Author Topic: monty23psk (Read 140932 times)

monty23psk · « **Reply #330 on:** October 25, 2020, 02:32:59 PM »

Thanks

monty23psk · « **Reply #331 on:** November 20, 2020, 11:11:34 PM »

I started a project at the start of Covid to redo my sound deadening in the interior, starting with driver door. Very slow project to say the least. I have removed all the peel and seal, this took the longest but a heat gun, plastic scrapers, and mineral spirits did the job, if anyone is wondering and wants to tackle this effort. This product, which worked fine but of a lesser quality, uses asphalt (not healthy), and wanted to upgrade to something better. I have now installed the Damplifier Pro sheets from Secondskin based on different articles and recommendations online. 100% coverage is overkill but I added where it made sense and does not get in the way of the operational aspect of the inner skin. This will help with vibration, some road noise, and help keep car cooler which is nice here in Miami. I will add some to the outer skin behind door panel, to help some of the center metal that does flex. I did clean the inner area and started to order replacement parts for a few items so when I paint the car, I have them on-hand.

Here is quick phone picture showing some of the product installed. I used a roller to make sure no air is trapped. The material is much better and really cuts back on the vibration, which is noticeable just opening and closing the door. The sticky paper does work and pulls off lots of debris.

In regards to the replacement parts, I am going to re-grease some of the window mechanism and will provide product usage. Currently waiting on delivery of them. Hopefully this help someone and wanted all to know. The window guide/track/channel that is a flocked rubber material is currently on backorder from BMW. I know of someone waiting 1.5 years so far. I added myself on the list as well but for now, I wanted to clean 30 year parts without damaging the rubber. I have some cracks and can't let it get worst. I researched how to clean flocked (suede/velvet) rubber material and looking up jewelry organizers helped me. Not much out there as many liquids or cleaners will remove the flock portion. A good vacuum while brushing a small detailers brush helps but still more is required. I then pull a few sheets off a lint roller per my research, and using the blunt part of the brush, stuff it in, and run it along the flock material to adhere and then I can pull it at 90 degrees, to maker sure not to smear any of the dirt/lint. Here is a picture:

monty23psk · « **Reply #332 on:** January 20, 2021, 09:32:03 PM »

PSA to all e30 owners....

Over on r3v, there is a build thread by Albie325, who was filled in by mjweimer. Thank you guys. Since he painted the car, there are some hood bump stops that are probably gone on all e30s due to rubber falling apart due to age. I got them for now and added a pair for when I paint the car. BMW PN is 51231916567. Besides protecting the paint and metal, you dont hear the metal to metal tapping when opening the hood.

Here is a pick of the two parts:

20210118_230847

Before:

20210120_215624

After:

20210120_221437

bmwman91 · « **Reply #333 on:** January 21, 2021, 10:16:48 PM »

Holy crap, I definitely want some of those rubber stops! Good posting there.

Also, I think I need some of those E28 M5 wheels...even the 15" Euroweaves are too small to really get any "good" tires for anymore, other than max-perf semi-slicks lol. As much fun as those are...I'd rather have tires that don't come with a warning to not use them when the temperature is <40�F lol. What is the PN for the wheels you used? It looks like there are different Style 5 versions (offset and width). I assume ET20 & 7.5" wide is what you used?

monty23psk · « **Reply #334 on:** January 22, 2021, 07:47:26 AM »

Quote from: bmwman91 on January 21, 2021, 10:16:48 PM

Holy crap, I definitely want some of those rubber stops! Good posting there.

Also, I think I need some of those E28 M5 wheels...even the 15" Euroweaves are too small to really get any "good" tires for anymore, other than max-perf semi-slicks lol. As much fun as those are...I'd rather have tires that don't come with a warning to not use them when the temperature is <40�F lol. What is the PN for the wheels you used? It looks like there are different Style 5 versions (offset and width). I assume ET20 & 7.5" wide is what you used?

Many options for 16" wheels. E28 m5 will still require 5-lug or a re-drill. The wheels are still available, PN 36112225518. Not cheap as about $450 each new. Still can get them used but can take a while. Took me 3 years to get a full set a reasonable price, ~$150 per wheel, requiring a refinish.

Correct, these are ET20 and 7.5" wide. The e30 m3 evo wheels are ET27. Going 16" also gives you more options for BBKs.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #335 on:** January 22, 2021, 04:16:16 PM »

Ha, so I spent an hour last night refreshing myself on 5 lug swap info...it's more money and work than I want to undertake at the moment lol. Still, I assume that ET27 is a lot easier to fit than ET20, or is ET20 fine if you do the 5 lug swap with E36 parts?

monty23psk · « **Reply #336 on:** January 23, 2021, 11:13:17 AM »

if you do go e36, I believe ET20 will work but you will need to roll fenders and wheel/tire width do matter. I believe the e36 wheels have a larger offset from factory compared to e30s. So it is doable but might be more work and calculations. I hear you about the work effort and price which is why I went with e30 m3. I got lucky and paid $1k for everything included slotted sub-frame about 7-8 years ago. I did have to source calipers but that was much easier.

