Author Topic: The mess under the intake (Read 330967 times)

nomad · « **Reply #90 on:** May 23, 2008, 03:48:52 PM »

I suppose instead of a rubber cap you could put a nice big stainless steel bolt in the hose and hoseclamp them on there... I checked my wrapped hose and it looks fine still.

batsbats · « **Reply #91 on:** May 23, 2008, 06:15:16 PM »

Quote from: batsbats;49972

OK, so I decided to go this route instead of just changing all the cracked lines like I was originally planning. Looks sooo much cleaner with just the plastic tube and the one coolant line from the block to the the plastic tube.

Man, so much gunk in the ports and lower manifold! What's good to clean them out? Brake cleaner + brush?

Also I live in NJ, so I guess I'll guinea and let you guys know if I run into problems down the line in the winter. I'll be keeping the heater stuff in case one bitter morning the throttle ices up.

Also did you guys just use a lot of rubber fuel lines? I went to pep boys and the guy said there were ok for running coolant. Can they withstand the vacuum? I estimate about 4' for the vacuum lines and 1' for the coolant bypass. The 4' would be for the

1) Crankcase to bottom of TB ~2'
2) TB Boot to ICV & ICV to Upper Intake Manifold ~2'

Wise Old Dog · « **Reply #92 on:** May 24, 2008, 07:52:12 AM »

3 foot left me with about 4" extra. Fuel line should work just fine.

nomad · « **Reply #93 on:** May 24, 2008, 09:15:32 AM »

they will collapse a bit when hot and under vacuum. Use the plastic connectors from the stock mess and insert them in the lines so that no one hose is longer than say 8". The longer the hose the more it collapses in the middle.

tjts1 · « **Reply #94 on:** May 24, 2008, 10:17:13 AM »

Its very important to use vacuum hose when dealing with vacuum, and fuel line when dealing with fuel. Fuel line will collapse under vacuum and vac hose will expand when under positive pressure. The crankcase hose coming from the valve cover is not exposed to vacuum so you can use generic hose. The hose between the ICV and manifold is under deep vacuum so you have to use reinforced vac hose. Same for the charcoal canister to TB and FPR to TB hose
cheers
Justin

batsbats · « **Reply #95 on:** June 04, 2008, 03:16:22 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;50003

Its very important to use vacuum hose when dealing with vacuum, and fuel line when dealing with fuel. Fuel line will collapse under vacuum and vac hose will expand when under positive pressure. The crankcase hose coming from the valve cover is not exposed to vacuum so you can use generic hose. The hose between the ICV and manifold is under deep vacuum so you have to use reinforced vac hose. Same for the charcoal canister to TB and FPR to TB hose
cheers
Justin

I managed to use the heater hose left over to connect the ICV. Very hard to manipulate/squeeze, duno if that's a good or bad thing. Just need to make a catch can and I should be good to go

adam12hicks · « **Reply #96 on:** June 09, 2008, 07:34:00 PM »

Hey guys, quick question. I have my intake torn down and have removed the throttle body heaters. Right now I've just built a 'u turn' out of two brass air compressor fittings and red loc-tite. Hard to explain, but each piece has a graduated nozzle on one end and one has a male threaded and the other a female threaded section at 90 degrees. Put them both together and I ended up with a loc-tite fit 180 degree turn to plug into the two coolant lines beneath the throttle body.

Anyways, I digress... HERE'S my question. I'd rather pull the whole mess and run the new vacuum lines, but I'm not experienced at pulling the fuel injectors and fuel rail, and don't have the fuel injector o-rings, so I've chosen not to remove the lower intake manifold section. Can the two coolant ports be accessed without removing the lower manifold? If I could loop them as shown by the OP then I could go ahead and just pull all that vacuum crap from under the manifold without removing it.

Anyone tried this? If not I'm just going to cut back the vacuum lines until they're mostly out of the way and keep the coolant line as is.

Thanks guys,
Adam

vonkamp · « **Reply #97 on:** June 10, 2008, 08:15:30 AM »

Yes, I did mine without removing the lower intake manifold. It's a tight squeeze but it can be done.

adam12hicks · « **Reply #98 on:** June 10, 2008, 12:54:30 PM »

Ok thanks... and then one more and I think I'm SET. I noticed that the vacuum connection on the ICV and the connection on the intake are two different sizes. Also, the connection on the Throttle Body and the Valve Cover are also two different sizes. What did you guys do? Did you use two different sized hoses and connect them in the middle with a coupler or did you use the larger diameter hose and hope the clamp would get it tight on the smaller connection?

Thanks in advance!

batsbats · « **Reply #99 on:** June 10, 2008, 01:08:26 PM »

Quote from: adam12hicks;50957

Ok thanks... and then one more and I think I'm SET. I noticed that the vacuum connection on the ICV and the connection on the intake are two different sizes. Also, the connection on the Throttle Body and the Valve Cover are also two different sizes. What did you guys do? Did you use two different sized hoses and connect them in the middle with a coupler or did you use the larger diameter hose and hope the clamp would get it tight on the smaller connection?

Thanks in advance!

I squeezed with a lot of force and liquid detergent to get 5/8" heater hose for the ICV connections. Also used 5/8" heater hose for the valve cover to the tb, more plug and play here.

batsbats · « **Reply #100 on:** June 10, 2008, 01:11:01 PM »

Oh and, where did you guys mount your catch cans? It's freaking 100F outside, and couldn't really think of somewhere to neatly mount it.

I pulled my intake manifolds to see how the reroute was doing, and replace the plastic junction. I cleaned them well last time, but now the lower intake is dirty again

.

I'm thinking about using an air compressor filter.

tjts1 · « **Reply #101 on:** June 10, 2008, 01:21:58 PM »

I installed the catch can in line between the valve cover and intake tube, just sort of hanging mid air. I also used a compressor filter but it got clogged up pretty quick and caused the valve cover to leak from high pressure. I gave up on the catch can and simply use synthetic oil all the time. The intake manifold still gets oily but it the oil doesn't leave thick crusty deposits like dino juice does.

batsbats · « **Reply #102 on:** June 10, 2008, 06:07:50 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;50962

I installed the catch can in line between the valve cover and intake tube, just sort of hanging mid air. I also used a compressor filter but it got clogged up pretty quick and caused the valve cover to leak from high pressure. I gave up on the catch can and simply use synthetic oil all the time. The intake manifold still gets oily but it the oil doesn't leave thick crusty deposits like dino juice does.

oic, yeah I run m1 15-50. the upper intake seemed fine, but the lower where it meets the head was lightly covered. I think running it 10 laps @ new road course did not help either.

adam12hicks · « **Reply #103 on:** June 10, 2008, 08:54:01 PM »

10 laps? What happened? Did you break or chicken out

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #104 on:** June 24, 2008, 01:16:00 AM »

Excellent thread. Performed this mod today in about 6 hours. A long time I know, but I was also cleaning, stripping, and painting my upper manifold and TB so there was a lot of wait time. Came out great and am much happier without the rat's nest of vacuum/coolant lines under the intake.:cool:

Thanks a bunch.