low idle and crappy performance, vids and description inside.

[559e36]

okay...
i have never owned or even drove a BMW before purchasing this 1992 318is.
coming from AE86's i'm very familiar with low power lol!!!

it idles at 500-600 and is slow from the start, if I try to floor it it kinda bogs and surges a little and i cant rev passed 4.5k.

i've searched over and over finding a few helpful links but nothing solid.

cat seems fine, just passed cali smog 2 months ago.
no vac leaks during my first look, under intake is next.
only code i have is an idle one cause i turned the screw twice so the car wont die.

i'm going to clean the icv, clean the maf, change the plugs and reset the ecu this weekend.

if anyone has any kind of useful info or suggestions i am greatful!

https://youtu.be/iI27-GFHvp4

https://youtu.be/CVmvPyqsnuU

i also read about coolant pressure issues
ecu might be faulty.

another this is that i never hear a hiss when unscrewing my gas cap(new cap), should i worry? pointers?

i'm new to all of this and i am doing a crap ton of research, im not lazy!

a few hello's and some help would be nice lol!!

[559e36]

I just finished cleaning the maf, cleaning the icv, looking for vac leaks, getting air bubbles out of cooling system, cleaning tb replacing the spark plugs....

No change!

Im leaning to oxygen sensors or ecu.

anybody on here?

[Tgoode318]

Hey welcome to the club! I love the old hachi roku and the 318i is similar, Both RWD, both great weight ratios, amazing handling & both low horsepower 4 pots    
Your plan of cleaning the icv maf and new plugs are all a great start And should be done anyways since you just bought it.  I would also recommend a new fuel filter while your doing general maintenance.  As for your problem it seems like a sensor problem, I would check your crank sensor this is the most likely culprit, While your at it check the cam sensor. GL! 

[559e36]

Thanks for the welcome!

Guess I'll look at the crank and cam sensors next!

I would love to take this car out for a nice spirited mountain run but I can't do much with it feeling like its in limp mode!!

[Tgoode318]

A trick that might help tell you more about whats wrong is called the "stomp test" which Uses the computers internal diagnostic program to help locate problems. While some people hate this program because it can be extremely vague on some of the codes it gives off I have always found it pretty useful because it at least narrows down the problem to a particular system that you can analyze more thoroughly.  I have included a link which will show you the procedure for doing this test (its very simple). Hopefully this can give you a little bit of insight but be warned it can be completely useless at times (*like crank sensors faults even though it does have a diagnostic for this and code*)    
https://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/JF-Tech/E30_E36_On_Board_Diagnostics%20.htm

[559e36]

I'm reading 1214

Can't find it in the list of codes!!(my luck).

1213 is lambda
1215 is air sensor

[Tgoode318]

hah i knew it! Now I really think its your Crank position sensor, have you had a chance to check it yet? Make sure if you buy a new one to get the O.E  I have heard of people replacing with off brand cps not fixing there problem and they ended up throwing tons of other parts at it to try and fix the car with no luck eventually they come back to the off brand cps and buy a genuine bmw one and then like magic the problem is fixed.

[Tgoode318]

ooohhh just found this THREAD CHECK IT 
At the end he said it was his cps and he was getting code 1214

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=8721.15

[559e36]

Im happy that I got a chance to tear into the engine a little so can start learning it but this issue has been eating away at my happiness lol...

Thanks for the support and taking time to help, i will definitely take a look at it and possibly replace the sensor.
I hope this is it!!!!

[559e36]

UPDATE

replaced the crank sensor with an oem one but it didnt fix it!
it ran a bit choppy for a minute and the idle bounced from 400-600 then stayed at 900 and after a few light revs it's chillin at 600 constant.
it looks like the cam, crank and tps were all changed recently so now im left here scratching my head like wtf?

new plugs
cleaned icv
cleaned throttle body
cleaned/inspected tps, cam sensor, afm
replaced crank sensor
checked for air leaks and sprayed carb cleaner around all hoses lines while running(nothing happened)
checked all my coils

feels like im running on 3cyl and it idles at 600.

what else do i do?
check my lambda sensors and dme?

i'll erase all codes from the dme and check it again, i gotta go to work so i'll do it when i get home tonight.



HELP!!!!!!

[Tgoode318]

I just read over your post again i thought you said you had already replaced o2 sensor but i misread  Get your self a multi meter and get a copy of the bentley manual you can also find it on this site (dont have the link any more you will have to search for it) With the manual you can then check the ranges of your sensors and make sure they are in spec I would look at the O2 next and make sure its functioning properly: sorry thought you said you replaced it already :X

[559e36]

I'll check all the sensors and find the manual.

