Author Topic: Replacing Timing Case (Read 3879 times)

PeabnutBubber · « **on:** January 20, 2012, 06:48:32 PM »

This is more or less a continuation of the thread about the tensioner but I thought this part should maybe get its own thread for the sake of organization.

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14151

I've received a new timing case from a guy on r3v who gave me a great price for it. (Dj Buttchugz) Now, I'm in the process of pulling everything out and replacing the cases.

Do you guys have any suggestions or tips on replacing this thing?
I found out that there's the oil pressure relief valve which should be updated or at least cleaned out and polished. As for the gaskets bmwman had a great permatex suggestion which I'll taking advantage of as well. Anything else I should know?

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #1 on:** January 20, 2012, 06:54:26 PM »

Quote from: bmwman91;109055

I highly recommend doing the job in an indoor setting. Getting the timing case back on is a real pain in the ass!

I recommend picking up some 0.005" brass shim stock. Try to get it in a length that is a little larger than the top of the timing case, and 3" or more wide.

I recommend using some Ultra Black silicone RTV in the channel on the top of the timing case and then pressing the profile gasket into it. Wipe off the excess. Spread a small amount of silicone assembly grease on the top of the gasket, and on the under-side of the head where the gasket mates. Don't forget about the big gasket that goes behind the case. There are locating sleeves in the block, so I sprayed both sides of this gasket lightly with gasket sealer, let them dry, and placed them onto the block.

Get the oil pump aligned with the crank, put the brass shim stock on top of the gasket and put the top partially under the head. You can then CAREFULLY use a jack to push up on the timing case to compress the profile gasket. I found that using a large wood clamp (across block & case) to pull the case bottom toward & onto the crank helped. Don't force it though, you need to get the oil pump into alignment first.

Then use the bolts to do the rest. The profile gasket will probably squeeze out at its ends a little. I trimmed these off & used big dabs of RTV to make sure it all sealed. Run your finger inside the hole by the thermostat housing and make sure that the gasket is nice & even around the perimeter...you don't want this blowing out.

As for the brass shim stock that it now stuck between the head & gasket, you are going to need to pull it out with some vise-grips. I pulled the kidney grills out to pull straight onto it. Work it from the sides & middle a little at a time. I was stupid and "lubricated" this part with more RTV, and it made things very very difficult. Eventually, I yanked the shim stock out. Silicone assembly grease should make this step much easier.

Alternatively, you can remove the cylinder head & replace all the stuff associated with that. It makes the timing case installation easier, although in the end it is still a pain.

This

bmwman91 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2012, 12:43:57 AM »

As long as you aren't a big dummy like I was, you will be OK. Lube up the brass shim stock with silicone assembly lube. For some reason I thought that RTV would function as lubricant. Stupid!

Alternatively, you might be able to use some water & dish soap. I am not sure if the silicone lube will lead to any sealing issues with the profile gasket (unlikely), but in the end it is your call! Hopefully someone else here can chime in.

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2012, 09:44:00 AM »

Thank you! I'm proud to say I got the new timing case on! Instead of brass shim I used a rigid plastic notebook cover (One of those 5-Star notebooks) and a rubber hammer to bump it slowly and evenly into place after I got it sitting on the crank. Same kind of technique but it went in surprisingly easy. I made sure to add some RTV to the case2head gasket as well. I was able to pull out without too much issue as well. I worried about the gasket which was kind of sticking out but as soon as I yanked out the plastic cover everything seemed to magically sit flush. *wipes forehead*

I put the oil pan on and today's work is putting everything back together and timing the whole deal. I never had to fully remove the upper oil pan btw in order to remove everything and clean up correctly. I did have to unbolt the steering rack for extra wiggle room. Putting it back in required some leg strength to kind of kick it back into place. Can't wait to put in all the new parts. As a bonus, I cleaned and repainted all of my covers.

It should hopefully be done today! It sure has been a long time. I also have pictures I want to add here of the moment the old case was pulled. It was a glorious achievement. Wish me luck today, I'll update soon.

Edit: I plan on adding more pictures here.

She's been begging me to let her help, but I'm like "Get outta here chicks don't know nothin' bout cars!"

