Entire roof replacement...!

[Royalratch]

Looks good.

You were smart and got the rust before it got to bad.

Must be nice to own a car like that for 9 years.
That car definetly worth saving. Horizontal stiched grey sport leather interior, mtech 2 wheel, 2 owner car

Does it have 15" wheels?

Hunter

Yeah it has the 15's. But it doesn't have grey leather. It has heated Indigo Blue leather sports leather. Check my other thread in Interiors as it's getting a full renovation too:

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5258

[JP 91iS]

Damn, that is badass.  You get all kinds of respect for this project.

[Cobra Jet]

nice job!

Just curious - what is the "waxoil" you are referring to above (you've mentioned it a few times)?  Can you elaborate more about this product, how to apply it and what it does?  What color is it?

[Royalratch]

Waxoil is the E30's best friend. It's a an oil that when cools forms a wax. You spray it in every cavity you can find and it neutralizes water / moisture so that even though the water may stay it cannot form rust.

Spray it EVERYWHERE you can see inside the car with the trim removed - common areas are:

Interior wheel arches - deep inside.
Inside the front speaker cavities.
Inside all holes in engine bay.
Wiper motor cavities.
Inside the front wings.
In the trunks area under the carpet.
Inside the doors.

Because it's an oily wax it won't affect any electro-mechanical bits.
It comes as a spray or tin of oil. Heat it up in warm water and pour/spray/pump it into places.



is available on online or most good auto shops.

[Cobra Jet]

Waxoil is the E30's best friend. It's a an oil that when cools forms a wax. You spray it in every cavity you can find and it neutralizes water / moisture so that even though the water may stay it cannot form rust.

Spray it EVERYWHERE you can see inside the car with the trim removed - common areas are:

Interior wheel arches - deep inside.
Inside the front speaker cavities.
Inside all holes in engine bay.
Wiper motor cavities.
Inside the front wings.
In the trunks area under the carpet.
Inside the doors.

Because it's an oily wax it won't affect any electro-mechanical bits.
It comes as a spray or tin of oil. Heat it up in warm water and pour/spray/pump it into places.



is available on online or most good auto shops.

very interesting - I've never heard of such a product here in the States!  

Thanks for the info!

[///m42 sport]

gay...the us distributor for waxol does not sell to individuals.  It has to be applied by a "business"

[Royalratch]

Buy that shizzle on eBay dude!

[///m42 sport]

True! So waxoyl dries to a waxlike state?  Wondering because what if you need to work on the car and the underside is covered in oil?  How difficult is it to remove?

[Royalratch]

That's the point - it's all the properties of oil (which is the best rust prevention and lubrication) with none of the mess as it forms a wax coating and it does not interfere with electrical stuff as far as I know.

I wouldn't put underneath the car - you should use underseal or hammerite there.

It's for all the cavity / areas of metal you cannot see / reach. Then when it warms up in the summer or in your garage etc it 'drips' into the very narrowest of crevices and only then fully infiltrates all the areas it needs to be, which also happen to be the E30 trouble areas.

So once you've done it, let it sit for a few days somewhere warm if you can.

[Royalratch]

Right!

Got some engine work going on - am doing a full timing case overhaul and some cam adjustment as I have the
2-3000rpm rattle which is super loud. I'm also replacing the ICV which very rarely causes stalling if it is stuck cold
or dirty - the valve won't open. I secured a refurbed one as new one's are quite pricey. Makes a big difference to smooth idle
apparently.

Here's my $700+ package of parts from BMW - all original of course. Basically, everything on this page:



And this gaskets / bolts from here (using original timing case, no need to renew that)


Assorted gaskets and seals.


Chains, nylon guides sprockets etc...


Various bolts, tiny bits tensioners etc...



Also important to change the water pump and thermostat whilst you're there.

BMW water pump is over 3 times the price of OEM or copy but I don't think you can skimp on such an important part.


This is booked in and will be done in a weeks time or so. Then I will throw my new interior in along with some modest ICE,
a new headlining and then this thing will be finally finished and I can get driving - my current drive is an E46 but it bores me to tears.

[Cobra Jet]

I will say - when doing the timing cover gaskets, use a small amount of sealant on them, otherwise you may experience oil seepage or leaks through the new gaskets.  

My M42 was rebuilt using all brand new gaskets and we have to tear down the front timing cover assembly, because the new gaskets have been leaking oil since the engine was reinstalled & running...  I don't know if the issue is poor gasket quality OR if there was to be sealant used during reassembly (no manuals had stated to use sealant on those gaskets and when the engine was initially taken apart for the rebuild, no sealant was there on the original gaskets or areas)...  All of the front timing cover bolts were and are all torqued to factory spec per the Bentley and any online manuals...  Like I said, we are going to be tearing down my whole front timing assembly to install new gaskets AND will be using sealant this time around...  To do it twice is a PIA and I don't intend on doing it a third time.

[Royalratch]

My garage is doing it and they have been doing them for 11 years so I know they'll do a good job - I would love to have a go but living in Central London I neither have the space, time or special cam timing tools.

You probably know all this guy but for others, this is a good resource for this job:

http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#timingchain

[Royalratch]

I will say - when doing the timing cover gaskets, use a small amount of sealant on them, otherwise you may experience oil seepage or leaks through the new gaskets.  

My M42 was rebuilt using all brand new gaskets and we have to tear down the front timing cover assembly, because the new gaskets have been leaking oil since the engine was reinstalled & running...  I don't know if the issue is poor gasket quality OR if there was to be sealant used during reassembly (no manuals had stated to use sealant on those gaskets and when the engine was initially taken apart for the rebuild, no sealant was there on the original gaskets or areas)...  All of the front timing cover bolts were and are all torqued to factory spec per the Bentley and any online manuals...  Like I said, we are going to be tearing down my whole front timing assembly to install new gaskets AND will be using sealant this time around...  To do it twice is a PIA and I don't intend on doing it a third time.

Sure you don't have facing issues between head / block / timing case etc?
As I wasn't aware of sealant to be used either, leaks usualy mean cracks or
warped surfaces from overheating engines.

[Royalratch]

This is done and I'll post pics of the interior going back in as well as some newly painted bits.

[///M3]

glad your taking care of it