Author Topic: tjts1 (Read 49936 times)

ecpreston · « **Reply #15 on:** May 01, 2007, 04:34:16 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;24921

Another question. Where do you go to get keys made? Is there an alternative to the dealer? I only have 1 key at this point. Orchard wasn't able to duplicate it. They've done Volvo and Dodge keys in the past.

Thanks

I had trouble finding places that had the right blanks, lucked out with an ACE hardware

tjts1 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 01, 2007, 09:01:31 PM »

Quote from: ecpreston;24961

I had trouble finding places that had the right blanks, lucked out with an ACE hardware

Thanks for the tip. ACE made 3 copies for me this afternoon.

haledj · « **Reply #17 on:** May 02, 2007, 05:27:08 PM »

I want to see some more pictures of the volvo. I got my start in volvo's and will always want a turbo volvo project car.

tjts1 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 02, 2007, 06:18:53 PM »

Quote from: haledj;25039

I want to see some more pictures of the volvo. I got my start in volvo's and will always want a turbo volvo project car.

Neither of my volvos have a turbo, but they are massive fun. With a few suspension upgrades like IPD sway bars, shocks and springs, they can handle pretty well. In general, RWD volvos are have much more simple construction than E30 for example. Solid axle rear end, 8 valve engines, tractor like transmission etc. It also means theres less to go wrong but trust me: they are no BMWs.
I'll pick out some volvo pics for you later tonight

Back to the 318i
I fixed the rear bumper with a single screw. The left rear corner of the plastic bumper is damaged so the part that wraps around the car was completely loose. I didn't want to risk further damaging the bumper so I ran a screw through the bumper and the plastic bracket underneath. Don't worry I didn't drill through metal. This is temporary until I find a new bumper. Ghetto but effective. Better than the tape I had on there before.

I put the front end up on jack stands and checked the front end for looseness... yeah. All my front end bushings are shot. Ordered a new set of control arms on order from FCPgroton on top of the offset bushings I have coming from them. I've never seen so much front end play on any car. You can actually see the control arm dance around the bushing as you jerk the tire. I'm surprised how quiet and un-clunky the suspension is with so much wear.

Next I dropped the oil pan and what do you know, no loose bolts. The pic was taken after cleaning the pan. The old gasket was a real pain to scrape off.

But looking up, most of the bolts holding the pick and oil pump up, were completely loose. I mean I could tighten them with my finger. I dropped the bolts one by one, added locktite and re torqued. I guess it was only a matter of time until they undid themselves and dropped into the pan.

Its pretty nasty in there from previous owner who ran regular 10w30. At least she changed it often. Hopefully the 5w40 diesel rated oil I bought will help clean out the engine. Maybe I should drop the pan again in a few months for before and after shots. hehehe

Bottom side of piston #1

After putting the pan back with a fresh gasket, I was waiting for the coolant to drain...

... I started looking around the engine bay and guess what I found?

Is this the idle control valve hose or the crankcase ventilation hose? I can't tell. Its underneath the throttle body and connects to the plastic elbow between the TB and the air meter. This could explain my idle oscillations when i start the engine or try to switch on the AC.

Anyway, back to changing the thermostat.

Abrax · « **Reply #19 on:** May 03, 2007, 02:06:53 PM »

The Bentley Manual You wanted is here -> http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2282 ...

Nice progress... Theese pipes of the idle controll often are broken...

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 03, 2007, 02:54:06 PM »

I'm not completely sure, but I know the brake booster gets its boost from the intake manifold. This may connect to that, but I'm not entirely sure. In any case, I'm sure it is threr for a reason and the car will run better with it hooked up

tjts1 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 03, 2007, 03:44:45 PM »

Thanks for the link. I already have the Bentley manual. What is need is the owner's manual. I don't even know how to work the OBC. Not that its functioning properly but anyway.

I pulled the radiator out for a good cleaning. It was full of leaves and feathers. Turns out the radiator is 17 x 17", perfect my a volvo 2 speed electric fan. I've had good luck with these in the past so I think I'll replace both the clutch fan and the auxiliary fan.

