Author Topic: The mess under the intake (Read 330872 times)

bim(noob)mer · « **Reply #330 on:** March 26, 2012, 10:28:25 AM »

Just for all those who might be wondering, the red hose that some people used is called multi duty hose and napa sells it. The hose appears to be dual reinforced and it only comes in red.

batsbats · « **Reply #331 on:** April 09, 2012, 10:15:57 PM »

Found the culprit - Loose FPR Hose

LoneWolf · « **Reply #332 on:** April 16, 2012, 06:44:16 AM »

64211386691 - coolant hose

This should definitely be added to the original post of parts list. I ordered everything from the original post, this was not on it, but someone else posted it in this thread.

I dove into the mess under the intake this weekend, thought I had everything covered. Until I saw this hose, it was looking worn. I saw what looked like a worn spot, there was just a thin layer of inner wall left in the worn spot. Of course no local place had anything in stock that would fit and the bend is to complicated to get away with rigging something.

So I am waiting on this for this Saturday to finish everything. I can't wait to have it all buttoned back up.

I am really glad I did this though, it let me give everything a good once over. I am going to be replacing the short pieces of fuel line too, looked like one had already been replaced at some point.

Does anyone have any tips on removing the lower intake with the injectors intact? Or do you just kind of leave it attached and lying in there like I saw in some of the pics?

I am also wondering if I should go ahead and order the injector o-rings so I could pull the injectors and clean them. Would that be something worth doing?

Geoff · « **Reply #333 on:** April 16, 2012, 11:12:28 AM »

imho, if you go this far you may as well clean the injectors too. there is enough slack in the wiring harness to pull the manifold, then pull the clips and plugs off the injectors, and leave that assembly in the engine compartment and pop the injectors out. the o-rings are cheap.
Geoff

LoneWolf · « **Reply #334 on:** April 16, 2012, 12:47:29 PM »

Quote from: Geoff;111872

imho, if you go this far you may as well clean the injectors too. there is enough slack in the wiring harness to pull the manifold, then pull the clips and plugs off the injectors, and leave that assembly in the engine compartment and pop the injectors out. the o-rings are cheap.
Geoff

That ended up being my logic, I went ahead and ordered the o-rings.

Anyone with tips of tutorial on how to clean the injectors?

Also, what is the pattern when I retorque the manifolds?

Thanks again!

Can't wait to get it up and running, really banking on all of this making for a decent daily driver.

colin86325 · « **Reply #335 on:** April 16, 2012, 05:52:51 PM »

When you delete the heater plate for the throttle body you will put extra strain on the intake boot, as it needs to stretch a bit further. I recommend that you slot the two brackets where the AFM mounts to enable the whole airbox to slide rearwards to help compensate for the removed heater plate. It will help keep your intake boot from cracking prematurely.

LoneWolf · « **Reply #336 on:** April 16, 2012, 07:47:24 PM »

Quote from: colin86325;111881

When you delete the heater plate for the throttle body you will put extra strain on the intake boot, as it needs to stretch a bit further. I recommend that you slot the two brackets where the AFM mounts to enable the whole airbox to slide rearwards to help compensate for the removed heater plate. It will help keep your intake boot from cracking prematurely.

Also, the heater plate gasket I bought, which I believe is on the first post, is actually like a thick plastics spacer/gasket. That piece, paired with the original metal gaskets looks like it will pack my throttle boddy out enough not to cause strain.

colin86325 · « **Reply #337 on:** April 16, 2012, 10:39:30 PM »

Perfect. I just wished I had planned mine better the first time around. When I deleted the heater plate from my girlfriend's car I slotted the mounting tabs because I saw the cracks beginning in the intake boot on my car.

Geoff · « **Reply #338 on:** April 17, 2012, 05:17:08 AM »

well, it is a good idea to get the bellows in relatively the same position, to avoid cracks and stuff. also, the change in position can require another adjustment, this one of the throttle cable so it works as before. The easiest way to deal with this is just to leave the throttle heater in there, now just acting as a spacer plate. You would really need to know what you are looking at to see that its there, but not doing anything.

Nick_318is · « **Reply #339 on:** April 17, 2012, 08:00:17 PM »

I'm considering doing this as a mod not too far down the road, I know my hoses have seen better days. I have a question though, I like to track my car from time to time, does anyone who has made the mod frequently track their car and have they had any issues?

LoneWolf · « **Reply #340 on:** April 19, 2012, 01:59:54 PM »

I'm in a bit of a bind.

My pelican parts order just came in and the water hose I need did not come with it, atleast not the right one.

Anyone have a part number for the S shaped one that comes off the back of the head and goes to the heater core?

keflaman · « **Reply #341 on:** April 19, 2012, 02:04:42 PM »

This one?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=11-53-1-721-846-M9&catalog_description=Water%20Hose%2C%20Heater%20Rad%20to%20Cyl%20Head%2C%20%33%31%38i%2Fis%2FiC%20%28%31%39%39%31%29%20%2D%20%3Cbr%3E%26nbsp%3B%26nbsp%3B%20%3Cspan%20style%3D%22font%2Dweight%3A%34%30%30%3Bcolor%3A%23%30%30%30%30%38%30%22%3E

LoneWolf · « **Reply #342 on:** April 19, 2012, 05:53:06 PM »

Quote from: keflaman;111971

This one?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=11-53-1-721-846-M9&catalog_description=Water%20Hose%2C%20Heater%20Rad%20to%20Cyl%20Head%2C%20%33%31%38i%2Fis%2FiC%20%28%31%39%39%31%29%20%2D%20%3Cbr%3E%26nbsp%3B%26nbsp%3B%20%3Cspan%20style%3D%22font%2Dweight%3A%34%30%30%3Bcolor%3A%23%30%30%30%30%38%30%22%3E

No, that is the normal rad hose on the front.

The one I need is all the way at the rear of the head, comes off a nipple and turns tight off of it back to the heater core inlet/outlet I believe.

This of course needs that tight pre bend since it is under the manifold.

The two I ordered that looked close to it, seem too small. I am hoping I am wrong though. Can't check until late after work.

monty23psk · « **Reply #343 on:** April 19, 2012, 10:54:54 PM »

should be part #23 under this link:

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=11_1272&hg=11&fg=35

Here is it from pelican:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=64-21-1-386-690-M101&catalog_description=Heater%20Hose%2C%20Cyl%20Head%20to%20Heater%20Valve%20Inlet%2C%20%33%31%38is%20%28%31%39%39%31%29%20%20

LoneWolf · « **Reply #344 on:** April 19, 2012, 11:31:10 PM »

Quote from: monty23psk;111994

should be part #23 under this link:

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=11_1272&hg=11&fg=35

Here is it from pelican:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=64-21-1-386-690-M101&catalog_description=Heater%20Hose%2C%20Cyl%20Head%20to%20Heater%20Valve%20Inlet%2C%20%33%31%38is%20%28%31%39%39%31%29%20%20

Big thanks!

This is exactly what I needed.

Any idea if I can get away with buttoning everything else up then putting this on when it finally comes in next week ?

Edit: and I forgot to ask, does anyone have any kind of writeup on how to pull and clean the injectors?

I went ahead and ordered the parts but haven't been able to find anything on the procedure or what to use to clean them.

Thanks!

Edit the edit: I finished all of this up and started my own thread in the Engine and Drivetrain section. I have run into a few issues. Please stop by and lend some expertise!