Author Topic: tjts1 (Read 49972 times)

ecpreston · « **Reply #30 on:** May 07, 2007, 08:00:54 AM »

Quote from: jpod999;25242

Why are you going to remove the hoses?

Quote from: tjts1;25249

The whole mess is overly complex, poorly conceived and prone to failure.

Agreed, I'm going to pull it all as well when I ditch the PS and AC. Good call!

jpod999 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 07, 2007, 04:48:11 PM »

Sweet, just make sure you post up on the results of your explorations!

tjts1 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 09, 2007, 12:35:16 PM »

Nothing special. Just a day at the beach.

Abrax · « **Reply #33 on:** May 09, 2007, 03:48:41 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;25249

I spent the better part of the last 2 days trying to resolve various leaks between the thermostat and the radiator and I probably haven't seen the end of it. All 3 hoses going to the radiator are cracked and brittle. The 8 coolant and 4 vacuum hoses under the intake are in even worse shape. Every hose that I can visually inspect have some kind of age and heat related damage. The whole mess is overly complex, poorly conceived and prone to failure. I live in a hot, dry region of the county where theres no danger of icing on the TB and I want to eliminate potential failures.
We may each have our own opinion about whether or not this modification increases power (I personally think it does) but we can't deny that a constant hot intake will increase the octane requirement and reduce volumetric efficiency. My volvo for example has a 10.7 to 1 compression ratio and requires a minimum 91 octane. It also has a much simpler hot intake system using a thermostatic valve to route hot air from near the exhaust, into the airbox. By eliminating this system I was able make the car run on 87 octane (while still running full advance) even in hot weather as well as increase power (by the butt dyno anyway). Granted the Volvo engine has a knock sensor and the M42 doesn't.
I think the whole system can be eliminated using 3 hoses: 1 for the coolant, 1 for the crankcase ventilation and one for the idle valve. I'll post pics when I go through with it.

E30 M42

E36 M42 has 3 different versions all of which are simplified from the E30.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/c/10.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/x/7.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/d/g/6.png

I think, that warming up the air this way extremely influences milleage at low temperatures. I had a comparison in my car at winter before the last winter. We had about -20 celsius degrees. I was driving with, my friend w/o warming pipes. My car was 3ltr/100km more economic than my friend's during 3 week cold period... I had 11 ltr's and my friend 14ltr's per 100km. We were driving till the summer and in the summer the two cars were eating the same amount of gasoline per 100km on the same distance made day by day going to work.

So I'm against cutting it off unless You live in the area which is warm enough all the year. At least I would make a cutting valve to stop heating when in the summer.

ecpreston · « **Reply #34 on:** May 09, 2007, 04:50:58 PM »

-20C !?!?! :eek:

yeah, I would probably not remove it then either.

tjts1 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 09, 2007, 06:45:49 PM »

Quote from: Abrax;25360

I think, that warming up the air this way extremely influences milleage at low temperatures. I had a comparison in my car at winter before the last winter. We had about -20 celsius degrees. I was driving with, my friend w/o warming pipes. My car was 3ltr/100km more economic than my friend's during 3 week cold period... I had 11 ltr's and my friend 14ltr's per 100km. We were driving till the summer and in the summer the two cars were eating the same amount of gasoline per 100km on the same distance made day by day going to work.

So I'm against cutting it off unless You live in the area which is warm enough all the year. At least I would make a cutting valve to stop heating when in the summer.

I can definitely see what you are saying in a cold climate. Here in northern California the temperature varies from 5C on a cold winter night to 40C on the most extreme hot summer day so its not really an issue for me. I drive to Lake Tahoe 2 or 3 times every winter where it definitely gets way below freezing but that represents a very small proportion of my driving.

This afternoon I removed the the TB and both the upper and lower intake. The mess of hoses underneath the intake is out of the car and so far I found (are you ready for this) 8 vacuum leaks. There may be more I'm not sure yet. The lower intake and runners inside the head had about 1/8-1/4" of black oily deposits from the crankcase ventilation. It's absolutely filthy. This is a testament to the adaptive engine management that the car passed the California smog check with with extremely low numbers.
Right now I'm in the process of cleaning the whole intake system with a can of brake cleaner. I don't have my camera today but I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow.

Abrax · « **Reply #36 on:** May 10, 2007, 12:08:57 AM »

In Cracow we have 4 months cold enough period to keep the pipes. BTW the most hated job is to remount the intake or make sth with injectors... It was always very challenging... But lastly I've remounted/mounted all of the pipes in less than hour... Had to change one injector...

If I was living in California I'd probably cut it out like You

Abrax · « **Reply #37 on:** May 10, 2007, 12:13:04 AM »

Quote from: ecpreston;25361

-20C !?!?! :eek:

yeah, I would probably not remove it then either.

It happened two winters ago and keeped for 3 weeks...

Normally it is -5 to -8. But I can remember -27 for one day three years ago..
And once I've crossed some distance up there in the northern Sweden at -38 ... After 15 meters I wanted to get back... The air was freezing my nose from the inside - strange feeling...

tjts1 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 10, 2007, 10:27:16 PM »

My engine engine work will be continued here
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2742

In the on the interior front, I did a quick trip to the JY this afternoon and pick up a few goodies.

$35 worth of back seat. Its filthy but but theres no tears or splits. I'll try cleaning it as it otherwise I'll pull the cloth off the foam and throw it in the wash.

$3 leather shift knob. It has wires sticking out the bottom. Don't know why but it came out of a 325e

5 finger discount. I'm not one for shop lifting but $10 per switch is silly. And really the unspoken rule at the JY is if it fits in your pocket, don't ask don't tell.

jpod999 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 10, 2007, 11:31:42 PM »

That shift knob is a sweet buy!

tjts1 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 12, 2007, 11:20:06 PM »

Is so purdy.

Now I have to do the valve cover.

FL318is · « **Reply #41 on:** May 13, 2007, 09:07:45 AM »

Looking great! Did you paint and then dremel the cover? I used the same color on mine.

tjts1 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 13, 2007, 09:18:19 AM »

No I just did a lot of prep work before paint by degreasing, sanding and washing twice then sprayed on high temp BBQ paint. Got it looking nice and shiny before hand.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/222/495322742_dfc2bed04e_o.jpg
I used a sanding block to gently remove the paint on the raised highlights.

FL318is · « **Reply #43 on:** May 13, 2007, 09:22:31 AM »

I have some brand new seat covers that came with the car. I have no idea if they are even remotely a good fit. But if all else fails, let me know and I can take some pics.

They are a strong twill fabric, grey and they have the roundel on the front seats. Its a complete set inclucing head rests covers.

tjts1 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 13, 2007, 10:05:53 AM »

Thanks for the offer. The back seat I picked up from the JY cleaned up nicely with soap and water so now I'm just letting the foam dry outside before I install it.