Another M42 engine build

[Warsteiner]

Ok....   So your inj's came out about the same as mine which makes my point even more valid. I'm guessing after 2 definitive tests they are actually 19.5# inj's.

Mike....It's always better to have a tune for a new motor when you've made all these changes....and you've made extensive changes. It's not the same motor. You will most definitely need 24# inj's.

If you stay with the AFM/ECU then have Barrie send you a decent tune to make you safe especially with those inj's. If you have a STOCK chip you could cruise around a little bit but I would not go full throttle on that motor without a tune!  Then you can decide if you want to stay with the stock ECU and AFM or bump up to some real power with MAP or A-N and bigger inj's on a standalone. Like Nick said....there are people that can get you up and running and then you have to learn or make friends with someone that has experience with your set up in your area. I'm on a learning curve too. The maps for AFM/TB are way different than MAP/ITB's. But it is doable!! Tuner Studio has an auto-tune function for the VE table and you can target your AFR's in MSII. I'm sure Nick's VEMS does the same thing.

You have a support group!!  LOL  If you really want to stay simple then work with Barrie on getting a really good tune. He's the man to help you. I would send him a direct PM and ask him if he can help you do what your thinking and not worry about it anymore

Cheers,
~Ralph

Happy Turkey Day everyone!!

[jolle21]

Well I suppose the good news is when I heard the snap it wasn't the cam.



I was installing the cam per Wayne's instructions.  I didn't notice that as the cam was being pulled down so was my Magilla Gorilla giant Crescent wrench head I was using to hold the sweet spot.  Why didn't I use my small one? :-(

Anyone have a cam tray they want to get rid of or any suggestions?  Leave it? JB Weld?

It's the exhaust side.

Love the details of you're build, also wanted to comment that I think it's awesome that you and you're son are doing this together. As much as I want my 3 year old to stay 3, I can't wait to build cars engines with him.

Anyways, I ran across a local ad here in SoCal and noticed the guy had M42 cam trays for sale. I can reach out to him for you and ship them out to you if you still want to replace it.

I'm sure you can leave it as is, but I'm pretty anal and need everything in tact plus you have such pretty pistons hahaha.

Let me know! Here's the ad;

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/4217163451.html

HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!!

[mabeer]

Jolle21-thanks for the kind words and the heads up on the trays.  You're right I couldn't leave it and already have one coming from Germany.  I know what you mean about wanting them to stay 3.   I was the same way but I tell you even though it goes way too fast every stage is great. It just keeps getting better.

Ralph-do you have the part number on those injectors? With injectors that size do I have to worry about washing down the cylinder walls?

I'll touch base with Barry again.  Ultimately I'd really like to get into the tuning side of it.

Hey Nick, Does Vems have a similar auto function?

Thanks again for everyones help.  My buddy who has a shop close by says I'm fearless diving into stuff I know nothing about.  I tell him only because of you guys... My life raft

[Warsteiner]

These are the Ford Motorsport ones.
0 280 150 947. You will absolutely need a tune for these inj's to make them work.
You can't use these as just a replacement for the stock inj's.  These probably won't run on a stock time or even an aftermarket chip.

Cheers,
~Ralph

[mabeer]

These are the Ford Motorsport ones.
0 280 150 947. You will absolutely need a tune for these inj's to make them work.
You can't use these as just a replacement for the stock inj's.  These probably won't run on a stock time or even an aftermarket chip.

Cheers,
~Ralph

Okay, let me see if I've got this.  I may be able to get by with stock injectors and stock chip if we take it easy, better to get a tune from Barry for added protection, best to step up to the plate size injectors appropriately w/ custom tune.  Is that about right?

[Warsteiner]

My best suggestion would be to get the new inj's, then contact Barrie and get a tune of sorts going with him and then go drive the car!
Sell your fresh stockers on this list because we all know someone is in need of them.....

If you wanted to start the car and drive it around lightly you could get away with a stock chip because its all part throttle driving and the timing is tame. You have to have like a dozen eggs between your foot and the pedal!

The 24#'s will not work with anything but some sort of a custom tune either stock ECU or standalone. There will just be too much fuel otherwise.

And!!!.....If you haven't drained your gas tank yet, now is a great time to do that before you start the car. Old gas will just not cut it.

Cheers,
~Ralph

[wazzu70]

The VEMS system has an autotune function for fuel mapping too. Actually if any system did not offer that feature I would be scared. Its very simple to accomplish with todays hardware capabilities.