DesktopDave · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2012, 10:16:35 AM »

Awesome. I can't wait to see your post about it firing up for the first time!

LOL...love the bird. We only get turkeys 'round these parts. My kids would definitely help out if there were chickens involved.

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #5 on:** February 18, 2012, 10:06:13 PM »

Alright, so after getting everything back together and finally the moment of startup.... it won't start. I need help here. It is cranking but the engine isn't turning. At times I get a backfire out of the intake. Also, there is a loud clacking sound and when cranking it with out the valve cover, it looks like the chain is jumping somewhere down in the lower section of the timing case. I can see it bouncing on the tensioned guide rail looking down into it with my flashlight. I don't really know what to do here. Any help is super appreciated.

Let me know of any other details that you guys may need.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #6 on:** February 19, 2012, 07:21:44 AM »

Are you sure the timing is perfect? That's the first thing I'd double check. Every time I put something back together and it won't work I walk away for an hour or so then go back & re-check my work carefully.

If the chain is slapping around I'd be suspecting the tensioner. Did you use the M44 type? Is the tensioner extended & locked? If you installed it extended it might need taken out & re-compressed to the locked position. I haven't seen many timing chains, but the few I've looked at would only vibrate a little, not much.

Are you sure the ignition harness, coils and plugs are all correct? It's been a while since that motor was together, they could be swapped. The stickers fell off mine and I had to chase them into the DME connector with a continuity test.

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #7 on:** February 19, 2012, 11:27:18 AM »

Thanks for the speedy reply, Dave. Ok, throughout the process, I do not ever remember touching anything having to do with ignition harness, coils, or plugs. If I did, it was because it was in the way of removing the timing case. The tensioner is definitely a newer one, I pulled it from the box, installed it compressed and then it opened up behind the guide. (Pushing it back in did a number on my fingers.)

It seems as if the chain is jumping in the case- as if it is being caught on something then let free. Timing was what I thought as well. However, I'm pretty sure I had it at TDC and then adjusted the cams after that but it could be possible that something moved.

Just to clarify, I'm getting backfiring from the inake. We saw flames shooting out from the underside of the intake boot. Which btw I thought was supposed to be sealed? And the engine does not start at all.

I should have waited like you said some time to come back to it last night or even slept on it. However, I may have went into bull mode and just tried to charge through. Ended up a little frustrated :p

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #8 on:** February 19, 2012, 06:53:17 PM »

EDIT: The timing was off by 90 degrees somehow before I did this part.

This is what I got today. I put cylinder 1 at TDC. (The top of the stroke) I adjusted the cams so that the two lobes over #1 were facing towards each other but up a little and the squares on the back of the cans were flat and even with each other. I checked TDC again to make sure it was maintained. (I paint markered the timing cover and the big crank wheel in spots corresponding to TDC) I double checked the wire order and then made sure I had gas. I crank and it sounds different from yesterday. It seems more normal now and the clacking is gone but there's still no start.

Can the timing still be off enough that it would prevent the engine from starting? I am definitely perplexed. The car has been sitting for 3-4 months. Is there possibly anything from the time sitting that could cause it not to start?

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #9 on:** February 20, 2012, 11:46:15 PM »

IT LIVES!!!

It turns out the crank sensor wire in the front was cut up and mangled. I took it apart and tried to do the best and cleanest job I could of splicing and reconnecting the wire and when I plugged it in..... BOOM. That sh*t works. It sounded a little crazy at first, I could hear the chain rattling and the engine was making a kind of higher pitched whining sound when revved, but that thing woke up from the dead. I feel like Dr. Frankenstein.

There is still a lot of ticking coming from either the valves or the lifters but otherwise it is sounding pretty good. I put some Rislone into the oil to see if that would help the ticking.

Also I just want to say thanks for the help you guys gave a noob like me who's never done more than change oil and spark plugs. I honestly could not have fixed it without the help of you guys and r3v. Great work team, we got another E30 out on the streets. I see a donation in the near future as well. This forum and r3v were my primary resources for doing this job. Again, thanks and you guys rock. :cool: