip and it didnt stall on me once. But, it seems to me that it is running lean. My mpg is to high, and it is still sputtering a bit. Im getting close to 40mpg. But, when I put my foot in to it and get her up to 80, it gave an occasional sputter, but nothing that made her stall out.
Here is what I did today to it. Re-positioned the coils. Meaning, what was going to plug wire 1 is now going to 4 and so on. Created a new ground wire to the coil pack. Also, ran a 1/2 can of Sea foam directly through the intake manifold and through the system. Poured a can of Heat, water absorbing stuff in to the gas tank. Also, a 1/2 a shot glass of Acetone. My wife was helping me. She discoverd a sensor, under the throttle body that was kind of falling out of the connector. That metal clip on that particular sensor isnt springing back up, and that connector was loose. I think its the "Pulse Generator" sensor. We had to take that particular sensor off when we fixed a prior problem, replaced the oil pump. (That was a whole other thread and big job, then came to find out, it wasnt the pump, but problem was remnants of the prior timing chain guides were laying around in the oil pan, getting sucked up in to the sump.)
So, now, I will check those coils. Autozone, actually has 1 in stock. $79 x 4=ouch! again.
Thanks for the tips.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #14 on:** May 31, 2009, 09:31:31 PM »

I'm not sure what sensor you're talking about - the 'pulse generator' is the cam position sensor on the front of the engine. That is the most important sensor for spark plug timing. If that connector is loose, I'm guessing that the computer would be using the less accurate crank position sensor instead. That might contribute to the problem too. Those little connectors do cause trouble. Sounds like the connector may have cracked & fallen into the conduit that runs alongside the driver's side of the engine block. Take it apart and fix that up. I'd run to a salvage yard and clip a good connector to repair it. I might have one myself, I'll go dig around.

You're really way ahead of me on that engine - I still have to fix my noisy chain. I have a hunch that your coils are OK. I wonder if those coils are available anywhere else? Too expensive for my car, that's for sure!