Found some useful information on here posted by dave.

Crank position sensor - 680ohms(+/- 10%) between pins 1&2. Pin pairs 2&3 and 1&3 must be over 100Kohms. Sensor tip must be clean of oil residue and metallic debris, and must have an air gap between head and sending wheel not more than 1.3mm (roughly as thick as a credit card).
Cam position sensor - 1240ohms (+/-10%) between pins 1&2. Pin pairs 2&3 and 1&3 must be over 100Kohms

Coolant temp sensor (ETC) harness pin 1 (brown/red wire) must have 5VDC with ignition switch on. The sensor is variable resistance NTC; should be very high resistance if cold, dropping as the coolant warms up. BMW spec is 7-12Kohms at 14degF, 2-3Kohms at 70degF, 270-400 ohms at 180degF (operating temp). Be aware that there is also a gauge coolant temp sender in the E30. It has one pin on the sender. There is also an oil pressure sender plug in that harness...all three have the same style two-pin connector. Don't mix them up! E36 is similar, but it uses a dual-output engine temp sensor (ECT).

Airflow sensor (AFM) harness must have 5VDC between harness pin 1 and ground with ignition switched on. Pins 1&2 on the AFM will have a steady & variable resistance (ohms) as the door is moved through its travel. While you're there, test the intake air temp sensor (IAT). Pins 4&5 on the AFM should have 7-12Kohms resistance at 14degF, 2-3Kohms at 70degF. resistance will drop as the air temp gets higher.

Throttle position sensor is easy on the E30. With the ignition on, you'll need to have 5VDC between on pin 1 in the harness and ground. If the throttle is closed (idle position) you should see zero resistance (continuity) on sensor pins 1&2 and infinite resistance on pins 2&3. As you open the throttle plate, pins 1&2 must switch to infinite resistance. Move your DMM leads to pins 2&3. They must have infinite resistance until the throttle is almost fully open (WOT), at which point you'll see zero resistance. Be sure to test the TPS while it is installed on the TB - switch mis-adjustment, throttle cable too tight or a sticking throttle plate can prevent it from working properly. There are two slotted leads that permit limited adjustment of the TPS. I usually clean the TB with some alcohol/TB cleaner and a few shop cloths while I'm testing it out.
An E36 sensor is similar, but with a variable resistance. It'll also have 5VDC on harness pin 1. TPS pins 1&2 should increase resistance from 1-4Kohm as the throttle opens, pins 1&3 should read out approx. 4Kohms. Be aware that there is also a secondary TPS on E36 models with traction control...I'm not sure if the M42 models had this option or not.

The O2 sensor isn't easy to test properly. You can attempt to troubleshoot it with the following tests. The O2 sensor will output a rapidly fluctuating 0.2-0.8VDC signal when fully heated (>300degF) on pins 1&2 (be aware of dangerously hot components if attempting this test). Pins 3&4 on sensor harness (heater circuit) must have continuity. There must be battery voltage on pins 3&4 in the engine harness when the ignition switch is in position II.

Fuel pump must output 3.0 bar (43.5psi) +- 10%. The proper way to test the pump is with an inline tee fitting on the supply side of the fuel rail, or at the pump output under the rear seat. With the ignition on, you'll have to jump terminals 30 & 87 in the fuel pump relay socket to power up the pump. If you connect the pump directly to the testing gauge (known as 'dead-heading' the pump), you'll get an incorrect reading. A healthy pump can put out 80psi. Keep the gauge connected for at least 20 minutes; the system should lose no more than 0.5 bar (~7psi) pressure. If so, the pump's internal check valve is worn.

Ignition coils must have very low primary resistance - 0.4 to 0.8 ohms between the outer pins on E30 coils (Bosch calls them terminals 1&15). Similarly, the E36 quad-coil pack must read 0.4ohms to 0.8 ohms between the following pairs: 2&1, 2&6, 2&7, 2&5. Secondaries cannot be tested with a DMM.

[559e36]

Driving to and from work I noticed my car is a little more responsive/powerful but idle is now at 500rpm warm and my rev limit is still 4500rpm.

Stomp tested again after clearing codes this afternoon and im still getting 1214!!

[Tgoode318]

Yah daves information is spot on! you can use that instead of the bentley (but a free copy of the bentley is great to have any ways  ) http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=2282.0