Author Topic: The mess under the intake (Read 331003 times)

D. Clay · « **Reply #60 on:** October 15, 2007, 08:02:54 PM »

What is result of the catch cans mentioned above. Has anyone found them to trap some oil in liquid form or is the "sludge" in the intake condensed vapors?

FL318i · « **Reply #61 on:** October 16, 2007, 01:46:29 PM »

where are the 2 rubber hoses coming from the head cover going to, the ones with the filter .....

Wise Old Dog · « **Reply #62 on:** October 16, 2007, 03:05:33 PM »

The one with the filter goes to the throttle body, the other one goes to the intake boot (elbow).

FL318i · « **Reply #63 on:** October 26, 2007, 05:25:17 PM »

well i just deleted the heater plate and did everything just like it said here and now i got a very bad idle, sometimes it even dies on me any idea what could be causing this.

??

e9nine · « **Reply #64 on:** October 26, 2007, 05:48:49 PM »

Quote from: FL318i;36658

well i just deleted the heater plate and did everything just like it said here and now i got a very bad idle, sometimes it even dies on me any idea what could be causing this.??

Check to make sure you connected everything the right way.

FL318i · « **Reply #65 on:** October 26, 2007, 05:56:33 PM »

i did just like the pictures, but i forgot to mention that this was done at the same time i replace the cxylinder head , since i dont have the tools for cam timing i marked the sprockets and stuff and i put everything back where it was, could this be the problem, maybe the timing is not set right?? or maybe something that had to be done that the pictures are not showing???

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #66 on:** October 26, 2007, 09:29:09 PM »

I just did the same thing, but my idle got better. Chances are that the timing is off.

FL318i · « **Reply #67 on:** October 26, 2007, 09:51:01 PM »

anyone has e tool for that or an idea how much will it cost??

bmuser · « **Reply #68 on:** October 30, 2007, 01:30:48 PM »

Quote from: gearheadE30;35797

It is a plate that is mounted between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold. It looks like an aluminum spacer from the top. I recently learned that it was put there to keep the throttle body from freezing at low temps. Apparently chinks of ice were foring in cold weather testing and blocking the TB so it wouldn't close. I havn't heard of this actually happening to anyone who has removed it, but I guess it was only recorded as occuring below 0 degrees. The plate is also a bit of a restriction in the intake and has 4 or 5 hoses running to 2 different plates that get cracked and leak.

So wait, youre saying that if i remove this plate i wont have to replace all of those vacuum hoses? What the OP posted in the first post, the first set of pictures iwth the cracked hoses, I have to replace all of those as well. Pretty much teh same story for me. So are those the 4 to 5 hoses runnig to 2 different plates you are talking about? I dont mean all of them.

Basically why i am confused is that the OP posed the pics of all the cracked hoses, and then a box with new parts and had only 2 hoses in there. And now ure saying that this restrictor plate eliminates some of those vacuum hoses?

Wise Old Dog · « **Reply #69 on:** October 30, 2007, 02:27:39 PM »

Removing the heater plate allows you to do a custom re-plumb and eliminate the clutter underneath. But not entirely. You still need 3 hoses, one from the ICV to the intake boot, one from the valve cover to the throttle body, and one that connects the plastic water outlet to the nipple on the head. It does not mean that you get to eliminate everything. The 2 4-way hoses are everyones nightmare, and the first hoses to start falling apart. This allows you to eliminate those 2 hoses. The debate here is weather or not you have to run a hose from the plastic outlet to the nipple on the head. Some don't do it, some do. I will do it next time I have a problem under there. And I will run the hose. I'm not going to chance it. If anyone needs hoses, I have a complete set about 1 1/2 years old that I will sell. Still in excellent condition.

tjts1 · « **Reply #70 on:** October 30, 2007, 05:37:29 PM »

Wow I didn't realize this old thread was still around. Heres pics from my original project on pages 1 and 2 if it helps anyone.
http://flickr.com/photos/22313969@N00
Keep in mind that we now know that its completely safe to cap off the coolant hose at both ends instead or running a hose between the two ports.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3621

Quote from: FL318i;35841

where are the 2 rubber hoses coming from the head cover going to, the ones with the filter .....

I no longer have the fuel filter in hose on the lower left corner. Just a piece of hose.

Quote from: FL318i;36658

well i just deleted the heater plate and did everything just like it said here and now i got a very bad idle, sometimes it even dies on me any idea what could be causing this.??

I had a problem for a while after the conversion where the hose between the idle control valve and the intake was collapsing under vacuum at idle which would cause the engine to stall some times. You can see it happy as the hose squishes down. The solution is to use a length of very strong vacuum hose that won't collapse.
good luck

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #71 on:** October 31, 2007, 12:57:15 PM »

Also, be careful with that plastic joint that comes out of the front of the block. In the pic on this page, it is the pipe with coolant visible. Mine cracked off at 3 of the 4 joints, and I wanted to reuse the reletively new pipes and the plastic broken parts were a pain to remove. The plastic gets brittle over time, so it might be a good idea to pick one up before you get started anyway. Ebay has them for $15, and my dealer had them in stock for $35 without the CCA discount.

E30nate · « **Reply #72 on:** November 27, 2007, 12:09:34 AM »

man this thread has been super helpful. one question though. will taking off the coolant plate from the tb make the car not pass smog? i mean the visual part. some smog techs are pretty picky about stuff like that.

strad · « **Reply #73 on:** November 27, 2007, 09:25:40 AM »

Find one who isn't. Guaranteed it will fail if the tech is smart enough to know what an M42 is "supposed" to look like.

My father in law was smogging a 454 chevy in CA last summer, and the tech failed it on visual because a small nearly hidden part that has no effect on emissions was not present. That part is NLA from anyone, and we spent the whole day at junkyards finding another 454 that had one that wasn't busted. So yeah, if you get the wrong tech, you're screwed. Keep your old parts lol!

E30nate · « **Reply #74 on:** November 27, 2007, 10:24:24 AM »

Quote from: strad;38430

Find one who isn't. Guaranteed it will fail if the tech is smart enough to know what an M42 is "supposed" to look like.

My father in law was smogging a 454 chevy in CA last summer, and the tech failed it on visual because a small nearly hidden part that has no effect on emissions was not present. That part is NLA from anyone, and we spent the whole day at junkyards finding another 454 that had one that wasn't busted. So yeah, if you get the wrong tech, you're screwed. Keep your old parts lol!

thats what i figured. even though its not really an emissions device, unless you live like an eskimo, most smog techs are stupid like that. il still try it though, if it doesnt pass, il put it back together.