Author Topic: Extended tensioner slides in w/o force??? (Read 14481 times)

bflan2001 · « **Reply #30 on:** December 17, 2011, 05:53:35 PM »

Quote from: monko141;108927

Don't forget the new correct bolt for the right side guide rail 07 11 9 919 629. It is 5mm longer than the original to compensate for the adjusting screw. And if I was trying to do the job in one day I would have a spare one of these 07 11 9 919 941. I have had to use vice grips to get it off an m42 I have broken down.

i think i missed something here, what is the adjusting screw you're referring to that's different from the factory setup?

monko141 · « **Reply #31 on:** December 18, 2011, 09:26:15 AM »

Quote from: bflan2001;108983

i think i missed something here, what is the adjusting screw you're referring to that's different from the factory setup?

Here are a couple of pictures to show what I am talking about.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/Stan141/m42rebuild036.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/Stan141/m42rebuild037.jpg

monko141 · « **Reply #32 on:** December 18, 2011, 10:00:52 AM »

Looks familiar
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/Stan141/91%20Red/DSCN1570.jpg

d.hitchcock · « **Reply #33 on:** December 18, 2011, 10:33:28 AM »

Is that broken pulley Number 11 on RealOEM?

Is part of the broken pulley still stuck in the block? If so, how do you persuade it to come out? :-)

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=11_4367&hg=11&fg=25

bflan2001 · « **Reply #34 on:** December 18, 2011, 01:06:10 PM »

Quote from: monko141;109001

Here are a couple of pictures to show what I am talking about.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/Stan141/m42rebuild036.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/Stan141/m42rebuild037.jpg

thanks for the info, seems kind of stupid of BMW to sell an updated part without a necessary updated bolt to match. usually pelican will tell you that kind of info but i guess it's not common knowledge. what about the second part number you posted, 07 11 9 919 941, where does that go?

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #35 on:** December 18, 2011, 02:20:48 PM »

Quote from: d.hitchcock;109004

Is that broken pulley Number 11 on RealOEM?

Is part of the broken pulley still stuck in the block? If so, how do you persuade it to come out? :-)

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=11_4367&hg=11&fg=25

The pulley itself is fine oddly enough. What is broken is the actual timing case itself. I want to replace it but I don't know if I am going to have to remove the head and the oil pan and stuff. Does anyone know of a write up?... or maybe someone can give me some details of the job if they've done it before.

d.hitchcock · « **Reply #36 on:** December 18, 2011, 03:50:44 PM »

Ah, I see. Now I think I understand the pictures. The case broke where the pulley mounted to it? That does suck!

As far as pulling the head and oil pan, I can't see that as being all that much more work, given how deep you are into the engine now.

I've never worked on an M42, though, to speak of, so take my thought with a huge grain of salt.

Do you have to do something crazy like lower the front subframe or steering gear to get to the oil pan?

I mean, been there, done that on an M20. But still! :-)

dh

bmwman91 · « **Reply #37 on:** December 18, 2011, 04:10:19 PM »

OK, here's what you do. Get an M44 timing case (used ones are cheap, just ask around here, r3vlimited & bimmerforums). It does not even bother with that stupid sprocket. Instead, it has a plastic guide rail there. It has been discussed in here, and is a direct swap as far as I am aware. I would have done it had I known about it back in July when I pulled it all apart.

You should ask around in here about it. A few folks have done it & may be able to give some pointers.

I am glad that you found the issue before anything really serious happened. It is a bummer, believe me, I know. My oil pump ate a chunk of timing chain in 2006 and exploded part of the timing case.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #38 on:** December 18, 2011, 08:57:04 PM »

+1 on that. Upgrade to all the newest parts, BMW really improved the motor as time went on. Most of the M44 parts are a direct fit, though some are a far cheaper spec.

I know for sure someone posted a writeup here, but I couldn't find it. IIRC one significant difference was the oil pump rotor was changed to a different thickness, but still works on the M42 crank. I haven't done this yet myself (so take this with a grain of salt), but I'd figure on a new gasket set, front main seal & water pump.

