M42/M44 ITB Kit Design

[lambertius]

Hello everyone,

Im a newbie here, Im orginally from the 318ti.org group and found this forum with the itbs!
so have joined M42club forum to get more informations.

just wanna say that lambertius has done a great R&D work!!
I have read this forum over and over, which conveinced me to order the ITB kit from RHD engineering few weeks back from Rama.

first I will go with the original DME with MAF, even though my DME is tuned by Kelleners.
also I plan to install the Apexi AFC so can play with air/fuel mixtures.
eventually when I have enough money to spend, want to go with stand alone ECU and have no MAF and open throttle bodies for that roar sound!!

unfortunately when I recieved the kit, it had some packaging/shipping issues where the 2 trumpets were deformed.

and also found few defects and wrong parts so its on hold for now.....
Rama is doing his best to provide me with correct and updated parts now, but abit unsatisfied since I had to pay for the return shipping costs.

Im a bit concerned once I install them for any other issues?

did anyone purchase and already installed them?


lambertius,  I have few questions so I can be ready for installation once I get the parts.

1. do I need the synchronizer tool for adjustments?
    as I look at the itbs, I do not see any individual adjustments.
    only adjustments for each manifold so 2 itb at same time
2. where does the large vacuum hose coming from the valve cover connect to?
     do I make a hole in the air box plenum?
3. also the vacuum hose coming from the fuel injectors, 4 into 1 large hose, where to connect?
     do I make a hole in the air box plenum?
4. how do I connect the ICV vacuum hoses?
    I got a block to fit the ICV with 2 holes, assume one is connected to the vacuum block but where does the other connect to?
5. biggest concern right now is the manifold ports in the fuel injector ports.
    I have not confirmed with my car yet but I have one phenolic gasket in hand so confirmed the shape and alignments.
    the ports align but the fuel injector ports are much smaller on your design so it will have a leak?  maybe the phenolic gaskets could be wrong design but I will confirm once I get the BMW gaskets this weekend.



my car is '98 318ti M44 Right Hand drive so assume its same/similar as your 318is.

thanks,

1. It won't hurt to try and get the plates as close together as possible for maintaining a smooth idle but it only essential on manifolds that don't have a throttle bypass. They're balanced in pairs, the manufacturing is precise enough that small variations over two throttle bodies is insignificant.

2. The Crank Case Ventilation does NOT run directly into the plenum, it will create a vacuum leak and the car will idle poorly and may cut out. On my car I run the CCV into a catch can currently, and the can is vented to atmosphere. I do have other plans, but I haven't committed to them yet. If you wish to run the CCV back into the intake, you will need to get a PCV valve and run it into one of the cylinders directly using the throttle bypass and a t-fitting - the same way you would the brake booster connection.

3. That is the air jacket for the injectors. You can see the hose running into the base plate in these pictures:

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18442.msg129513#msg129513

These are pictures of my assembly, and you can see that I did a similar thing on my custom air box. http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18442.msg129970#msg129970

As I don't sell the kit I'm not 100% aware of what it comes with, you may need to drill a hole and get a barb fitting, some sealant and bolt it in place. A lot of people don't have the air jacket injectors, or would replace their injectors so Rama may not have included this by default. I will ask him though.

4. http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18442.msg129970#msg129970

You will need to scroll down a bit, you will need to connect all the throttle bypass to the vacuum block, then one side of the ICV to the vacuum block - and then the other side of the ICV to the air box. Again you may need to drill a hole and grab a barb fitting. I recommend drilling into the base plate as it is physically stronger and won't fail. A 90 degree fitting should make it easy.

5. Unfortunately the Phelonic spacer is over-sized. The original injectors were in a slightly different location than where they are now, but it was a bit difficult to get everything measured correctly for fitment so there are some variations. Your casting would've been in the same batch as mine so will be the same shape. I used the OEM gasket and have no issues. It is a bit bodge, but if you're intent on using the phelonic spacer you could fill the gap with a strong gasket maker.

A bit of a bummer with the trumpets being damaged - but keep in contact with RHD, he is a small company so his after sales support matters a lot to him.

A few people have purchased the kits, I don't know how many from the forums though. Being a small development there have been little things to overcome, like getting the E30 air box sorted and I think he has changed the throttle components from what I got - but otherwise it has been pretty good. Apparently some guy in Queensland got 89rwKw on his M42! As for any issues though, the only thing I've found is that because of the very direct intake design it is more susceptible (idles a bit low) to moisture during a cold start on a cold day - sometimes I rev it a bit when I turn it on to warm it up so that it idles smoothly and it disappears straight away.
Don't hesitate with any further questions!

[cool-shi]

Hello lambertius

thanks for the reply!

