Author Topic: Wheel Studs (Read 6577 times)

Eurospec · « **on:** November 17, 2006, 06:23:33 AM »

I'm thinking about converting to studs. Looks like Vorshlog offers a nice kit. Any other recommendations? What size kit would I need for ET25 wheels, 47, 60, or 80mm?

I'm also considering wheel locks. What do you guys think about these black tops? LINK Any additional leads would be appreciated, thanks.

dino245 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 17, 2006, 12:00:01 PM »

I just bought a set of wheels and am also looking into wheel studs. I liked there kit but I am causious about tread in studs. I would prefer to drill out the hub and press in some proper studs which a head to them. I can just see these tread in studs pulling out the hub treads after torquing the wheel and then loosing a wheel on the track, not fun. I am sure many people have used them and not had any problems but I am just paranoid, you dont see manufacturers using this method to cut cost or make production quality better. my 2 cents.

2002maniac · « **Reply #2 on:** November 17, 2006, 02:38:49 PM »

I have had the Vorshlag 60mm studs on my car for over six months. They are great as far as functionality goes. They have aslo seen plenty of abuse on the track.

Alpine003 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 17, 2006, 04:30:58 PM »

Quote from: Eurospec;13937

I'm thinking about converting to studs. Looks like Vorshlog offers a nice kit. Any other recommendations? What size kit would I need for ET25 wheels, 47, 60, or 80mm?

I'm also considering wheel locks. What do you guys think about these black tops? LINK Any additional leads would be appreciated, thanks.

60mm works for me on 25mm but if you don't mind it sticking out a bit and want to play it safe, 80mm would allow any future wheel changes to a lower offset.

The wheel lock looks like trouble and I can see it failing.

Just remember to use anti seize on the studs.

GuySchalnat · « **Reply #4 on:** November 17, 2006, 11:02:11 PM »

The studs loosen up more at an autocross then the bolts, but once they get set, they stay set. On the track, I'd check them between sessions (and if you get a chance, drive around on them after putting the wheels on and check them before the first high speed session). I'm running 710's, so that's about as much abuse as a tire can put on studs. As they have gotten older, they have moved less when I check them.

Every time I take the nuts off, a few of them do back out a bit. I always hand tighten them before putting the wheels back on. Remember, they are hand tightened, not torqued, as they have no bearing surface.

-Guy

D. Clay · « **Reply #5 on:** November 17, 2006, 11:49:21 PM »

The length of studs depends on the thickness of the wheel flange and not the offset. When you look at the hubs there doesn't seem to be very much there for either studs or bolts but I've heard for years that the clamping force is only applied by the first few threads. Racing probably puts a lifetime of wear on the hub threads in five or six weekends.
If I was racing an E30 I would seriously look into drilling the hubs and using press in studs as described by dino245. If I wasn't racing an E30 I wouldn't worry about it.

Alpine003 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 18, 2006, 12:56:56 AM »

Quote from: GuySchalnat;14001

The studs loosen up more at an autocross then the bolts,

Just curious if this is happening even with the Loctite Red formula as this is suppose to be the industrial strength formulation.

2002maniac · « **Reply #7 on:** November 18, 2006, 04:35:01 AM »

Quote from: Alpine003;14009

Just curious if this is happening even with the Loctite Red formula as this is suppose to be the industrial strength formulation.

no way. He must not have used loctite. I just put new hubs on the front of my car and I had to torch the studs to soften up the loctite enough to get them out.

GuySchalnat · « **Reply #8 on:** November 20, 2006, 04:41:47 AM »

No, I didn't use loctite. I suppose I could, I just didn't think about it. Since I change my wheels like 25 to 50 times a year (street wheels to race wheels and back every autocross, 12 to 25 autocrosses a year), I figured that I was going to eventually have to replace the studs because the threads would take a beating putting the wheels on and off, so I wanted to be able to remove them.

I can't see any reason not to use it, however, as long as you are willing to work to get them out if they need replaced.

-Guy

Alpine003 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 20, 2006, 12:33:22 PM »

Quote from: GuySchalnat;14123

No, I didn't use loctite. I suppose I could, I just didn't think about it. Since I change my wheels like 25 to 50 times a year (street wheels to race wheels and back every autocross, 12 to 25 autocrosses a year), I figured that I was going to eventually have to replace the studs because the threads would take a beating putting the wheels on and off, so I wanted to be able to remove them.

I can't see any reason not to use it, however, as long as you are willing to work to get them out if they need replaced.

-Guy

Guy,
You might try the blue formula which isn't as strong as the red. This might prevent your studs from backing out at the same time, allowing you to change the studs relatively easily when you have to. It's worth a shot for $3.

e9nine · « **Reply #10 on:** November 20, 2006, 10:36:54 PM »

I have been using Studs for almost a year now. No regrets at all. I have the Bimmerworld Stud kit. Makes tire changes so much easier. I will be buying another set for the other car. Don't see how I lived without them before. I used red loctite and they aren't loose. I do check them every now and then.

On one of my older 318iS' it had an issue with the lug bolts in the rear coming loose :eek: no matter how well you had them torqued down :confused:

16v of Fury · « **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2007, 10:03:53 AM »

-Bumping an old thread-

Are any of you able to put stock centercaps back on the wheels, w/ studs in place? Or does the length of the studs prevent you from using centercaps?

sumyungguy · « **Reply #12 on:** May 20, 2007, 12:44:43 PM »

Quote from: 16v of Fury;26137

-Bumping an old thread-

Are any of you able to put stock centercaps back on the wheels, w/ studs in place? Or does the length of the studs prevent you from using centercaps?

Depends on the length of the studs.

Alpine003 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 20, 2007, 12:53:21 PM »

Quote from: 16v of Fury;26137

-Bumping an old thread-

Are any of you able to put stock centercaps back on the wheels, w/ studs in place? Or does the length of the studs prevent you from using centercaps?

You have to get 60mm or lower.

16v of Fury · « **Reply #14 on:** May 20, 2007, 02:46:29 PM »

Quote from: Alpine003;26157

You have to get 60mm or lower.

Great, thanks!