***edit***
Here it is. Mike posted some great pics. He has some detailed info, maybe PM him to see if he ran into any snags.

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #39 on:** December 19, 2011, 07:10:45 PM »

Thanks a ton again, I'll start a new post in WTB and see if I get any bites. I might be able to get the car to an enclosed garage soon and then most of this work will be a little easier.

I've read about the upgraded timing components and I'll see how fast I can get them. Hopefully acquiring this case doesn't cause me too much pain. I'd hate to see what the dealer charges but for the sake of time it may come to that!

d.hitchcock · « **Reply #40 on:** December 19, 2011, 08:09:29 PM »

I already checked the price on Pelican.

FWIW, I'm asking around my peeps to see if I can find one.

I will let you know.

dh

bmwman91 · « **Reply #41 on:** December 20, 2011, 12:00:04 AM »

I highly recommend doing the job in an indoor setting. Getting the timing case back on is a real pain in the ass!

I recommend picking up some 0.005" brass shim stock. Try to get it in a length that is a little larger than the top of the timing case, and 3" or more wide.

I recommend using some Ultra Black silicone RTV in the channel on the top of the timing case and then pressing the profile gasket into it. Wipe off the excess. Spread a small amount of silicone assembly grease on the top of the gasket, and on the under-side of the head where the gasket mates. Don't forget about the big gasket that goes behind the case. There are locating sleeves in the block, so I sprayed both sides of this gasket lightly with gasket sealer, let them dry, and placed them onto the block.

Get the oil pump aligned with the crank, put the brass shim stock on top of the gasket and put the top partially under the head. You can then CAREFULLY use a jack to push up on the timing case to compress the profile gasket. I found that using a large wood clamp (across block & case) to pull the case bottom toward & onto the crank helped. Don't force it though, you need to get the oil pump into alignment first.

Then use the bolts to do the rest. The profile gasket will probably squeeze out at its ends a little. I trimmed these off & used big dabs of RTV to make sure it all sealed. Run your finger inside the hole by the thermostat housing and make sure that the gasket is nice & even around the perimeter...you don't want this blowing out.

As for the brass shim stock that it now stuck between the head & gasket, you are going to need to pull it out with some vise-grips. I pulled the kidney grills out to pull straight onto it. Work it from the sides & middle a little at a time. I was stupid and "lubricated" this part with more RTV, and it made things very very difficult. Eventually, I yanked the shim stock out. Silicone assembly grease should make this step much easier.

Alternatively, you can remove the cylinder head & replace all the stuff associated with that. It makes the timing case installation easier, although in the end it is still a pain.

bflan2001 · « **Reply #42 on:** December 20, 2011, 11:28:54 AM »

damn, the more i read about replacing the timing components, the more i worry that i'm going to mess it up. i'm replacing the head at the same time so hopefully it'll be easy enough.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #43 on:** December 20, 2011, 11:53:59 AM »

If you are going to pull the head, then it is a lot less likely that you'll have an "oops" when re-installing the timing case. I always wanted to pull the head & take a look at the cylinders, and make the T.Case easier to put on, but I kept thinking, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

PeabnutBubber · « **Reply #44 on:** December 21, 2011, 04:30:26 PM »

Man, it looks like this job has grown to be a big one pretty quickly. I had to abandon the car for a little in order to visit the fam during the winter break, but when I come back I am returning with an engine hoist and a stand in order to take care of this engine. I'm not sure if it is totally necessary to pull it out but it may make the job easier and I'll be able to clean everything up and check other stuff as well. Unfortunately, working indoors is not really an option, so I'll have to do the best I can in the driveway.

If I upgrade to the M44 case, does anything else need to be replaced as well? as in can all the current parts be reused? I'm trying to decide between just going with another M42 T case if I find one of those first or if it really is worth is for the M44 one. I'll see the dealer tomorrow and get a quote for the M44 case to see what they say.

I like the suggestion for replacing the case bmwman, but if I pull out the engine it may just be better (and safer given my total inexperience) to pull the head carefully with one of the write ups on here. Then again, I'm not really sure of the plausibility of any of this until I jump in there. Again, I'm pretty new at all this and I'm learning everything as I go!