Author Topic: Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump (Read 31323 times)

romeomike · « **Reply #15 on:** April 30, 2009, 03:55:21 PM »

Quote from: lindol;71156

Ok, thanks for the inputs, but, just to verify, is it the apostrophe or the circle with the arrow that will give the code?

Thank you!:)

Circle with the arrow

lindol · « **Reply #16 on:** April 30, 2009, 04:03:51 PM »

Great....too bad I'm going out of town tomorrow and won't get to investigate this till next week, I'll be back though with any updates after that. Can't wait to say, " It's fixed, I found the problem!"

Thanks:D

roundel318 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 30, 2009, 06:04:18 PM »

No problem, I didn't notice your location.
If the ICV is dicey, try disconnecting it then starting the car and seeing what happens.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #18 on:** May 02, 2009, 01:06:12 PM »

I'm having a similar problem, but I haven't hooked up a multimeter to read the CPS resistance or fuel pump relay socket. Fuel pump runs only when jumped, main & O2 relays are working, fuse 11 is OK, but the fuel pump relay isn't energizing.

I'm also getting a 1215 with the stomp test. Bad MAF...but it had a little water in the connector and a few cracks in the intake boots. I'll be taping them up too. After I get the car running the manifold will come off for the hose delete. After that, the other hundred things wrong with the car will need some fixing, but the car seems worth it.

I'll let you know what I find, just wanted to let you know you're not alone.

*EDIT* Why oh why didn't I check to see what the procedure for pulling the crank sensor? I had to remove the A/C Compressor and its bracket! NOT the most fun I've had all day. I did find that the lower support for the CPS wire was hanging loose w/no bolt. Have to patch that up. I was also hoping that an m20 CPS was the same as an m42. Nope. Leads too short, sensor body is shorter length. Plugs and mount are identical though.

I'll be heading into the wiring tray under the intake next to take a look-see.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #19 on:** May 02, 2009, 08:52:11 PM »

Well, quick update. The car is, surprisingly, running. I'm honestly not sure what fixed it. I taped up a few vacuum hoses (just as a band-aid), and cleaned the crank & cam sensors. That little elbow under the throttle body is totally shot!

I must have a lot of oil leaks in the front of the engine...that crank sensor was coated. Maybe cleaning that solved the problem? Anyway, thanks for all the help - this board is great. I'm looking forward to driving my 318i now, right after I put the A/C back together.

lindol · « **Reply #20 on:** May 05, 2009, 07:04:55 AM »

Quote from: lindol;71156

Ok, thanks for the inputs, but, just to verify, is it the apostrophe or the circle with the arrow that will give the code?

Thank you!:)

Quote from: romeomike;71158

Circle with the arrow

Hello, I'm back from the weekend and ready to move ahead with the diagnosis of the problem, but I think I've hit another snag. Have a look at the back side of my instrument panel in the following two pictures.

I was hoping that the hole with the circle and arrow would be similar to the other light receptacles, but as you can see it's quite different. My question to the forum is, what is that receptacle supposed to look like, are there wires attached to it? If this is indeed something coming off the wiring harness I think I might be out of luck with using this as a diagnostic tool, hoping someone can shed light on how this is supposed to look.:confused:

lindol · « **Reply #21 on:** May 05, 2009, 07:30:25 AM »

Quote from: lindol;71132

The buzzing I'm getting is constant with the key in the ON position. I'm not sure if it's the fuel regulator or the ICV, it is located very near the firewall. Here's a picture, perhaps someone can confirm what this is, it's the black cylinder in the center of the picture thats buzzing.

If that's not the ICV, where is it and if it's not buzzing could that be causing my problem?

Also, still need someone to verify that that black thing is the ICV, please give me an answer if you can.

lindol · « **Reply #22 on:** May 05, 2009, 02:40:48 PM »

Quote from: lindol;71389

Hello, I'm back from the weekend and ready to move ahead with the diagnosis of the problem, but I think I've hit another snag. Have a look at the back side of my instrument panel in the following two pictures.

I was hoping that the hole with the circle and arrow would be similar to the other light receptacles, but as you can see it's quite different. My question to the forum is, what is that receptacle supposed to look like, are there wires attached to it? If this is indeed something coming off the wiring harness I think I might be out of luck with using this as a diagnostic tool, hoping someone can shed light on how this is supposed to look.:confused:

After some surfing of the net I came to believe I could create my own fault code light by using Gunni's pinout guide below.

