Author Topic: Timing case swap (without pulling the head) (Read 2923 times)

RotCowboy · « **on:** November 09, 2019, 10:13:14 AM »

I wanted to post my experience with the timing case swap (without pulling the head) in the hopes that it helps others as the numerous threads here helped me. This is less how to (because there are already great threads on this) but more what I learned from doing this that I did not see on the instructions here.

I bought a 1995 timing case off of eBay and recently removed my old case and (time bomb) timing sprocket and replaced all the rails and timing system with (new parts) those of the 1995 M42.

Getting the old case off was a matter of removing all of the bolts (there are lots and they are difficult to see since they are black on black) and then shoving thin scrapers and flat head screwdrivers in between the case and block and gently applying leverage. But putting the new case on was more involved.

I initially tried no shim.. then to a tough plastic sheet from a license plate as a shim in between the top case and the new case but this would become pinched and tear when I tried to remove it. I then tried the thin piece of metal. This when silicone lubed worked much better and with pressure from clamps and rubber mallets I very slowly got the case on and the rubber profile gasket to seat into place. The large issue other than that was lining up the crank at the bottom so it fit through the oil pump hole perfectly; this took patience.

The big tip I would give is to use vice grips (at least 2) and a large screwdriver to clamp onto the thin metal when you remove it from the gasket mating surface. This allows you to use a crowbar against the screwdriver to gently lever the metal out quite easily� I could not get the metal shim out any other way.

The other thing I did thanks to advice from the forum is to use Toyota FIPG for all of my big aluminum to aluminum gaskets. My M42 is completely sealed with zero leaks. I used standard gaskets for the complex surface between the new case and the block as well as the upper pan since it has iron on the block side and aluminum on the pan side� from what I have researched the differences in expansion rates make a standard gasket a better choice.

Now I have a bullet proof timing setup that I hope I can rack up the miles on. I will try to post more photos or answer any questions. There are some really good threads on here with good photos that helped me.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2019, 10:27:16 AM »

Nice work, swapping the timing case with the head still on the engine is a chore for sure. Getting the shim out is tough...it's like adding insult to injury after managing to get the timing case in at all! I had vise grips on the sheet, removed the radiator + front grilles and PULLED. It popped out all at once, sending my hands into some body sheet metal and claiming yet another blood sacrifice lol. Your more patient method of prying it out sounds like a better idea.

Author Topic: Timing case swap (without pulling the head) (Read 2923 times)

RotCowboy

Timing case swap (without pulling the head)

bmwman91

Re: Timing case swap (without pulling the head)