Author Topic: Engine Leak (Read 7146 times)

Eurospec · « **on:** April 07, 2006, 09:16:56 PM »

Just noticed a puddle much larger than the one pictured below that appears to be a coolant/oil mixture.

Is it a water hose? Seems as if the clamp is loose. Pls excuse my n00bness

ak96ss · « **Reply #1 on:** April 07, 2006, 10:38:30 PM »

Yeah, that's a water pipe (hard plastic) but realoem.com doesn't seem to show a part number. You can try tightening it, but be careful - you don't want to crack it. It's probably just coolant, but it has mixed with the oil you appear to have all over the back side of your filter housing. Clean that off!

I have a brand new one sitting on the shelf in my garage, I can get a part number off of it tomorrow if you like.

[EDIT] Found it! I knew I had found the part number before - it just isn't in the COOLING section. Go to realoem.com for your car, then navigate to ENGINE -> ENGINE HOUSING -> ENGINE BLOCK MOUNTING PARTS. It is item #1, 11531714738.[/EDIT]

Eurospec · « **Reply #2 on:** April 07, 2006, 11:46:27 PM »

You've had a similar problem in the past?

ak96ss · « **Reply #3 on:** April 08, 2006, 12:19:52 AM »

Nope, but I recognize the part from when I stripped the intake manifold off and replaced all the rubber lines. I bought another one of the tubes 'cause they were cheap and I didn't want to get half-way through the job and have to special order parts. I've kept it because I intend to replace it the next time I am in there... whenever that may be.

I would recommend cleaning that area with a good degreaser (POR-15 Marine Clean or Simple Green), seeing if you can tighten that fitting, and driving some more - see what the leak looks like, if it is still leaking. If it isn't leaking, you're good. If it is, I would bet it is just coolant. It looks like that pipe may have been leaking for a while, judging from the buildup on it.

You haven't noticed oil in the coolant tank, or coolant on the dipstick, have you?

Eurospec · « **Reply #4 on:** April 08, 2006, 12:25:34 AM »

I'll definitely take a closer look tomorrow and see if there's any oil in the places you mentioned. Thanks!

ak96ss · « **Reply #5 on:** April 08, 2006, 12:34:49 AM »

It may just be that that hose is going South, too. If that's the case, I would recommend replacing all of those hoses... if one is going, the others surely can't be too far behind. That, BTW, is why I did all of my rubber hoses. Had to pull the intake manifold off to replace the 2" rubber lines at the fuel rail, since they were leaking raw fuel onto my starter. As long as I have the intake manifold off, may as well replace all of the rubber that is under there, so I don't have to go in again...

Which then led to:
-replacing all the rubber fuel lines.
-replacing all the coolant hoses.
-having the injectors rebuilt and flowtested.
-replacing the vacuum lines.
-replacing the intake manifold gaskets.
-painting the intake manifold.
-painting the valve cover.
-helicoiling 7 of the 13 bolts that hold the valve cover on, since the PO subscribed to the 'peace through overwhelming torque' theory of leak control.
-the list goes on...

Needless to say, it turned in to a larger project than I intended...

Eurospec · « **Reply #6 on:** April 08, 2006, 12:49:56 AM »

I have a somewhat limited backround when it comes to this type of work so I'm a bit hesitant as to whether I should put some elbowgrease into this. I am on spring break though so I may go at it with the help of my dad. Sure wish I had the aptitude and knowledge that many of you do, including yourself.

Anywho, I really appreciate your input John... danke!

christophbmw · « **Reply #7 on:** April 08, 2006, 11:05:49 AM »

Quote from: Eurospec

You've had a similar problem in the past?

me too, when replaceing any of the hoses that attach to it it might break, i was gentle W/ mine and it broke.

Quote from: ak96ss

-helicoiling 7 of the 13 bolts that hold the valve cover on, since the PO subscribed to the 'peace through overwhelming torque' theory of leak control.

Ha! thats funny, i had to do the same, i think i did about 7 or 8. The dumbass that worked on it before me tightend them WAY to much. Now that i look back i should have installed studs so when i take the valve cover off again i wont have to worry about the other ones stripping.

Eurospec · « **Reply #8 on:** April 09, 2006, 01:06:49 AM »

Which gaskets will I need to replace, intake manifold, throttle body. Am I missing any others?

ak96ss · « **Reply #9 on:** April 09, 2006, 07:17:55 AM »

Quote from: Eurospec

Which gaskets will I need to replace, intake manifold, throttle body. Am I missing any others?

If you can get to it with just the upper manifold off, you'll just need to replace the upper manifold gasket and the throttle body gaskets. IIRC, there are two gaskets for the throttle body, one on each side of the heater plate. I think I would replace both the upper and lower manifold gaskets, just to be on the safe side - it would suck to replace just the upper, then develop an air leak on the lower side in six months...