Quote from: Gunni;15087

Motronic Control unit
   Function   Color
1   Fuel Pump Relay   BR/GN
2
3   Injectors 1-3   BR/WT
4
5
6   Ground   BR/OR
7
8   Check Engine light   BR
9
10
11
12   TPS Signal 5v   BR
13
14   Common 5v   GY/BU
15
16   Camshaft sensor input   YL
17   Fuel rate output   WT
18
19
20
21
22
23
24   Ignition cyl 3   BK
25   Ignition cyl 1   BK
26   Power Input   RD/WT
27   Main Relay control   BR
28   Ground   BR/OR
29   Idle Speed Control   WT/YL
30
31
32   Injectors 2-4   BR/WT
33
34   Ground
35
36   Charcoal Canister control   BR
37   O2 relay control   BR/GN
38
39
40
41   AFM Input (5v)   GY/YL
42
43   Common 5v Coolant and TPS   BR/BK
44   Camshaft sensor input   BK
45
46
47
48
49
50
51   Ignition cyl 4   BK
52   Ignition cyl 2   BK
53
54   Power Input   RD/WT
55   Ground
56   Start Input   GN/YL
57
58
59   Refrence output (Ground??)   GY/WT
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67   Crankshaft input sensor   BK
68   Crankshaft input sensor   YL
69
70   O2 Input   BK
71   O2 Ground   YL
72
73   Speed Signal input   BK/WT
74   Engine Speed Output
75
76
77   Air temp input   GY/VI
78   Coolant temp input   BR/RD
79
80   Diagnostic voltage   GN/BU
81
82
83
84
85   A/C Input   BK/GY
86   A/C Input   BK/VI
87   RXD Diagnostic   WT/YL
88   TXD Diagnistic   WT/VI

I did these yesterday as I was working on my adapter for my standalone I�m installing, Although I will probably cut up the adapter as it�s only held on with solder and well I wasn�t getting the perfect soldering as I wanted,

I figured I�d throw these on the board for you guys,
This is directly based on the E30_92.pdf file,
the 91 one was empty of all information,

Enjoy

According to what I've read on other sites I only need the fault code signal, which looks like it comes from pinout 8 and then a switched 12V signal connected to a 12V bulb and I should be able to perform the test. I tried it earlier today, but I was taking the advice of a guy with a 320 instead of the 318is, his fault signal was on pinout 15. So, I'll be investigating that again tomorrow. If it works, that will be a breakthrough for anyone else like me, that doesn't have this already wired up to his car. Does this sound correct to those of you that know a bit about these systems?:cool:

ak96ss · « **Reply #23 on:** May 05, 2009, 03:19:34 PM »

That socket for the circle-with-arrow on the back of the cluster still just holds a bulb. There should be a small bulb hanging off the harness that the white connector is on that goes in that hole.

That doesn't look like my ICV, but it could be - does it have a rubber hose that leads to the intake manifold? It's hard to tell from the picture - have a bigger version?

lindol · « **Reply #24 on:** May 05, 2009, 03:47:52 PM »

Quote from: ak96ss;71403

That socket for the circle-with-arrow on the back of the cluster still just holds a bulb. There should be a small bulb hanging off the harness that the white connector is on that goes in that hole.

Not sure if the euro version is as well equipped as your version, I didn't see a connector with a bulb anywhere in the vicinity when I had the instrument panel out earlier today.

That doesn't look like my ICV, but it could be - does it have a rubber hose that leads to the intake manifold? It's hard to tell from the picture - have a bigger version?

Hopefully this is a bit better, otherwise I can take more pictures of it tomorrow!I'll also check where the rubber hoses lead to/from this.

Many thanks for your reply and interest, nice to know I can get some feedback, especially with these problems that aren't so quick to diagnose!

lindol · « **Reply #25 on:** May 06, 2009, 08:28:25 AM »

Quote from: lindol;71402

After some surfing of the net I came to believe I could create my own fault code light by using Gunni's pinout guide below.

