Author Topic: Oil Pressure (Read 10530 times)

sheepdog · « **Reply #30 on:** January 03, 2007, 11:58:45 AM »

Quote from: tim_s;16651

When you say thatthe lower timing cae forms the front part of the oil pump itself, what do you mean? I've never dissassembled the lower timing case, but thought that the casing was simply a casing and the rotors, spring, valve etc were the important bits. Should I change it? I'm not too keen to have to get in there again, I'm pretty keen to resolve this in one hit but its a lot of money for a new casing.

The gears sit inside the timing housing and a cover place forms the back half.

If you have oil slipping through on the sides you will lose pressure just as if the gears themselves are worn. Given that the housing is aluminum, that is most likely the worn part anyhow.

This is the backside of the timing housing minus the gears.

With the outer ring gear

tim_s · « **Reply #31 on:** January 04, 2007, 04:17:49 AM »

Thanks that's really useful. Makes a lot of sense. If I don't have time to pull things this weekend (I don't think I will), I'll order a new lower timing case next week.

nickmpower · « **Reply #32 on:** January 05, 2007, 03:09:54 AM »

wait....why are you getting a new case?

I have to put the oil valve in tmr, should i use a thin washer to put more pressure on the spring? I also read that there is a spec for the lenght of the spring

tim_s · « **Reply #33 on:** January 05, 2007, 09:43:14 AM »

Quote from: nickmpower;16837

wait....why are you getting a new case?

I have to put the oil valve in tmr, should i use a thin washer to put more pressure on the spring? I also read that there is a spec for the lenght of the spring

Where did you read about the spec nick?

as for the timing case, read this bit from sheepdog earlier on in the thread:

Quote

If you have oil slipping through on the sides you will lose pressure just as if the gears themselves are worn. Given that the housing is aluminum, that is most likely the worn part anyhow.

sounds like wise advice to me. will see how this wknd goes and if i dont find the time (car is not really a priority right now) then I'll order a new timing cover. I'd examine your existing one before splashing out however; a luxury I don't really have.

nickmpower · « **Reply #34 on:** January 05, 2007, 11:28:02 AM »

its like 84.4mm, or something. its in the repair manual

shim no shim?

tim_s · « **Reply #35 on:** January 06, 2007, 05:49:12 AM »

I don't know nick, wish i had the answer to that one myself!
I'm looking into trying some cam carriers and cams that are known to be quiet in my car to see if i'm losing pressure through wear there, as well as changing the oil pump. I'm going to leave the lower timing case for now and take my chances. I know that (maybe 20,000 miles ago) I had good oil pressure at the filter housing. I've just set up my block and tackle and cleared some room ready for possible engine removal or whatever. Really want to get this problem nailed now, will be a few weeks though due to other commitments.

nickmpower · « **Reply #36 on:** January 06, 2007, 11:36:24 AM »

my new spring was at least a mm longer then the old one so i left it out

tim_s · « **Reply #37 on:** January 07, 2007, 12:09:22 PM »

Ok well I've finally got onto working on my car today. Have no tappet noise now, changed the inlet cam carrier, inlet cam for a 264. Tested oil pressure and it is very good indeed, so haven't done any work on oil pump area. That will wait til I pull the engine - will leave that til the summer. With stethoscope to the rocker all is nice and quiet.
Sadly I have a pretty major unidentified ticking/tapping noise still remaining that I think of late I'd been confusing with my previous lifter noise. Sounds too major for injectors (and I've tried unplugging one injector at a time and can't identify a particular noisy injector) but is coming from that sort of area. I've had the ITBs apart but can't see anything. Spent all day on this problem, am out of ideas. Am going to pay someone to fix this i think. Have spent so long on this today without luck

I'm pretty worried about it, but it doesn't seem like its coming from the engine itself. It's a big old noise though and i'm not sure whether I should keep on driving the car or not.

kowalski · « **Reply #38 on:** January 23, 2007, 08:46:10 PM »

sticky valve(s)?

D. Clay · « **Reply #39 on:** January 23, 2007, 11:27:38 PM »

You have good oil pressure from the pump and lack of lubrication to the inlet cam bearings (scoring) and lifters (noise). You mention being able to remove the valve cover with no oil blowing from that area (again lack of lubrication). The lifters are quiet in another car (not lifters) and two sets of carriers rule them out. Scoring may mean something went through there.
Is oil present around the cam and/or lifters indicating sloppy tolerances. If not the oil just isn't getting there. All this says:
1) clogged or partially blocked passage(s)
2) misalignment of the block/head gasket/oil pump cover/head/carrier interface.

D. Clay · « **Reply #40 on:** January 24, 2007, 02:45:03 PM »

I'm not really up on fuel injection but was curious as to whether the injectors tick when they open, close, or both? At what point in the 4-cycle scenario do these ticks occur? That may help in determining if they are the culprit. With throttle bodies is the sound louder or the same?
What was different with the carrier that fixed the intake side?

tim_s · « **Reply #41 on:** January 25, 2007, 03:34:59 PM »

ah didn't notice these replies. d clay there is plenty of oil pressure out of the valve cap, i don't think i said that there was a prob there - either that or just me being depressed about the damn car. i questioned whether enough was coming through the breather, on inspection it was fine. scoring on inlet cam was strange, but that was there before i owned the car, so who knows. tappet clearance is spot on now and tappets are silent.
i still have a pretty major tapping noise, getting worse and worse. i've ran it to a local garage who have no ideas either. i've just built up a new late spec head with some re-lapped valves and new stem seals etc that i'm going to stick on, hopefully tmrw, will also take it to bmw specialists nearby. i'm hoping when i tear it down i'll find the culprit. i've considered whether its little ends, as i'm not 100% what they sound like, but seeing the engine is 10k miles and 6 months old and built by an engine shop i trust i'm not convinced. don't have many other ideas though.

as for injector noise, injectors make noises at different frequencies depending on the fuel injection system. e30 m42 fires the injectors in alternating batches (1+3, 2+4). i don't know the standard number of squirts per cycle. mine on MS did 2 squirts per cycle, alternating (to minimise pressure drop in the rail). injectors can tick on opening and closing, or just on opening.