Author Topic: Oil Pressure (Read 10520 times)

bmwman91 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2006, 06:40:20 PM »

Yes, I am interested to see your results. The tick is annoying, regardless of whether or not it is harmless, and I would not mind ridding myself of it.

Where to you have the PCV system routed to? Did you make a common vacuum system between the 4 runners post-TB or what? Where does the valve cover connect into the vacuum system?

kowalski · « **Reply #16 on:** December 23, 2006, 03:32:59 AM »

yeah i have the ticking noise, and it ONLY game after i rebuilt the head... its also intermittent, and i believe its starting to spread to a second lifter. I was going to replace them, but at 15$ each for 16 lifters, it seemed like an unnecessary cost as all of them checked out to be fine. perhaps it is the lifter not holding oil and its releasing it to fast causing the upward stroke of it to run insufficiently lubricated? I'm not trying to argue lack of oil pressure I'm just throwing out food for thought, as i too would like to solve this problem.

tim_s · « **Reply #17 on:** December 30, 2006, 11:54:51 AM »

ok so a little update. Have replaced my later e36 BMW tappets (the lighter ones) for some new vw ones. noise is still there. sadly it seemed if anything to be a bit quieter on the old tappets, though hopefully the new ones will settle a bit. Also changed the oil pickup, couldn't get to the spring sadly with just the lower sump off and the weather's terrible so that will wait.
Anyone know if the spring assembly etc can be replaced with just the upper sump pan off?
I'm going to fit an oil deflector under the crank when there too, if the problem remains then I'll change the whole lower timing case and oil pump rotors.
bloody cars.

tim_s · « **Reply #18 on:** December 30, 2006, 12:44:17 PM »

bmwman, yeah I do have a common vacuum rail across all 4 bodies, but I don't use this for crankcase venting, the rocker breather is simply attached to the intake plenum. I have wondered about the pressure difference between the plenum (before the throttle butterflies) and the crankcase, maybe I would be better off running it into the vacuum rail and using a valve... opinions?

nickmpower · « **Reply #19 on:** December 30, 2006, 12:48:57 PM »

Was your chain and every single one of your sprockets new when you rebuilt it?

tim_s · « **Reply #20 on:** December 30, 2006, 01:04:41 PM »

Hi nick, top sprockets and idler gear are original as they were as good as new; everything else is new. But I'm pretty certain the noise is not from the chain, it's the inlet tappets.

nickmpower · « **Reply #21 on:** December 30, 2006, 01:49:36 PM »

im just about to start putting my engine back together, would you recomend I fit a washer?

sheepdog · « **Reply #22 on:** December 30, 2006, 03:09:56 PM »

Quote from: tim_s;16455

Anyone know if the spring assembly etc can be replaced with just the upper sump pan off?

You must pull the upper and lower pan.

tim_s · « **Reply #23 on:** December 30, 2006, 03:53:11 PM »

yeah sorry sheepdog didn't make myself clear, i realise the lower pan has to come off to get the upper one off; what i really meant is is that all? Is the spring etc accessable from underneath with the upper pan out of the way or will i need to pull the lower timing case? Was tempted to try the spring before changing the whole lot, but am still undecided as to whether to go for the whole lot in one go.

sheepdog · « **Reply #24 on:** December 31, 2006, 03:29:45 PM »

Quote from: tim_s;16481

yeah sorry sheepdog didn't make myself clear, i realise the lower pan has to come off to get the upper one off; what i really meant is is that all? Is the spring etc accessable from underneath with the upper pan out of the way or will i need to pull the lower timing case? Was tempted to try the spring before changing the whole lot, but am still undecided as to whether to go for the whole lot in one go.

You should be able to slide the upper pan to the side far enough by lifting the motor a bit and get to it.

You can see it here...
The clip is visible when the pan is off.

Here is what it looks like with the upper pan removed (looking up at it), the spring is in the hole at the upper left in this picture. Left side is the front of the motor obviously.

tim_s · « **Reply #25 on:** January 02, 2007, 02:41:51 AM »

Thanks Sheepdog. Since changing the tappets the noise is actually quite a bit worse than before; it comes and goes a bit, but is pretty noisy. I'm now contemplating replacing the oil pump this weekend. Any opinions on whether its necessary to replace the lower timing case when there? My method was going to be to undo engine mounts, lift engine as high as I can, remove lower and upper pans, then take off timing chain, loosen cyl head and undo lower timing case. My rear crankshaft seal seeps a bit, so I'm tempted to pull the engine and do that while I'm there; although i'm not too worried about this as its not major. It might make this a lot easier to have the engine on a stand though. I only have a weekend, and that includes driving to and from my folks' place which has the garage and block and tackle that I'll need. All this will be on the back of fitting the tappets to my car and replacing 318-is' headgasket last week. I also have �200 ($400) of tax and around �6-700 ($1400) on insurance to pay this month; and have just spent $200 on rear tyres. Not too happy with my car at the moment.

