Timing equipment rebuild questions

[gearheadE30]

WEll, now that school is almost over (YAY!!!) I'm trying to get geared up to do a timing system overhaul. Just as an idea of the condition, the engine has mostly highway miles but it has the original tensioner, guides, chain, gears, everything. And it has 200k miles.

My current plan is to take the intake out and clean it, remove the timing covers, cam cover, and t-stat cover as well as all of the parts needing removel to get to them. Then I will replace the guides, tensioner, and chain. I haven't taken a look at the gears yet, but I haven't been able to find new ones anyway. All new gaskets will go on as well as a new t-stat upon rebuild. I have heard many say that it is also good to check the oil pans, so I will be dropping the upper and lower pans to clean them and check for loose bolts and check the oil pump screen. New gaskets used there, too.

I'm not sure if I should remove the intake heater plate yet as I live in an area that gets down to about 5 degrees once in a blue moon. Any opinions? Pros/cons?

Depending on the amount of sludge, I may get the head cleaned, but I don't know if there is anything cost-effective to do while I am in there.

I know many of you have rebuilt engines, so any info regarding things to do while it is all apart or pitfalls I will run into would be great.

Hopefully I'll have some pics posted soon, I know everyone loves them

[D. Clay]

I would drop the lower oil pan first. If there's no plastic or ground up metal, I would just replace the tensioner. You can see the cam gears and chain at the top. If the cam gears aren't pointedly sharp and the top of the guides look good, I would leave it alone. You probably have another 50,000 miles until you will need an engine anyway.

[rhogg]

So is pointedly sharp actually mean a point?

My upper cogs have a very thin flat top to them. - nowhere near as sharp as a bike cog, but also a long way from the chunky top of a new cog.  The car has 120K miles on it.  I replaced my tensioner but the one that came out looked quite new.  I do have that whooshing  noise from about 28/3000 rpm on up.

I figure this means get to it sooner rather than later but I'm ok for now.  Any thoughts?

[Cristian G in Oz]

I do have that whooshing  noise from about 28/3000 rpm on up.

I figure this means get to it sooner rather than later but I'm ok for now.  Any thoughts?

You might well find that the 'whoosing' noise is the engine driven cooling fan.

If your tensioner and chain are playing up you wont get a whooshing noise it will be more like a rattle.

Cristian

[gearheadE30]

I eventually plan to do a more major rebuild, with high-compression pistons, shaved head, M50 lifters, schrick or similar cams, stuff along those lines. I just don't have the $$ right now and would like the engine to last a few more years until I do. Even then, I hear of a lot of people over on bf.c who seem to have more than 300k on these engines. Are they just lucky?

[D. Clay]

I hear of a lot of people over on bf.c who seem to have more than 300k on these engines. Are they just lucky?

It comes down to the type of use and the degree of maintenance. Flog the crap out of them and they won't last as long. Use good oil and change it regularly. On a rebuilt engine start with synthetic. Some people relate to them as old cars and just drive them.  The problem is that most E30's have been through about three owners by the time we get them and it's the rare one that has records.

[sheepdog]

I eventually plan to do a more major rebuild, with high-compression pistons, shaved head, M50 lifters, schrick or similar cams, stuff along those lines. I just don't have the $$ right now and would like the engine to last a few more years until I do. Even then, I hear of a lot of people over on bf.c who seem to have more than 300k on these engines. Are they just lucky?

Considering this, save your money.

Pull only the lower pan, and valve cover. Check for debris, tighten (and locktite?) the pan bolts inside, and check your cam gears. If they look worn at all (post a pic), replace the tensioner and close it back up.


No point in pulling the upper pan unless you have to replace the oil pump or timing chain housing. It is a hassle and will not accomplish anything. Nothing there. Anything inside will have made its way to the lower pan.


Save your money and just do your rebuild a bit sooner, doing what you are looking to do, is almost 1/3 the cost and the work of a rebuild.

[gearheadE30]

The problem is that most E30's have been through about three owners by the time we get them and it's the rare one that has records.

My car does happen to have complete records, so I got lucky. It has been very well taken care of.

As for the future major rebuild, I'm still not sure what I am going to do. The naturally-aspirated rebuild with all of the custom work is a bit pricy, so I'm not sure yet. I want the engine to be as reliable as possible either way, as I am considering a DASC setup as it seems to be reliable, makes a lot of power, and is *fairly* chap compared to a complete rebuild. It really will come down to the shape my engine and wallet are in in about four years. That is the target time for something major...

Also, thanks for the info on the oil pan. Saves countless hours of letting oil drip  on my face...

[rhogg]

Good information guys, thanks.

Here is a picture of my upper cogs.  You can clearly see wear if you compare them to pictures of new cogs, but you can also see there are still flat tops on each tooth. I don't consider this "sharp" and with the abscence of hooking and rattles figure I still have some time.  Will pull the lower pan though and check it out next oil change.

Thanks again

[gearheadE30]

This is what they are supposed to look like, although I'm not sure if this is an M42 gear

[ak96ss]

I would say those are getting pretty darn close to needing to be replaced, myself...

[tjts1]

I took the valve cover to do the tensioner (not really necessary) as well as inspect the health of the cam sprockets. The engine has 139k miles with conventional oil change every 3k.





I see a little bit of rounding on the edges but not as bad as the one pictured above.


Letting it soak in carb cleaner over night.

[gearheadE30]

Wow, that looks pretty good to me. Really hope mine looks that good when I do the preliminary checking this weekend...

[rhogg]

" I see a little bit of rounding on the edges but not as bad as the one pictured above. "....  Thanks for making me feel good!    

Control arms arrived today  -  I guess the timing chain and sprockets are the next job.

[gearheadE30]

Mine are very similar to the ones posted by rohgg. The problem is that it doesn't seem like there is any place to buy M42 sprockets online. Any help?