According to what I've read on other sites I only need the fault code signal, which looks like it comes from pinout 8 and then a switched 12V signal connected to a 12V bulb and I should be able to perform the test. I tried it earlier today, but I was taking the advice of a guy with a 320 instead of the 318is, his fault signal was on pinout 15. So, I'll be investigating that again tomorrow. If it works, that will be a breakthrough for anyone else like me, that doesn't have this already wired up to his car. Does this sound correct to those of you that know a bit about these systems?:cool:

Today, I wired up my own fault code reader as I had planned. I opened up the ECU/DME cable harness, found the brown wire at position 8, added another wire to it and soldered this all together. I then attached the other end of this added wire to a 12V bulb in an old bulb housing that I had. From the bulb housing's other connector pin I hooked that up to the + side of the battery. I then reattached the DME, reattached the battery main cables and proceeded to turn the key on and do the stomp test. To my great delight, it actually worked after having to try the stomp routine a few times. To my even greater dismay, the only code I get is 1444, NO FAULT, how can this be?
Does this at least give my DME a clean bill of health if it supplied codes??

Hopefully this is a bit better, otherwise I can take more pictures of it tomorrow!I'll also check where the rubber hoses lead to/from this.

Next, I thought I might as well take a look at the ICV since I don't have any solid clues from the code reading exercise. I must admit that I had misidentified the black cylindrical item as the ICV, I found the ICV around the corner from that, attached at the back end of the intake manifold.
Once I removed it I applied 12V to it and could see the little door very, very quickly move as it is meant to. So, no problem there either.

I guess I'll have a look at the AFM next....

Question to the forum, could my CPS still be the culprit even if it gave me the correct ohm reading???:confused::confused:

Jimmy Lewis · « **Reply #26 on:** May 06, 2009, 04:01:48 PM »

Yes, the CPS could be bad even though it reads the correct ohmage. They usually don't fail outright, but rather the sheathing becomes worn thin which allows intermittent grounding: signal loss. I know that when mine failed, I was getting spark and the resistance was right on the money, so I threw out the idea until I went ahead and pulled it. The sheathing was worn in a place out of sight and had to be grounding itself out. When me and Eric went through my car with the fluke we were convinced that there was a problem in the injector harness as we couldn't verify the pulsing signal. Obviously now I know that it was CPS which prevented the injectors from pulsing, but it sure gave us a headache for a while. I was in the exact same boat as you are, pondering wiring diagrams and basically learned every damn signal the ecu sees to make the car run.

All in all, I would look into the CPS a bit more, haha.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #27 on:** May 06, 2009, 04:20:51 PM »

I had the same problem - no start, no pump. I did the check engine test and came up with code 1215, MAF sensor. I pulled the plug, removed then re-routed the funny little extension connector, sprayed some Radio Shack contact cleaner into it. Still no start.

I took the air intake apart, used plain electrical tape to patch up the worst of the cracks (especially the one off the bottom of the throttle body). Put it back together, still no start & code 1215.

I pulled the crank position sensor (you have to pull the A/C compressor bracket to get to it); cleaned it pretty well, reinstalled it. The cable was loose, there's a little plastic holder that the wire runs through. It was loose, I bolted it back on. At 10PM the car finally started! It ran badly, but now it's fine. Still have the 1215 code, if you can believe it.

lindol · « **Reply #28 on:** May 06, 2009, 04:23:49 PM »

Jimmy Lewis

Yes, sounds definitely like you can relate to my situation, everything I test keeps turning out to be good and yet the car won't start.
Was planning to go through things again from the beginning, but perhaps I should just pull the CPS and have a more detailed look at it, perhaps I can even affect the ohm readout while moving the sensor about.

The other thing that keeps nagging me is the Main Relay, it works because pin 30 is transmitting power to pin 87, yet the current doesn't flow through from pin 85 to pin 27 of the DME (see the very first entry of this thread for the diagram). Did this also happen to you?

lindol · « **Reply #29 on:** May 06, 2009, 04:31:14 PM »

DesktopDave

I'll be pulling the CPS tomorrow for a closer look, luckily I don't have A/C on this car! Thanks for your comments, I sympathise with your code woes, I actually get 1444, which isn't funny, haha!

Author Topic: Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump (Read 31323 times)

romeomike

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

lindol

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

roundel318

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

DesktopDave

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

DesktopDave

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

lindol

Another twist to the story!

lindol

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

lindol

What do you think about this idea??

ak96ss

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

lindol

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

lindol

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

Jimmy Lewis

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

DesktopDave

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

lindol

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump

lindol

Car won't start - not CPS or Fuel pump