Also gave me more access to the thermostat. I hate that clutch fan with a passion. It'll be gone soon enough

While trying to reinstall the thermostat housing, I cracked. I tried JBweld and it cracked again in a different spot. At this point I took a hint and went to the dealer. $45 later and I should have a fresh housing by tomorrow morning. The old one has a lot of corrosion around the mating surface and on the hose ends. The radiator hoses aren't looking too hot either but I'll save that for another day. I bought a new set of hose clamps just to stay on the safe side.

tjts1 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 04, 2007, 08:30:45 PM »

Yet another update. The new thermostat housing fits like a glove. Got every thing back together, checked for leaks and the temp gauge finally made it to the half way mark. Perfect. While I had the radiator out, i washed the fins out of rocks, leaves and other road debris that had accumulated over the years. I took this pic just before reinstalling the clutch fan. This thing is begging for an electric fan conversion. Also found that the clutch fan weighs exactly 2.7 lb. Good to know.

Just when I thought all is well, I found a small drip where the expansion tank meets the radiator. DOH! Seems like the added pressure of a functional thermostat found the weakest link in the system. Pulled the expansion tank.

Radiator still in the car.

Added lots of RTV sealant over and under the old rubber seals.

Top drain.

And reinstalled the expansion tank.

Now i have to wait another 24 hours for the RTV to fully cure before I can add coolant to the system.

Tonyb · « **Reply #23 on:** May 04, 2007, 11:56:08 PM »

I love the way those tanks can be removed for repair! ($$$$)

jpod999 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 06, 2007, 04:21:32 PM »

So how's she running now?

tjts1 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 06, 2007, 06:37:42 PM »

After reinstalling the overflow tank, the bleed screw was X threaded and started leaking when the system heated up. I added some sealant on the threads and let it set overnight. No more leaks. Now that the weather has turned Hot (91F this afternoon) I really need to recharge the AC. I'm going to try Duracool. Also noticed when I switch on the AC, RPM just to 1500, and when i turn it off, the engine dies. I guess theres some Idle control issues. The hoses under the intake look pretty bad. Otherwise its running fine. I think it needs some fresh engine mounts because I'm getting some vibration into the cabin, new control arms should be here next week and I'm also debating a 3.64 differential. In my opinion the RPMs are running way too high which makes the car annoying for highway cruising. Sure I'll give up some acceleration but it will get me to 60 in second. I'll put together some gear ratio charts when I get the chance.

Just waiting for the control arms...

My next big project is to get rid of this stuff.

Should have Cibies and relays by next week.

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 06, 2007, 07:29:07 PM »

Out of curiosity, is that all stuff related to the throttle body heater?

Nice wourk on bringing the car back. I personally don't think that a 3.64 would go too well with the M42. Maybe a 3.73 LSD off of a 325is, but I'm not sure how easy it is to replace a small pumpkin with a bigger one

tjts1 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 06, 2007, 08:40:02 PM »

That whole mess of hoses and fittings is related to the throttle heater. It'll be gone soon enough.
The differential is just an idea I'm considering in the distant future. 3.73 or 3.91 might be better options.
I have enough projects on my hands for the time being.

jpod999 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 06, 2007, 10:44:31 PM »

Why are you going to remove the hoses?

tjts1 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 07, 2007, 04:07:08 AM »

I spent the better part of the last 2 days trying to resolve various leaks between the thermostat and the radiator and I probably haven't seen the end of it. All 3 hoses going to the radiator are cracked and brittle. The 8 coolant and 4 vacuum hoses under the intake are in even worse shape. Every hose that I can visually inspect have some kind of age and heat related damage. The whole mess is overly complex, poorly conceived and prone to failure. I live in a hot, dry region of the county where theres no danger of icing on the TB and I want to eliminate potential failures.
We may each have our own opinion about whether or not this modification increases power (I personally think it does) but we can't deny that a constant hot intake will increase the octane requirement and reduce volumetric efficiency. My volvo for example has a 10.7 to 1 compression ratio and requires a minimum 91 octane. It also has a much simpler hot intake system using a thermostatic valve to route hot air from near the exhaust, into the airbox. By eliminating this system I was able make the car run on 87 octane (while still running full advance) even in hot weather as well as increase power (by the butt dyno anyway). Granted the Volvo engine has a knock sensor and the M42 doesn't.
I think the whole system can be eliminated using 3 hoses: 1 for the coolant, 1 for the crankcase ventilation and one for the idle valve. I'll post pics when I go through with it.

E30 M42

E36 M42 has 3 different versions all of which are simplified from the E30.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/c/10.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/x/7.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/d/g/6.png