THIS THREAD IS ABOUT : Timing things, Oil pan is good to check, Crank nut removal...

[Alpine003]

but its going to have to first overcome the compression of the engine paired with the grab of the clutch, which i would imagine SHOULD keep it there...? the starter method sounds pretty good to me tho.

Sometimes, sometimes not. I guess he can always try it the other method first but personally, I would like to just be done with it in a minute rather than an hour struggling with it.

[pepe m42]

hi...
i did the starter method, at least 10-15 times, and it didn't work, i dont do it any more because im not happy with cranking the engine since i know what could be under the cover. i talked to a metal fabricator and he will make the tool just like the one it this thread http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1188 i hope it will work out but i have to wait because it will take a few days because the guy who make the tool is kind of bussy....  
in a few days i ll drop some more info and pictures about how is everything.
thanks guys!!!

[RED IS 91]

That tool looks like it would stop a tug boat!!!!! That's gotta work .
Let us know how you make out.
good luck

[pepe m42]

guys!!! i dont think i understand this......
finally i could rape the bolt of, that thing works WELL.

i opened the front timing cover and i think every thing is in verry good condition, looks nearly new. As i sad every single thing there (from timing chain to seals) was changed by BMW in Spain (Alicante). i used the car 1 and a half year since that time, i did 45 000 KM. so it should be OK.
so the possibility of what happened is: the old timing rail (what BMW left in there) stayed in the oil pan and it pluged the oil suck up whole in the oil pan and i think the engine stucked for a littlebit because of oil circulation.

i also find a piece of the old rail when i removed the lower timing chase, it was stucked in those wholes where the oil goes down from the timing chase, so BMW did a hell of a S***T job. also im just guessing but still this is the only thing i can possibly think of...

please write me something about what you guys think about this.

please read the first post of this thread and tell me what dou you think about what could be happend.

if the engine has no oil suck up possibility then dou you guys think it could be what happened? ( ......was like it did 2-3 miss fire or some like that, the has a nois like a truck, then it starts up like a low battery problem, then everything was okay............)

if there was a oil problem you guys think i will see it when i check the compression?

THANKS FOR EVERY BODY AND THE FORUM IS COOL!!!!!!

[romkasponka]

Inspect crankshaft and con. rods bearings.

Was the low pressure light on when you was driving?

Just clean pipe screen and sump.

[pepe m42]

the light didn't came on, but affter when i tried to start the engine, it did start up quickly but the starter couldnt roll the engine easily, it was like when the battery if low, any way the engine did start up and the oil pressure light wnt of a little slow and did a few lash the sound of the engine was kind of matching with the flashes of the oil light.  When i got home it was the same as before , i took a look at the crank and the shell bearings but i didnt took of the bottoms of the connecting roods, i just tried to see if they have any freeplay on the crankshaft, they have a verry little moveing of freeplay... i dont know if it should have any freeplay.

im still working on it and i will let you guys know whats up, util that please write me ideas, about what could happened...
thanks

[D. Clay]

Check this out also:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1500
There are specialty tools in several different threads. If you have any please also post the info in:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1519
This is a Sticky in the "How To" forum section. We have a lot of special BMW tools among the M42Club members.

[Alpine003]

any way the engine did start up and the oil pressure light wnt of a little slow and did a few lash the sound of the engine was kind of matching with the flashes of the oil light.

Parts blocking the oil pickup from the pan can allow your oil light to stay on a bit longer when you first start it. This is what happened to me. If you removed any foreign parts from the lower pan right away, there's probably no harm done. But if you drove like this over a period of time at constant high rpm's, you could have some accelerated engine wear among other things

Like I said before, just check your compression and report back.

[romkasponka]

I am not experienced with engines but I think bearings will get more damage if oil pressure is too low.

[pepe m42]

so hopefully tomorrow i get my new gaskats and i can put back all the things, i had inspected every thing, i hope it will be okay affter i m done, my first is to go for the compression test!  it will tells me if something wrong.
THANKS i will post if i have new things to say

[scottiesharpe]

Havng timing components grenade on you is no fun.

The damage comes when chunks of the chain guide break off and lodge in between the gear teeth and chain and the cams slip.

I had this happen on my M88 motor. $14,000 in damage. Luckily I did the work myself and it only cost me $7500 to rebuild.

http://bmwturbos.scottiesharpe.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1367

Here is a funny video I did of my drunk friends and I trying to loosen a crank nut on my friends M106 motor.

Enjoy!

http://bmwturbos.scottiesharpe.com/uploaded/scottie/bignut.wmv

[pepe m42]

Havng timing components grenade on you is no fun.

The damage comes when chunks of the chain guide break off and lodge in between the gear teeth and chain and the cams slip.

I had this happen on my M88 motor. $14,000 in damage. Luckily I did the work myself and it only cost me $7500 to rebuild.

http://bmwturbos.scottiesharpe.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1367

Here is a funny video I did of my drunk friends and I trying to loosen a crank nut on my friends M106 motor.

Enjoy!

http://bmwturbos.scottiesharpe.com/uploaded/scottie/bignut.wmv

yes i had a simmilar 3days story about that crank nut:)  the video is funny!
fortunetaly i find out nothing was damaged , only the oil intake whole was blocked and than the engine had some oil starwing... i ll put some pictures about what i see uder the cover. I just want you guys to take a look at it and write me if you think there is something in bad condition or something strange.... thanks!!!

[pepe m42]

here are the pictures

[pepe m42]

hi again guys!

i did the compression test ad its
1> 13.4bar
2> 13.4bar
3> 13.0bar
4> 14.0bar

i know the normal is 10-11
but i read in some manuals and bmwman91 post somewhere on bimmerforum so it's possibly just because of some carbon build up in culprit...
any way its better then under 10bar:)

so what the problem is, you guys remember i said i felt like a missfire or bugging, when i had the problem about having the oil suckup whole blocked by some metal piece in the oil pan....

now this missfire problem remains, only when im on the highway and going over or around 4000rpm,   its happend only a few times,  when it happens i just released the gaspedal wait a few sec. then all goes back normal, iff i try again to go faster then it happens randomly again.  if i go 1st 2nd 3...with full gas, nothing happens, acctualy its better then it was. so i think when i had this "oil whole blocked" thing, my engine got hot because of no oil going around in there ( sure the engine was stuck a bit because when i tried to restart it the starter was cranking harder/slower then normal, which means there was heavy friction without oil.) and the exhaust system got too hot too and it might killed my O2 senzor.
the guy at the repair shop, where i did my compression test he also puted the thing in the end of the exhaust and he said the o2 senzor or the MAF is bad, but he was not sure.... he said its some fuel,air problem...

now, i think if the MAF is dead then i sould have problems quiet often, and at an exact RPMs...

this problem never happened before the "oil whole blocked" problem

the o2 senzor is only functioning when its get s to the proper temperature  ( as i know, but i could be wrong...) so i think when i get on the high way and goig for a while then i try to go beetwen 4000 and redline, then this problem happens randomly, a few times.

anybody had bad o2 sensor experience?
could it be the o2 sensor?
is it possible to kill the o2 sensor with over heating it?

sorry for the long writes up, i just try to explain what is happening...

also SORRY for my english, i have to improve it....

Thanks guys!!!

[romkasponka]

misfire could be because oh ignition and injection.

I had experience with bad O2 sensor, the engine loose power, but without misfire..

It could be spark plugs, wires and coils.

Injectors...