Author Topic: Deleting throttle body heater plate. (Read 87826 times)

bmwpower · « **Reply #15 on:** September 06, 2007, 10:54:48 PM »

Quote from: cecotto;32898

.

On my engine the hoses: 11+13+16+25+26+17+18+14+15 will all be deleted, and the red outlet pluged.

Why is it that you can't simply connect the red square nipple with a hose coming from the green circled pipe nipple (near clamp 20)?

bmwpower · « **Reply #16 on:** September 06, 2007, 10:56:54 PM »

Quote from: D. Clay;32896

Anyone else plugged the opening the head?
Link to thread with pics of two cracked heads, both with cracks between exhaust valves and the water jacket.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3427&highlight=head
Is this where the heads usually crack? I haven't driven the car yet as it's still going back together. I am also searching for references to this on the E30 sites.
I just noticed after reading the above thread that there are only very small holes in the head gasket by the exhaust valves. Anyone know the reason for this? The water jackets are almost completely covered.

I believe I mentioned the answer in the thread...

cecotto · « **Reply #17 on:** September 07, 2007, 07:15:43 AM »

Quote from: bmwpower;33264

Why is it that you can't simply connect the red square nipple with a hose coming from the green circled pipe nipple (near clamp 20)?

I could do that, but in my opinion that would not be the simplest approach.

Why would i connect the two points together when i want to cancel the whole arrangement.

And the water that gets looped through the system is not cooling cylinder # 4 either.

So in my opinion this is the best solution, atleast for me

:-p

tjts1 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 07, 2007, 03:30:54 PM »

So has anybody plugged up the 2 ports in question and driven the car any distance yet? Im really interested to see how this turns out. Do we have a difinative answer?

D. Clay · « **Reply #19 on:** September 07, 2007, 10:09:19 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;33326

So has anybody plugged up the 2 ports in question and driven the car any distance yet? Im really interested to see how this turns out. Do we have a difinative answer?

No problems here. I took it out on a two lane and ran it 80 to 85 MPH for about 3 miles. Gauge never moved.
I'll use some braided hose with plugs clamped in them but I'm tired of thrashing on it right now. The "Help" caps should last for a month or two at the least. It's only 16 pounds pressure.

tjts1 · « **Reply #20 on:** September 07, 2007, 10:24:59 PM »

Cool. Did you have any trouble bleeding the system or did the normal procedure work to get all the air bubbles out.

D. Clay · « **Reply #21 on:** September 08, 2007, 11:53:51 AM »

The bleed screw on my radiator stripped a few years ago. I bleed it by taking the upper hose loose and holding it up higher than the radiator. It works just as well but you spill some putting it back on. No problems bleeding but I had to do it a second time because I forgot to turn the heater on.

tjts1 · « **Reply #22 on:** September 09, 2007, 10:41:45 PM »

I was looking through an M42 build thread from South Africa and noticed the bolt between cyl 2 and 3.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433471&page=3

I guess this modification is totally safe after all.

bmwpower · « **Reply #23 on:** September 09, 2007, 11:19:17 PM »

Did he tap the nipple? Or is a bolt simply welded in place? Interesting...

D. Clay · « **Reply #24 on:** September 10, 2007, 12:17:19 PM »

Quote from: BrandC;32848

I'm not sure what you are trying to explain in the bottom paragraph about the ICV connections and such. Could you show us some more pictures to explain?

In it's original location, the bottom line out of the ICV valve is right over the heater hose. The OEM BMW hose has a sharp 90 degree bend. #13 in the realoem pic. Bracket #9 is the one I bent to move the ICV hose to clear the heater hose.

The South African M42 has a good solution to the possible leak problem.

Intrudah · « **Reply #25 on:** October 03, 2007, 04:07:54 PM »

I just plugged both hoses, and removed the plates completely.
Works fine! I use the car every day, and have driven about 6000km with no heat plates.

Christophbmw: I haven't tried the car in cold weather with this setup yet. But the TB did freeze up sometimes in cold winter weather WITH the heat plates still on. I think this was caused by the open air filter (KN) I used.

Frankie · « **Reply #26 on:** October 04, 2007, 03:04:13 PM »

What is the point to delete the heater plate??

tjts1 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 04, 2007, 07:29:03 PM »

To get rid of all the hoses under the intake.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2742

BrandC · « **Reply #28 on:** October 05, 2007, 11:38:31 AM »

Quote from: tjts1;35018

To get rid of all the hoses under the intake.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2742

Pics no workie Justin.

tjts1 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 05, 2007, 01:45:30 PM »

They still work on my end. Hit reload. Flickr is fickle sometimes.