I concur, it may very well be the crank position sensor, but to confirm that you are in fact getting power to the pump, let's go over how the start circuit works for the fuel pump (as I understand it, anyway!).
Power comes from the junction block down the yellow line to the DME all the time, but the DME doesn't send it into the starting circuit until it senses that you have the key on. So, the blue, green, and red lines have power, but aren't doing anything with it yet.
When you turn the key to the ON position, it grounds the green line at port 27 (Main Relay Control), causing the green line to have power all the way through the main relay via tabs 85 and 86.
This energizes the coil and pulls the relay closed, sending power through the main relay from tab 30 to tab 87, and from there to (among other places) the fuel pump relay's tab 86. But the fuel pump relay's tab 85 is still not grounded, so power doesn't go through yet.
The DME checks to make sure that the engine is rotating using the crank position sensor - when it sees that the engine is in fact moving, it grounds the fuel pump relay control at port 1, completing the blue circuit.
Now that the blue circuit has power going through it, the fuel pump relay coil pulls in, energizing the red line and sending power through tabs 30 and 87 to fuse 11.
Assuming fuse 11 is good, power goes to the fuel pump, and it starts pumping fuel.
If the crank position sensor is malfunctioning, the DME won't know that the engine is turning, so it won't turn on the fuel pump.
So, to systematically test and make sure that the circuits are working as they should, start with a fused jumper wire at the fuel pump relay. I actually use a switched, fused jumper, so I can turn it on and off from the engine area. For all of these tests, when I say 'ignition on' I mean in the RUN position, not the ACCESSORY position.
First, exchange fuse 11 with another fuse (same or lower amp rating, never higher). Just in case the fuse is bad, but still looks OK. It's rare, but it does happen. See if it will start. If not...
Remove the fuel pump relay. Insert one end of your jumper wire into the hole where tab 30 goes, and the other end into the hole where tab 87 goes. With the ignition on, the pump should start pumping. If it does not, but your fuel pump works when hooked directly to +12V, then you have a problem in the wiring between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump.
If that works, but it doesn't when the relay is in, you may have a bad relay. You can test the relay by applying +12V to tab 86 and grounding tab 85. Now check continuity between tabs 30 and 87 - there should be virtually no resistance. If there is a lot of resistance, or there is no continuity, replace the relay.
If the relay works, it may very well be the crank position sensor. Get out your multimeter and check the hole where tab 86 of the fuel pump relay goes. With the key on, there should be +12V there. If there is, then I would strongly suspect the crank position sensor.
If there isn't, you'll have to do the same tests on the main relay.
