Poll

What color should I paint this thing? Non-Oem not really being considered....

Original brillantrot red
15 (53.6%)
Diamantschwarz Metallic (black)
5 (17.9%)
Alpinweiss II (white)
1 (3.6%)
Lazurblau Metallic (blue)
4 (14.3%)
Sterlingsilber Metallic (silver)
3 (10.7%)

Total Members Voted: 23

Voting closed: August 13, 2015, 04:43:44 PM

Author Topic: shifter prob  (Read 126334 times)

keflaman

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1991 318iS resto
« Reply #15 on: January 25, 2014, 09:02:35 PM »
Two years?

LOL! Aren't we the optimist.

Darky

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #16 on: January 27, 2014, 01:39:45 AM »
With the thermo fan go electric, main advantage is that they will only run when required rather than constantly which means less drag on motor most of the time!
Most of it is already done too on a/c modules there is a thermo fan already wired of a switch on the radiator right hand side 50 mm from top. Change that to 80 degree c and update fan all good!

2 years I think possible your doing really well at the moment!

How are you going to do the engine, yourself or somebody else?

Where did you get that dash? Anymore?

What are you planing for interior?

deansweet

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2014, 09:20:02 AM »
Quote
slightly lowered

I'd highly recommend looking in to a solid skid plate then.

Dean

Darky

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #18 on: January 27, 2014, 03:11:00 PM »
Or a dry sump, that takes away the problem!

keflaman

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #19 on: January 27, 2014, 07:27:20 PM »
I hope it takes you longer than two years...I enjoy your style. :)

ryanjv

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #20 on: January 30, 2014, 02:11:35 PM »
if you're looking for a new tank, i picked one up here
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_fuel-tank-spectra-premium_18320000-p?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Shipped-_-General#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=shipped&utm_content=general
I had an online coupon code, came out to $148 shipped to my door.  I haven't installed it yet, but i've opened it up and it looks good.

keflaman

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1991 318iS resto
« Reply #21 on: January 30, 2014, 04:46:04 PM »
What lock ring are they talking about?

deansweet

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #22 on: January 31, 2014, 08:22:04 AM »
if you're looking for a new tank, i picked one up here
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_fuel-tank-spectra-premium_18320000-p?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Shipped-_-General#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=shipped&utm_content=general
I had an online coupon code, came out to $148 shipped to my door.  I haven't installed it yet, but i've opened it up and it looks good.

Thats awesome - thanks! Want to know the funny thing? The company that makes these fuel tanks is about 15 miles from my house. I will just go straight there and buy it - no shipping required!

I got the exact same tank from AdvanceAuto a while back and the only 'Mod' or adjustment I had to do with it was one of the outside corner tabs need to be modified ever so slightly to allow the exposed stud to come thru the hole in tab. No issues since.

Thanks again!  ;D

bigskyis

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #23 on: February 03, 2014, 10:09:25 PM »
Note to self:  Get a proper chain or one of those engine tilting devices that hook to your hoist. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE from exhaust manifold.  Better yet, unbolt exhaust manifold. You will be removing it anyways.  Even better...pull engine AND tranny as one unit. Hooked up to proper chain or one of those engine tilting devices. OR...pull car out of garage...pull drivetrain (after unbolting exhaust manifold)...then push car back in garage. That way your cherry picker is not trying to bust out of your ceiling like one of those Aliens busting out of your chest. You'll learn. Here is another tip...put the front of the car on some jackstands. That way when you pull the drivetrain...you can stand it up on end and get 'er out. Also...when you put it back together...same thing. I assume you will be doing the clutch. Easier to do it outside of the car. So is reassembly. Then stab it in as a unit. Have fun! But make it easy on yourself.

bigskyis

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #24 on: February 04, 2014, 07:00:13 PM »
The important issue is that you got it out safely. Safety is always paramount. The way I would have done it is to pull the exhaust and intake manifolds. I would have left the tranny attached. Put the car on jacks stands. Run your boom out to max length. I have a chain set up I bought 20-30 years ago. Hook the engine/tranny so that when you left you lift in front of the weight centerline so that the engine tilts up.
As you are jacking the engine up the tail of the tranny will drop.  As you are jacking the engine up you can pull the cherry picker forward a little bit at a time. As you are doing so the make sure the oil pan clears the radiator core support. Take it up. All the way up. Pull the jackstands and lower the car.  You should be able to maneuver the engine/tranny out without dinging anything.

