Author Topic: tjts1  (Read 49912 times)

tjts1

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« Reply #45 on: May 13, 2007, 03:22:07 PM »
No heater plate. Its like it was meant to be.


1 down, 3 to go.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2007, 08:17:15 PM by tjts1 »
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FL318is

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tjts1
« Reply #46 on: May 13, 2007, 08:36:46 PM »
Man, your car is coming along nicely.  I just got home so I will take the pic of the fine mesh CAI tomorrow.

tjts1

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« Reply #47 on: May 14, 2007, 02:42:01 AM »
I would be interested to see that.
« Last Edit: May 14, 2007, 02:48:50 AM by tjts1 »
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sports.racer

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tjts1
« Reply #48 on: May 14, 2007, 08:53:55 AM »
Quote from: tjts1;24811


Whenever I press a button on this thing, the screen goes bizerk. How do you get it to work? I don't have an owner's manual.


Had the same problem with mine. At first I  thought it was the connector in the back but after much playing with that decided it couldn't be. So I took the clock apart and found that there is a rubber connector between the display and circuit board. Carefully took it all apart and cleaned everything. Put it back together and haven't had a problem since.

tjts1

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« Reply #49 on: May 14, 2007, 11:33:25 PM »
I was able to fix the OBC problem by gluing the face plate and mounting bracket in place. The bracket was flexing when ever I pressed a button which would prevent the contacts from doing their job.

YAY summer wheels and tires!


195/60R14 Falken Azenis 615. Used obviously but they should get the job done. Damn good price too from another enthusiast that was upgrading his 325 to 15x7s.


For anyone interested:
Steel wheel with 195/60R14 tire = 36#
Bottle cap with 195/60R14 Azenis = 33#

I was expecting a bigger weight difference. The steel wheel is 5.5" wide while the bottlecap is 6".
« Last Edit: May 15, 2007, 07:11:18 PM by tjts1 »
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tjts1

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« Reply #50 on: May 15, 2007, 05:02:36 PM »
Hmmm you think this old passenger side engine mount (left) needs to be changed? ;)

I'm only replacing the passenger side mount because it looks to be in much worse shape than the driver's side. Think about how engine torque is transfered to the engine mounts, the passengers side gets squished down while the driver's side is lifted up. The engine block wants to twist itself the opposite direction of the crank. The passenger side takes most of the stress while the driver's side just keep the engine from hitting the Xmember. Also the passenger side mount is exposed to exhaust heat while the driver's side isn't. When mounts cost $90 a piece you start think about these things. Eventually I'll get around to doing the driver's side too but its not a priority right now.
While were on the subject I found that the easiest way to access the passenger side control arm bolt is to jack up the engine and remove the passenger side mount. Much easier than through the back. You don't even have to drop the sway bar.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2007, 08:51:15 PM by tjts1 »
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Alpine003

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tjts1
« Reply #51 on: May 16, 2007, 11:38:05 AM »
I've never actually seen a new mount side by side with an older one. Thanks for the pics.

Another note about passenger mounts; if you have a really worn one, this can affect shifting. If you've tried replacing shift bushings, lever, etc and still have a hard time getting into gear, check your passenger engine mount.

tjts1

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« Reply #52 on: May 16, 2007, 10:14:23 PM »
This is what I call progress.



I still have to install the other side.
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FL318is

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« Reply #53 on: May 16, 2007, 10:31:09 PM »
You are a machine.  Wish I had your skills.

Tonyb

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« Reply #54 on: May 16, 2007, 11:57:27 PM »
Nice work on the car! Fun to follow along the post and see the work!
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

tjts1

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« Reply #55 on: May 17, 2007, 10:45:23 PM »
This evening I finished the other control arm, changed PS fluid, changed fuel filter and bled the front brakes. Hope fully I'll have it back on 4 wheels tomorrow. Now for some steel wheel pimpin... lol
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tjts1

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« Reply #56 on: May 20, 2007, 06:19:41 PM »
Finally got the car back on the road yesterday and WOW! what a difference. The idle is dead stable at 800 in every driving situation. The steering feels a bit heavier and a lot more connected to the wheels than before. No more clunking noises from the front end and theres no play in the wheel. I think i'll keep the PS for a while just to see whats what. I repaired too many things on the car to list them all. But I can say that it feels like a completely different animal. Oh and theres a lot less vibration in the cabin after changing the engine mount.

Its too damn windy to wash the car right now.This will have to do.


Begging for that H4/H1 swap


I didn't realize just how much smaller the E30 is compared to my GF's 89 240. Despite the size difference, only about 300lb separates the two.


Meet interesting people... and cars.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2007, 08:38:08 PM by tjts1 »
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jpod999

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tjts1
« Reply #57 on: May 20, 2007, 07:42:08 PM »
Euro smiley swap ftw!

Great work on that car, you're a good M42er.  ;)


Thanks to Brad at http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/7567/ticevalleysiggv7.jpg">Shutterflick.com for editing the sig.

dude8383

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« Reply #58 on: May 20, 2007, 07:57:30 PM »
Wow lotta progress there!

Keep up the good work!


gearheadE30

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tjts1
« Reply #59 on: May 21, 2007, 04:36:09 PM »
Great progress.

How hard is it to replace a control arm bushing? I need new ones but didn't know if I needed a press or something to do it right.

1991 318is Turbo
1989 Caprice Classic Wagon named Humphrey
1979 Suzuki GS750E