1. ok so no necessity to purchase the synchronizter tool.
2. so CCV can be left all alone open? or should I keep the original PCV valve on and leave it open?
    guess best is to try to connect back to the manifold behind the throttle body, right?
3. ok
4. ok, does it matter wether the two ports goes to the vacuum block and to the airbox?
    as I think the block I got is different from yours which has 2 separate holes not connected to each other, separate air space. which each holes goes directly to the each of the ICV holes so wondering if left/right holes has different functions or not?
   as the original it is hooked up to the same open vacuum area.
5. ok, will just wait for the intake gasket and used manifold to arrive for checking.

NEW question

6. in your setup write up, the brake booster line needs to be connected separately to the one cylinder manifold.
    should not be connected inline with the vaccuum block.
    but Rama's instructions shows to connect inline to one of the 4 lines thats coming from each of cylinder manifolds to the vacuum block with the T fittings.
     is this OK? since its connected to the one cylinder manifold and not to the end of the vacuum block?

cant wait to get the correct/updated parts!!
i guess I should dyno before the installations..... 
but I am more interested in high revving engine response and the sound of NA engine!
   

[lambertius]

Hello lambertius

thanks for the reply!

1. ok so no necessity to purchase the synchronizter tool.
2. so CCV can be left all alone open? or should I keep the original PCV valve on and leave it open?
    guess best is to try to connect back to the manifold behind the throttle body, right?
3. ok
4. ok, does it matter wether the two ports goes to the vacuum block and to the airbox?
    as I think the block I got is different from yours which has 2 separate holes not connected to each other, separate air space. which each holes goes directly to the each of the ICV holes so wondering if left/right holes has different functions or not?
   as the original it is hooked up to the same open vacuum area.
5. ok, will just wait for the intake gasket and used manifold to arrive for checking.

NEW question

6. in your setup write up, the brake booster line needs to be connected separately to the one cylinder manifold.
    should not be connected inline with the vaccuum block.
    but Rama's instructions shows to connect inline to one of the 4 lines thats coming from each of cylinder manifolds to the vacuum block with the T fittings.
     is this OK? since its connected to the one cylinder manifold and not to the end of the vacuum block?

cant wait to get the correct/updated parts!!
i guess I should dyno before the installations..... 
but I am more interested in high revving engine response and the sound of NA engine!
   

2. I would suggest running the CCV into a catch can (with an air filter). It is the easiest solution depending on the modification laws in your country.
4. I think you're asking does it matter which port runs to the air box and which to the vacuum block? If so, the answer is no. You can run either end in either direction.

6. Following Rama's instructions is the easiest solution, it will achieve the same end result just using more hose. You want the brake booster to be hooked up as close to a cylinder as possible - otherwise your brakes may be a LOT harder to use...

Since you use the M44, if you were to dyno you should see very similar results for your improvement. You will definitely get a nice sound once you hook it up, that I can definitely promise you!

[cool-shi]

Hello lambertius,

thanks for the reply!

i think im ready to put them on!!
just need to wait for Rama to send out the replacements.....

i may ask more questions during the installations!?

its becoming somewhat a trend in my area to have AE111 itbs on 318is so i wanted somewhat different and love carbon stuff so this was the best way for me.

[lambertius]

Okay, I've had a chat with Rama regarding pricing of the kit. With the assumption that the current number of people who want to get in with the bulk order commit to the purchase, the prices will be (in USD, and prices are subject to change):


Carbon Fiber Kit - $1500
Fiberglass Kit - $1400
Flywheel - $195 (He will do this price for JUST the flywheel as well if there is enough interest)


If you have an E30, as part of the bulk order Rama will modify the airbox for clearance if you want. All E30 kits will be supplied with the Carbon Fiber curved trumpet for cylinder 4 clearance.

Group buy ends on the 31st of May 2016 so message me if you haven't already!

Make sure you let me know what you want, what model your car is, the driving side and where you are!

Hello lambertius,

thanks for the reply!

i think im ready to put them on!!
just need to wait for Rama to send out the replacements.....

i may ask more questions during the installations!?

its becoming somewhat a trend in my area to have AE111 itbs on 318is so i wanted somewhat different and love carbon stuff so this was the best way for me.

Ask questions, post pictures and share you progress I'll answer anything I can. Your kit will be a bit different to mine since mine was a prototype, but if I can help I will.

[cool-shi]

Hello lambertius,

sorry one more question.
what size hose connector did you use to connect the coolant hoses from the pvc?
ID 16.0mm?

thanks,

[lambertius]

A bit off topic - I'm selling the original intake from my car if anyone is interested http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-M42-M44-E36-Polished-Intake-Manifold-/162104853006? Message me on ebay if you're interested.