Now...whats next? Hell if I know but I will make a comment that if you are stabbing in a longer BMW 6 cylinder....You will have to stand the engine on end. Especially if the tranny is hooked up. I did a mock up
using an M30 3.2l out of a 733. With the transmission hooked up. Stand her up. Drop it down. As it was lowered, I had to go back under the car to make sure the tranny was sliding towards the rear of the car.
Once it was in I placed a floor jack under the tranny to lift it up. Slid the engine mounts in and then lowered the block the last few inches.

What ever you are doing have fun. That is what it is all about. It isn't rocket science.

ryanjv

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #25 on: February 05, 2014, 02:17:35 PM »
Haha, I've ordered almost the exact same parts you did.  Still deciding on a suspension set up though.  Can't wait to follow along so i can get a better idea on some of it, and things to watch out for if you run into issues.  I picked up backing plates and bearings for all all 4 wheels as well.  I'll be testing out my new shop press.  Picked up a 12 Ton from harbor freight for 100.  I figured why not try it.

Where did you pick up the O2 sensor and how much was it, if you don't mind my asking.  Best i've found is about $110, which makes me want to try this
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=256671 and splice in a Bosch sensor for a ford mustang... Amazon has it for $33 but if you found it not much more i may just buy it for convenience

I'm stuck on my hand brake cables too.  PBblaster is just not cutting it.  I was thinking of attaching them to my tow hook of my other car and just ripping it out

Nick_318is

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #26 on: February 06, 2014, 08:05:03 AM »
H&R Sports and Bilstein Sport combination for suspension, not too low, not too high.

Darky

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #27 on: February 10, 2014, 05:05:58 AM »
Why so rusted? Did it live near a beach or something?
Is there some sort of cover on the differential?

Darky

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #28 on: February 10, 2014, 10:39:21 PM »
I have a 4.1 diff, in my car!
But I would much prefer a 3.73!
At 110 km/h I'm pushing 3000 rpm in 5 th. Too much!
Stick with the 3.73 or 3.9 particularly if your going to turn your motor in to a 2 or 2.1 l. It won't care with the extra torque that it give you! And with all the work you are doing on the body, you would be nuts not to when you do the engine rebuild!

Darky

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Re: 1991 318iS resto
« Reply #29 on: February 11, 2014, 11:34:24 PM »
Have you turned yours into a 2.0? I hadn't even thought of that....  ???  If you did what HP do you have? How did you do it?



I started with a e30 318i. In Australia they are m40 powered sohc timing belted buckets with about 3 kW move than your average go cart!
Loved the handling of the car though which was originally my mums. When she died I inherited it.
It basically lived in my garage for about 10 years!  :)

But then I drove a 318is thinking to buy it! But couldn't see myself selling my e30. Also in oz they make it very hard to put an engine into a car that it didn't come out with!

So i brought an m42 engine and started rebuilding it.
When I brought the engine and it was running in car and was told it will rev to 9000k. Collision victim!
The dme chip was altered and I have not found any real non standard parts in motor to warrant those kind of revs!

I have rebuilt 2 engines before l20b and fj20t so when I took the rocket cover off the m42 I stood there and looked at hydraulic lifters and thought where are the tappets for about an hour!  :o

Anyway metric mechanic do a complete m42 either 2l or 2.1l motor but they are very $$$$.
A couple of seniors around here have them but I still am waiting for photos. Would love to see them!

But a few years ago a guy came up with a cheaper alternative  ;D
By using s50 pistons 86 mm and m47 crank 87 mm 2l (my plan)
             S52 pistons 86.5 and m47 crank 87 mm 2.05l
             S50 pistons and m44 crank 1.9l
             S52 pistons and m44 crank 1.95l
Thereabouts!
Hartge even made a 88 mm crank.

Heaps of possible combinations and the parts are relatively inexpensive.

But the compression ratio goes up depending on combo you use.
So no more unleaded for these engines and straight to 96 or 98 octane.
Don't know what your octane rating the fuel you use is?

Any way my engine is in bits still getting bored and pistons decked crank key way cut.
Can't wait till it's done, but I'm working on my head, port and polishing.
What will drive me mental though is the afm, it will restrict me badly.

That's what I'm upto here in oz. but there are heaps of engine builds going on around here!
Some are even using s50 throttle bodies.