Plus I don't think I could get to those heater lines with just the upper off, but it has been a few years, so I may be wrong.

This is an excellent opportunity to replace all the rubber under there, too - the FPR vacuum line, the coolant hoses, and the emissions-related stuff: the hose to the ICV, the hose to the charcoal canister, the short 2" sections of 8mm fuel line that connect the fuel rail to the fuel lines, etc.

The nuts that hold the upper manifold to the lower manifold, and the lower manifold to the head, are those single-use 13mm ones that are supposed to be replaced if you remove them. You should be able to reuse them, though, just add a little Loctite to them when you put them back on. (That's a 13mm socket to remove them, not a 13mm stud they fit on, just to be clear!)

AND, you can also replace the o-rings for the fuel injectors now, as well, since you'll be able to access them with the upper manifold off.

I would (or I should say, I did) have my injectors cleaned and rebuilt by Rich at Cruzin' Performance (http://www.cruzinperformance.com) while I had it all off, in addition to all the other stuff. I hate having to pull something apart more than once if I can replace everything at the same time. Injector servicing ran around $11/ea for the injectors and included new pintles, screens, and o-rings. You're supposed to replace the injector clips when you remove them, but mine were in good shape so I reused them.

I also painted my upper and lower manifold sections while I had them off, since I got tired of looking at cosmoline. POR-15's Marine Clean does a great job of stripping the 15-year old crap off before painting, or you could take them in and have them stripped and powdercoated.

I've attached a few pictures of the work in progress when I did it.

e9nine · « **Reply #10 on:** April 09, 2006, 09:19:06 AM »

Quote from: ak96ss

-helicoiling 7 of the 13 bolts that hold the valve cover on, since the PO subscribed to the 'peace through overwhelming torque' theory of leak control.

Yeah I can totally relate to that. People need to lay off on the excessive use of force. What get's me is...if you over tighten one bolt...would'nt you know NOT to repeat the same for the others :confused: I am yet to "fix" king kong's handywork though...

As mentioned in the above post, replace everything while you're in there. That's part of my basic "overhaul" for newly acquired m42s along with the fuel lines and vaccum lines for the brake booster. At this age, if the PO didn't do some of these recently, chances are you will do it, so do it while you're at other things. It might seem like a lot of $$ but it's worth it.

I admit that I drive my car hard in auto-x and on the track when I can so these things all serve for a peace of mind. Even if you simply daily drive your car, these simple things are a must-do and save even more costly repairs later on.

ak96ss · « **Reply #11 on:** April 09, 2006, 09:31:43 AM »

Quote from: e9nine

Yeah I can totally relate to that. People need to lay off on the excessive use of force. What get's me is...if you over tighten one bolt...would'nt you know NOT to repeat the same for the others :confused: I am yet to "fix" king kong's handywork though...

Ah, but he DID fix it - he used some sort of 'Fix-A-Thread' goop in all of the bolt holes.

Sorta like a bandaid on a sucking chest wound... it may slow the bleeding, but it ain't helpin' anything!

Eurospec · « **Reply #12 on:** April 16, 2006, 06:55:44 PM »

Ok, successfully removed the TB and manifold and now have a couple questions before I proceed.

-One of the stud bolts that holds the Manifold in place came undone. Should I take any extra precautions? As for tightening all the bolts, do they need to be torqued to a certain spec?

-Would you guys recommend I clean the manifold and throttle body? If so, would carb cleaner do the job?

ak96ss · « **Reply #13 on:** April 16, 2006, 07:09:58 PM »

I just loctited the studs back in (pulled them all if they would come out and reinserted). They are supposed to be tightened to a certain spec, I believe it is in the E36 Bentley, but "good 'n' snug" would probably work fine. If you don't have the E36 Bentley, it is....

wait, let me look.....

15nm or 11 ft-lb. Same for the cam cover.

I would use throttle body cleaner, in theory it is less damaging than carb cleaner, but really... either will work. I'd rinse it off when you're done, though.

kowalski · « **Reply #14 on:** April 16, 2006, 09:17:41 PM »

Quote from: e9nine

Yeah I can totally relate to that. People need to lay off on the excessive use of force. What get's me is...if you over tighten one bolt...would'nt you know NOT to repeat the same for the others :confused: I am yet to "fix" king kong's handywork though...

As mentioned in the above post, replace everything while you're in there. That's part of my basic "overhaul" for newly acquired m42s along with the fuel lines and vaccum lines for the brake booster. At this age, if the PO didn't do some of these recently, chances are you will do it, so do it while you're at other things. It might seem like a lot of $$ but it's worth it.

I admit that I drive my car hard in auto-x and on the track when I can so these things all serve for a peace of mind. Even if you simply daily drive your car, these simple things are a must-do and save even more costly repairs later on.

i did 9 of my threads:p and i still have one more to do. its not always from over tightening, it can also be from the lack of use of anti-sieze