Also, a few people got the RHD kit in the group buy - hopefully there will be a few more pictures in the thread!

[lambertius]

So continuing on with my little projects...

Latest thing is getting the LSD sorted out.

I originally purchased a used, OEM 168mm LSD inside the case for ease and just swapped the whole unit. I started having some issues with oil leaks and after opening the diff realise the top cap was broken. Figuring that it was most likely due to old age, I purchased another one new.

This new one only lasted a few thousand kms (fortunately I didn't pay much for it, having sourced it from a closing BMW dealership) before the same issue happened. So for the moment I have been driving with an open diff.




This issue occurs because the entire force of the springs/shims inside the carrier focus onto that point under the top cap, which is actually the thinnest point in the carrier.



Below is the final spring in the system placed on the top cap, so that is the point where all the force is focused.



To give you an idea of how much force there is - the below image shows how much high the top cap sits before it is bolted down...



Here are both diffs dismantled and getting cleaned









Both diffs are getting billet top caps (I was going to design my own, but it turns out that it is common issue so a fair few people sell them), new end bearings and the older one will be getting brand new clutches!



One for me, and one for ebay! Hit me up if you want the other one!

[Jaker]

I just started reading your post and immediately thought of the billet caps on ebay. Hope you found the inexpensive ones!

I am running the small case LSD, but mine is from some obscure early euro application that has a much more robust design. The "cap" is actually 1/2 the diff housing and the 2 halves are sandwiched together by the ring gear bolts. I'm running 265whp and 240ft/lbs torque (325n/m) and have been for approx. 19,000 miles with no failures. I wish I could recall what the application was. I believe it was some sort of early diesel 5 series.

[lambertius]

I just started reading your post and immediately thought of the billet caps on ebay. Hope you found the inexpensive ones!

I am running the small case LSD, but mine is from some obscure early euro application that has a much more robust design. The "cap" is actually 1/2 the diff housing and the 2 halves are sandwiched together by the ring gear bolts. I'm running 265whp and 240ft/lbs torque (325n/m) and have been for approx. 19,000 miles with no failures. I wish I could recall what the application was. I believe it was some sort of early diesel 5 series.

I think I've managed to find the person who is manufacturing the part. They're charging me only ~ 30% of what an Australian retailer does. It has taken a bit of diffing around, but it looks like I have all the parts I need to get the diffs entirely rebuilt. New clutches and bearings, as well as a few new belleville washers and shims. I'll post links to the stores for other people's reference once I've received my parts and give some feedback!

They'll be brand new!

[Jaker]

That's cool. Here are photos of my diff. I was just inside changing the pre-load. It seems the small belleville washers were inserted back to front. The cup facing the axle rather than the inside. Hope you don't mind me posting here.















 

[lambertius]

Wow! That diff is completely different to anything else I've seen! I wouldn't be surprised if that is an aftermarket cap as well though...

The belleville washer should face out towards the wheel - so it sounds like it was in correctly. I found this guide today on the small case LSD which is probably the best pictures on our LSD specifically http://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/strongest-2002-limited-slip-differential-build-r74/?tab=comments

How are you intending to adjust the pre-load? These OEM diffs are self-adjusting so you shouldn't be able to unless you replace the clutches...

[Jaker]

I'm not convinced that I have the wrong way around, as the diff has been opened at least twice (once for a full brand new parts rebuild and once by the shop that put the guts into my E36 Coupe housing) between the original factory assembly and my latest messing about. That article does not specifically state which way the washer goes, only to be certain you put it back in the same way it came out.

[lambertius]

This is a medium case rebuild, but when I dismantled mine my washers were facing the same way.

http://buildraceparty.com/diy-tech-how-to-rebuild-a-bmw-e30-differential/

[Jaker]

This is a medium case rebuild, but when I dismantled mine my washers were facing the same way.

http://buildraceparty.com/diy-tech-how-to-rebuild-a-bmw-e30-differential/

That's precisely what I mean. In this article, the author states: " The concave side of this and bigger bellevue washers face the spider gears."

I have now disassembled 3 of the small case diffs, and the large belleville washers in all 3 show wear patterns consistent with the small bellevilles being placed with the concave side facing the large belleville or the center of the diff.

The pre-load is adjusted by adding/removing spacers/shims to alter the pre-tightened gap between the LSD cover and housing. Before I opened the LSD, I had 28ft/lbs of pre-load - the force required to turn an unladen wheel when the other wheel is on the ground and the trans is in neutral. Now with the pre-load altered (an extra small belleville washer and the other 2 washers reversed), I have 87.5ft/lbs of pre-load. I'm told the OEM spec is 60ft/lbs.