romkasponka · « **Reply #26 on:** January 02, 2007, 03:18:56 AM »

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sheepdog · « **Reply #27 on:** January 02, 2007, 12:59:03 PM »

Quote from: tim_s;16627

Thanks Sheepdog. Since changing the tappets the noise is actually quite a bit worse than before; it comes and goes a bit, but is pretty noisy. I'm now contemplating replacing the oil pump this weekend. Any opinions on whether its necessary to replace the lower timing case when there? My method was going to be to undo engine mounts, lift engine as high as I can, remove lower and upper pans, then take off timing chain, loosen cyl head and undo lower timing case. My rear crankshaft seal seeps a bit, so I'm tempted to pull the engine and do that while I'm there; although i'm not too worried about this as its not major. It might make this a lot easier to have the engine on a stand though. I only have a weekend, and that includes driving to and from my folks' place which has the garage and block and tackle that I'll need. All this will be on the back of fitting the tappets to my car and replacing 318-is' headgasket last week. I also have �200 ($400) of tax and around �6-700 ($1400) on insurance to pay this month; and have just spent $200 on rear tyres. Not too happy with my car at the moment.

The housing/case must be remove to access the pump gears, but it also forms the front half of the pump itself.

Remove the crank bolt before removing the engine. Unless you have the proper tool and help, you will not get the bolt off while out of the car.
Another tip, unhook the radiator shroud and slide it towards the engine, then slide the radiator out. This will allow you to remove the shroud and make fan removal 100 times easier.

Gasket-wise, you need a bottom end kit, water pump, water neck, profile gasket, and upper timing chain cover gaskets. I re-used my valve cover gasket. Get some spray on gasket glue, it will make the timing housing much easier to put on.

With all those bills, I would hold off and get the money for everything before starting. Then go in and replace everything, chain, housing, pump, sprockets, tensioner, idler... This way everything in there is fresh. Let it be and just enjoy driving it for a while. You are not likely to hurt the engine, many cars have this issue, not just the 318.

tim_s · « **Reply #28 on:** January 02, 2007, 02:54:19 PM »

When you say thatthe lower timing cae forms the front part of the oil pump itself, what do you mean? I've never dissassembled the lower timing case, but thought that the casing was simply a casing and the rotors, spring, valve etc were the important bits. Should I change it? I'm not too keen to have to get in there again, I'm pretty keen to resolve this in one hit but its a lot of money for a new casing.

As for engine dissassembly, I've had m4xs apart quite a few times dude, crank bolt etc is no problem. I don't have a radiator shroud, electric fan for me! Also my engine is new, so all timing chain parts etc are 6 months and around 10,000 miles old, I will only change what is essential to change (profile gasket, head bolts, both sump gaskets). Only thing that I'm not sure of is whether I can simply undo the engine mounts, hoist the engine up using block and tackle and give myself enough clearance to remove the upper sump and fit an oil deflector etc.
iirc the engine can be lifted a fair bit with the exhaust and box still fitted. if not, might be a bit tricky.

The reasons for being so concerned are pretty simple. My engine and car in general is worth a lot of money, and I want it to run properly after all I've put into it. This year I'm likely to do a load of miles, and do some european driving and probably a ring trip as well as some track time; it must be on top form. I also have a new wilder profile inlet cam to go in and I don't want to score it with insufficient oil supply etc. Also the noise is bloody annoying, and with the amount of mileage I do I simply can't put up with this noise. I didn't do the oil pump when changing engine because I'm an idiot; I decided that it was working fine and knew my oil pressure was fine last time I had it tested, so left it alone. In hindsight, that wasn't wise, especially as I had had a cam whirr fom the inlet side of the head since I'd owned the car. For the same reasons I won't put solid lifters in (unless I absolutely have to); I want to get to the bottom of the problem and fix it properly, not work around it. good find though!
Cheers for the suggestions and advice
Tim

silverblades181 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 02, 2007, 03:02:42 PM »

I guess we'll have to wait some more before we can finally see a video of the 2.1 ITB M42

Good luck with finding your problem.