I actually was looking over someones MS3 tune yesterday which used an updated version of TunerStudio. The updated version of the software was much better than the version I had used previously. Just an FYI.

[mabeer]

I've got a question about updating the deflection wheel to a deflection rail.  Using RealOEM to compare the 318is M42 to a Euro E36 M42 I believe I would need the following from the Euro E36 M42:

Lower Timing Chain Case  11141739699
Gasket                               11141743032
Deflection Rail                    11311739130
Filister Head ScrewsX2       07119919824
More gaskets                     11141247429

Also listed as different but not sure if needed:

Trigger Contact                   12141247258
Filister Head Screw               11421740488
Pulse Generator                   12141247259
Filister Head Screw              11421740488

I might take a flier on it, but the biggest concern is the block number has a different part number associated with it.  Anyone know if this is possible?  My concern is that the block has changes that pair with the lower timing case in which case the lower timing case wouldn't fit on the old block. I've searched a lot and haven't found a definitive answer.  Thanks.

I went ahead and did this. The primary reason to do this is to remove the deflection wheel, which has been reported by some to be a failure point, and replace it with a guide rail. If you're interested here is what you'll  need:

Lower Timing Chain Case 11141739699
Gasket, case to block       11141743032   metal gasket much improved
Deflection Rail                 11311739130   replaces old style deflection wheel some of you have had trouble with
Filister Head ScrewsX1     07119919824   You just need one of these as you can use the one from the deflection wheel.  BMW no longer carries
                                                             them but it's a M6X35
Bottom deflection rail       11311734694   Old syle doesn't fit the new case.  Also need new, shorter bolts M6X25
Filister head screws X2     07119919926   M6X25 for bottom deflection rail
Washers X2                     07119931044   
Gasket set, TC cover        11141247633   Much improved metal gaskets. 2 gaskets included replace the 5 paper gaskets.

Pretty straight forward swap.

[mabeer]

I've got a question for you guys.  I had all kinds of trouble with the new cam tray getting the caps to center properly so the cam would rotate freely.  There's plenty of clearance.  What I did with the help of the machine shop was remove the lifters, torque the cams down lightly while tapping the cam on the side with a brass drift.  Scared the crap out of me but they say sometimes they have to beat on the cams with a 4 lb sledge in order to get them to seat properly (this is on big industrialdiesel engines).  So we just played around and tapped and low and behold it rotated smoothly. 

Fast forward to today, I installed the cams in the head but with spring pressure on first lobe I didn't feel comfortable using the brass drift method (plus not enough hands).  Someone told me the spring pressure will help seat properly and take the place of the drift.  My concern is cap 2 is the only one torqued down with any spring presure.  1, 3, 4 & 5 were unloaded as per Wayne's Pelican article.

Anything I can do?  Now that they're mounted I can't tell if they rotate freely because of the springs.  Am I being overly paranoid?

[bmwman91]

What sort of lubricant did you put in the cam journals before assembly? If you make sure to have a uniform coating of assembly lube on there, it should ensure that the cam is centered between the cap & tray with a mil or two of clearance on each side.

[mabeer]

What sort of lubricant did you put in the cam journals before assembly? If you make sure to have a uniform coating of assembly lube on there, it should ensure that the cam is centered between the cap & tray with a mil or two of clearance on each side.

I used Federal Mogul Sealed Power Assembly Lube (it's what my local machine shop uses.)

[bmwman91]

Aaah, well you should be good in that regard then. I'd say to get the caps on and see if the thing rotates (I think it should).

[wazzu70]

You should be fine as long as the caps and trays are from the same set and in the correct order.

I think it was you who ordered a new tray. In this case it may need to be libe honed with the caps to make a matching set.

Someone on bimmerforums used the wrong caps for his trays which led to larger clearance than usual. He had low oil pressure because of it.

Might be worth looking into. Its a PITA to remove them again, but better safe than sorry!!

[mabeer]

Caps are the ones that came with trays they just took some fussing to get smooth rotation whereas the old was always just as smooth as butter. We eventually got the new smooth but like I said it was with a lot of messing around.  Now with buckets in and consequent spring pressure I'm unable to gauge resistance.  Don't think I can line hone because clearance is at upper end as it is.  Machine shop suggested backing torque off to a couple of foot pounds and rotate through a couple cycles using spring pressure to replace the brass drift we used.  Still not sure if it will make a difference and still won't be able to tell.

[mabeer]

Picked up a used cam tray from totheredline over at r3v.  Dropped it in and smooth as butter.  Now if someone could just tell me where I put the *&^%$# oil pan bolts I can get this buttoned back up