THIS THREAD IS ABOUT : Timing things, Oil pan is good to check, Crank nut removal...

[sheepdog]

Bummer.
Very definitely the timing chain guide.

Do not drive it like that.

I am betting bent valves, due to the chain jumping a tooth, which was the "hiccup" you heard and felt.  It would explain the loss of power.

Deal with it now or it will only get worse. Be prepared for a lot of work. This is a pretty expensive repair to do on your own, and VERY expensive to pay a dealer to do it.

You will definitely need to change all the rails, sprockets and chain, that is several hundred alone. Also consider changing the timing chain/oil pump housing ($300+) while there, do it now, or do it later... your choice. You may already need to if those chain guides broke a post, which does happen when this sort of thing happens.

[sheepdog]

A word of advice:

Check your cam timing and raalign if necessary then do a compression test to make sure you have no signs of bent valves. If you have bent valves, it might be more cost effective to buy a used motor to put in instead.

Very good advice, though the new motor could do the same shortly after, it is waaaay cheaper.

[sheepdog]

How does that stuff make it to the oil pan? There doesn't seem to be a big enough hole anywhere.

Look just to the left of the oil pump and lower timing chain guide rail.
Those holes lead to the pan and they are bigger than they look.

[sheepdog]

wow from all these threads about timing chains and things going bad I'm afraid of even starting my car now!!

Oh, it will not happen at idle
It waits till you are at 5-6k, then grenades the pump. :mad:
This way it does maximum damage.


Pull your valve cover and lower pan. Make sure no bolts are in there, no metal shavings, and look over the timing chain and cam sprockets. The cam sprockets are the slowest to wear, so if they show signs of wear, it is time to think about rebuilding the timing case.


One thing you sort of have to accept with these cars:
They will break.

In this way, they are similar to a Ferrari, you can drive it, and have it break while having fun, or you can leave it in the garage and have it break each time you do drive it. Or you could buy a different car.

The good side is these are cheaper and easier to work on. If you are careful about how you fix things and follow what others have done on here to remedy things, you will get away pretty cheap when even major things happen.

These cars have always had a pretty high maintenance cost (about $1000 per year average). I went in knowing this and by doing things myself it has been about half to 3/4 so far. If it has been a while since something major broke, expect something soon. Just how it is, they were never meant for poor students to own unfortunately.

Drive your car, enjoy it, expect it to break.
No sense in being paranoid or freaking out.





And get AAA.

[denious]

I'm a poor college student with no garage lol, it's OK I'll manage somehow! Getting a garage in June and checking all of this out, for now it's getting other repairs (and I'm not gonna drive it in winter anyways). I love my car.

And get AAA.

[pepe m42]

thanks again for all the info....

im going to have a look at it now, jesterday i couldn't unscrew the big 22'' crank bolt, if any good idea.... wwelcome
i was trying BP's e30 web site it say to pot a power bar and turn the engine a few tomes, i did but nothing happened, and i dont think is a good think to do now while there is a mess in around the timing .

i hope the housing is okay, then i can manage the damaged valves from that money.

yes anyway, if i do need to change the valves,than what is reasoable to change its a bit pricey any sugestion....

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF91&mospid=47256&btnr=11_0438&hg=11&fg=25

and how i know what size i will need

any DIY link for changing valves? or any advices?
thanks again!!!

[kowalski]

if your going to reuse the head, then get it checked for cracks and warpage by a machine shop before you start putting any money into it.

[sheepdog]

If you have head and timing housing damage, look into another engine.
I got one for $200, though I had to drive 250 miles.

Take that motor, put a new timing chain and sprockets on it (you may not need the guides, saving you even more) and use it. Just use your exhaust and intake, accessories, etc.

Even at $400, this would be a much cheaper alternative.
You figure getting the head fixed and the timing housing alone will crack  $400. Those timing chain guides are EXPENSIVE as hell for what they are.

[pepe m42]

hi again...

i still have problem to remove the crankshaft bolt, but i removed the head cover and the upper timin chase , the chain looks fine and the two big sprocket has no damage at all, but i couldn't remove the big crank 22'' bolt, so i didn't see what's behind the lower timing chase.
it's might be better to go to a truck shop and get some serious strong stuff to unbolt that bolt.

if any ideas on removing this bolt, just let me know please.

here is a pictures, this how i end up:(

[RED IS 91]

I've never taken that bolt off and hope I don't have to but I've read that you put the hand brake on nice and tight and use a breaker bar with a pipe slid over the end for leverage and it will come free .

[kowalski]

you would have to have it in gear was well, then it will keep the car from turning over. then put a massive breaker bar on it, unless you have air and a nice big impact gun.

[sheepdog]

Never use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt.
You probably destroyed the torque setting so snapping off the front was no loss).

Go buy a cheap 1/2in breaker bar ($20) and put a length of pipe on it for leverage.

[pepe m42]

thanks for the info, yes the trouqe wrench was broken allready:) that's why i didnt care to much about it, tomorrow i ll buy a 3/4 thing so hopefuly it wont break...

hey people thanks again to help me out, i was looking back in this forum i found a few other guys with similar problem. and i find a few answer for ''how to loosen the crank bolt.  

so thanks to answer me again!

anybody know if its possible to change the name ''just read it please'' to some timing problem or stuffs in the oil pan...  becuse then its better for those who will facing with similar problems in the future.

thanks and i ll let you know guys how things are, tomorrow.

THANKS!!!

[Alpine003]

Use the starter method. Let your starter loosen the bolt for you. As for having it in gear, you might slip your clutch even with a nice breaker bar as the bolt is tightened above what the stock clutch can grab.

[kowalski]

Use the starter method. Let your starter loosen the bolt for you. As for having it in gear, you might slip your clutch even with a nice breaker bar as the bolt is tightened above what the stock clutch can grab.

but its going to have to first overcome the compression of the engine paired with the grab of the clutch, which i would imagine SHOULD keep it there...? the starter method sounds pretty good to me tho.