Other option and not cheap, going coilovers from GC and then just using e30 m3 hubs in the rear. More $ but more plug and play and better suspension in the end.

Not cheaper but might be inline with the amount to time and cost to retro and just make your own or buy custom 4x100 wheels or find re-drilled ones. BBS RS can fit the bill for this but $3k for nice ones re-drilled.

monty23psk · « **Reply #337 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:48:12 PM »

Continuing with the driver door rebuild. I remove the window glass to polish it and remove some scratches. I took this opportunity to refresh the regulator and motor. I disassembled the motor to clean out all the dried out grease. I used mineral spirits upon research to not damage the plastic gear. I then applied a good amount of grease made for applications like this. Grease seen in one of the photos.

I also cleaned up the regulator metal and then gave it a nice coat of a rust protector satin black paint and it now resembles some newer regulators. The exposed galvanized metal always looks dirty. I will apply grease on the regulator rollers as well as the tracks on the glass upon install. I have some silicone lube in a spray can from WD40 with the straw nozzle to apply to channels to smooth out the up/down operation even further.

Before:

After:

monty23psk · « **Reply #338 on:** January 28, 2021, 11:54:31 PM »

Got a little something a week ago for a small issue I have had for the last 3 years.

This is the OBC LCD repair kit from Germany. Very simple to remove and replace LCD.

Here is a before and after. Glad I can see that outdoor temp now....

monty23psk · « **Reply #339 on:** January 30, 2021, 12:13:56 AM »

Finally after waiting long enough, I got the steering wheel I wanted to match the interior which is m3 Evo sport inspired. I got a great deal on a recovered 370mm mtech 2 steering wheel, covered in alcantara, with M tri-color stitching. I used a highly reputable shop in Germany that does BMW and Porsche steering wheels. . I received it in under 2 weeks as well. I did buy a pack of disposable plastic steering wheels, that dealers and shops use. This, if my hands are dirty, I can pop one off to extend the life of the alcantara. Now to figure what to do with the 385mm Mtech1 wheel.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #340 on:** January 30, 2021, 09:05:14 PM »

Nice looking steering wheel!

monty23psk · « **Reply #341 on:** January 31, 2021, 06:01:22 PM »

Thanks. Took it out for a long drive to a cars and coffee. Very nice to hold on to the Alcantara and still getting used it it. I never want to touch it, so not damage it. Also, the smaller diameter, to be honest, is not the noticeable on a highway cruise or around town. Might be more in spirited driving. I wished the column did have a tilt function like newer cars.

monty23psk · « **Reply #342 on:** February 15, 2021, 07:45:30 PM »

Here is the 2nd phase of the sound proofing of the driver door. I am using another Second Skin product, called Overkill closed cell foam. I opted for the thinner version as I didnt want it too thick and the door panel push on it. I am using this to not only help with sound absorption, but to replace the plastic vapor barrier. I still have some in a roll from BMW of OEM vapor adhesive plastic, but going to try this out. I need to test it some more and if all looks ok, do a water test to make sure no leaks are noticed. Here is a quick picture of it installed. The bottom right looks odd because of the indentions on the door inner metal to the material needs to curve in/out.

20210212_203643

bmwman91 · « **Reply #343 on:** February 25, 2021, 07:28:04 PM »

That looks like a nice clean install. I did the same thing with some 3mm closed cell foam sheeting, but I guess I had a hole in the lower-rear part of it (passenger door) which was letting a lot of water in and under the carpet. I pulled it out and covered that opening in the door frame with some aluminum HVAC tape (multiple overlapped strips pulled tight). You should have no problem getting the trim panel back on with just the foam. Like a dummy (a decade ago) I also put Damplifier on (before the foam) and the panel did not fit well. It turns out that the rubber compound is a real pain to remove...

monty23psk · « **Reply #344 on:** February 25, 2021, 10:03:43 PM »

In my trials I found a little seepage of water because of a gap. But I figured how to fix it and just waiting for. a little move material to test my theory. My old plastic vapor barrier, even after 10 years grew a crack and door will would get wet, luckily it never came into car but car normally is in my garage during down pours. I did see your install and used this product because of it. Just not going over kill with adding more than I need too. A little more is better that what came with our car from the factory.

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