Author Topic: powersteering delete  (Read 4424 times)

hoevesruperd

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powersteering delete
« on: January 13, 2008, 11:15:43 AM »
i am in the process of doing a powersteering delete.
if anyone has ever done that, i'd be interested to know how to link both sides of the rack together so the fluid can move freely. i will plug the fluid holes on the columns with M14 screws but i have no clue on how to link both sides

the only idea that comes to my mind is that i could cut the metal line and fix flexible fuel lines to them but thats a bit sketchy, i'd rather do a clean job.

anyone know the thread of the metal rails? so i could buy an hollow screw to fix the hoses to it??
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=32_0045&hg=32&fg=10
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=32_0186&hg=32&fg=20
Alex

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hoevesruperd

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powersteering delete
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2008, 12:09:17 PM »
for those interested: the feeling without power steering is good. you're actually driving the car and not the opposite.

still looking for a way to delete the system completely. yet i just took off the belt to get the feel

i would just need to know whats the thread on the fluid lines. thanks so much
« Last Edit: January 13, 2008, 12:37:04 PM by hoevesruperd »
Alex

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AL GReeNeRy

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powersteering delete
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2008, 12:32:42 AM »
some people loop the inlet and outlet port where the power steering pump lines used to be. i used pipe plugs to block off the ports..

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2890
1991 318is : brilliantrot

oldtimer

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« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2008, 06:46:33 AM »
I simply just removed the belt.  My accessment, if the rack lines are loop making it a sealed unit you will eventually build some pressure in the unit would find a way to leak out through the seals.  Having fluid running through it will still allow for some lubircation hence not induce a metal to metal condition internally.

Without the system functional it is barely noticable.  Look at it this way it is a low impact upper body workout.

hoevesruperd

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« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2008, 09:04:30 AM »
Quote from: oldtimer;41244
I simply just removed the belt.  My accessment, if the rack lines are loop making it a sealed unit you will eventually build some pressure in the unit would find a way to leak out through the seals.  Having fluid running through it will still allow for some lubircation hence not induce a metal to metal condition internally.

Without the system functional it is barely noticable.  Look at it this way it is a low impact upper body workout.


i understand the issue of the pressure buildup but i'd like to clear the engine bay, and i believe the system is a considerable weight that will have to go

what are the bmw racks that don't use PS ? maybe i can inspire myself of their design or simply replace it
Alex

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pbgd3skier

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« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2008, 12:07:21 PM »
I would flush the rack a few times, get good juice in there.

Then with both plugs off run it lock to lock several times, then it doesn't matter if you get the right plugs, or just make a loop.

Remove all that nasty build up and good to go.
1991 BMW e30 318i
1980 BMW R80/7

hoevesruperd

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« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2008, 01:58:45 PM »
thanks. i will fill with new Redline fluid and flush a few times when the weather is nicer and the idea of running it open from lock to lock would insure no pressure buildup although would there be enough fluid for lubrication?
Alex

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pbgd3skier

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« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2008, 02:28:16 PM »
I don't think the rack needs a ton of lubrication, its not like its a bearing surface spinning several thousand rpm under load.

And it'll have a film of lubrication in it at all time, because you aren't draining it out fully you are just removing the pressure from the rack so that it doesn't lock up from fluid pressure.

Another option would be to create a grease zerk out of the old line fittings by silver soldering or brazing a zerk fitting into the fitting, squirt a few pumps of grease into both sides and work it in back and forth for awhile.  Don't know how stiff this would make it, probably better if the rack was worn badly but most boats have greased steering cables, same thought basically.

I'd stick to the first or making a loop, don't feel the loop is needed if you lock to lock the rack a few times to remove excess.  If you want to have the rack full then the fluid is probably needed.
1991 BMW e30 318i
1980 BMW R80/7

pbgd3skier

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« Reply #8 on: January 15, 2008, 02:29:06 PM »
I wouldn't bother w/ redline in the rack.  gas station 1$ atf is more than enough quality for your powersteering rack, particularly since you are eliminating the ps anyway.
1991 BMW e30 318i
1980 BMW R80/7

hoevesruperd

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« Reply #9 on: January 15, 2008, 02:57:07 PM »
thanks thats exactly what i wanted to know, i will opt for the drain and plugs. would you know the size of the plugs i need?
Alex

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pbgd3skier

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« Reply #10 on: January 15, 2008, 03:06:21 PM »
that previous thread has them listed.  metric 14 and 16.  Just open it up and browse down, also more discussion about plugged vs. looped.
1991 BMW e30 318i
1980 BMW R80/7

hoevesruperd

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« Reply #11 on: January 15, 2008, 04:43:20 PM »
thanks!!
Alex

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AL GReeNeRy

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« Reply #12 on: January 17, 2008, 07:19:11 AM »
yup check the link above if you need some info.  to confirm what was previously said, racks dont need fluid/lubrication and pressure does not build up.  the ATF was what was used to help "assist" the rack in moving.  ive had a sealed rack for almost a year and plan on doing the same to my new z3 rack.
1991 318is : brilliantrot