Author Topic: rust repairs (Read 20226 times)

dark_islight · « **on:** September 11, 2008, 08:02:10 AM »

I bought this car as a winter car in 2005 expecting to get a few winters out of it. Sadly, I can't just let her die or resell it with the rusted areas not repaired.

So I have started doing some repairs in the dreaded e30 bad zones.

1. Under the fuse box.
2. Firewall/Drivers floor/Passenger floor
3. Passenger rear wheel well

I'll keep you posted on the progress.

dark_islight · « **Reply #1 on:** September 11, 2008, 07:10:24 PM »

Cut out all the rot.

monty23psk · « **Reply #2 on:** September 11, 2008, 11:22:57 PM »

good luck. keep us updated.

dark_islight · « **Reply #3 on:** September 12, 2008, 08:04:43 AM »

Fab the patches and weld....

dark_islight · « **Reply #4 on:** September 12, 2008, 08:11:02 AM »

Rear Fender Well

monty23psk · « **Reply #5 on:** September 12, 2008, 01:36:02 PM »

wow, great work. I need to learn metal work.

dark_islight · « **Reply #6 on:** September 13, 2008, 06:58:30 PM »

Metal work is not hard to learn, its the tools that can be expensive.

monty23psk · « **Reply #7 on:** September 14, 2008, 01:55:00 PM »

wow, you are moving along nicely and quick. Car did have lots of rust.

Tools, that's why I haven't started yet, to expensive right now just to learn.

dark_islight · « **Reply #8 on:** September 14, 2008, 06:32:41 PM »

Definitely had some rust issues after 17 years on Eastern Canada's salted winter roads.

dark_islight · « **Reply #9 on:** September 15, 2008, 07:08:53 PM »

Well the drivers floor is buttoned up. Still needs a cleaning, and I'm waiting for the POR-15 rust paint that I ordered so I can seal it up with joint sealer.

ak96ss · « **Reply #10 on:** September 15, 2008, 07:15:25 PM »

As a side note, POR-15 rocks.

monty23psk · « **Reply #11 on:** September 15, 2008, 11:32:14 PM »

POR-15 does rock. Trick to make is last is using on bare metal, not on painted surfaces.

dark_islight · « **Reply #12 on:** September 18, 2008, 06:47:46 PM »

The next adventure was rebuilding the lower fender attach point/corner box.
Individual parts fabricated from .063" thk mild steel and fitting then welding together.

Royalratch · « **Reply #13 on:** September 20, 2008, 04:55:30 AM »

That will be fine for a few winters.

But for proper long lasting repairs you must cut out ALL the rot. Absolutely every last bit.

Looks like there were some shots where you left a few inches around the cut.

But great work to get a few years motoring out of it. Rear wheel arches are such a pain...

dark_islight · « **Reply #14 on:** September 20, 2008, 08:43:34 AM »

Most of the shots you refer to were just the preliminary cuts. Those cuts were adjusted and expanded to remove the rust back to sound metal. Some edges you see surface rust and was ground out before welding.

The ("Looks like there were some shots where you left a few inches around the cut.") areas you refer to is not rust but the colour of the rubberized coating on the underside of the car.

I didn't post shots or have shots of every change, they were just to lay out the process.

I've got over 3 weeks (of nights and weekends invested) in this repair so far.

Yes the arches are a major pain, lack of space, hard to see and work while rust and dirt keeps falling in your face. :mad:

Too late for me but a friend is buying a bead roller to simplify the fabrication of new arches.:p

Thanks for the observant commentary.