Thanks a lot for the info and pictures, bmwman. I haven't driven it since it started making that noise other than to drive it home. I guess I'll just suck it up and take everything apart. :/ So I'm going to go ahead and order the deflection wheel (idler sprocket) and maybe a couple order things preemptively and return them if unnecessary. It's so expensive though!
I THINK everything else is okay. Part of me just wants to order all the new parts necessary and overhaul the whole timing deal while I'm in there. It's an old car with probably over 200,000 miles on it so who knows what's been replaced and when.
The guide rails on the sides seemed to be intact so you are probably right; The problem is lower than I would have hoped. Probably that idler sprocket. I'm ordering it now. And maybe everything else too...Thanks for the help and your pictures are awesome. SUPER helpful. I'll try to take pictures tomorrow of what I find but it just depends on whether or not my girlfriend is around.. or at least her camera. I'll update with what I find.
Yeah, that stupid little sprocket is expensive! I was pissed when I found out how much one was.
My recommendation is to replace EVERYTHING while in there so you will never need to worry about it again. I also recommend using some Permatex gasket sealer on all paper gaskets for reassembly. I took everything apart & scraped all the crap off, and I didn't want it leaking again. I like this stuff since it is high-temp and resists motor fluids.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Spray-A-Gasket_Sealant.htmIt is also nice because you can get a nice even coating. The brush-on version is also good, but can be messy.
Also, reinstalling the upper cover is a little less straight forward than you might think. You need to compress it on the profile gasket so that it is flush with the head. You do this with some M6 screws & washers and the valve cover. Thread all upper cover bolts, but leave them a little loose so the cover can move around a little. Remove the VC gasket and use the washers / screws to clamp the valve cover down onto the top of the upper cover and press it flush with the head. Then tighten the upper cover bolts.
When using the sealer, be careful when reinstalling the covers. The gaskets can slide around as they are squeezed and end up half out! Tighten all cover bolts hand-tight, then make another pass at them with the ratchet tightening them a little more. Make 3-4 passes to get them to full tightness, and you should be fine. Don't tighten one fully and then proceed to the next loose one or you may end up cracking the cover.
I'm laying plans for this project after the New Year. New timing chain, sprockets, rails, tensioner, water pump, main seal, etc.
I can obtain the specialty tools locally.
I'm anticipating this being a full day's work, but no more.
(For background, I've pulled and installed an M20 from my other e30 and I've done a fair amount of work on that engine, as well as about everything else on that car. Plus I have a great buddy who happens to be an excellent mechanic with a very well-equipped shop.)
I'm thinking if we start in the morning, we're reassembling the engine by lunch.
Sound about right?
Well, it depends. If you just want to slam through it and put it all back together, it will be a FULL day if you have a helper. If this is your first time, it is going to be a weekend project if you want to do it right. If you decide to pull the timing case off and replace the gasket behind it, then this is at least a weekend job. Getting it back in can be done without removing the cylinder head, but it is a nerve-wracking pain. If you decide to do that, ask me for some advice.
If you want to do the overhaul and clean every part thoroughly and repair all of the (probably) stripped valve cover bolt holes, and any others in the head (which are likely), this is a 2-4 day job for a first-timer. You will also want to pull the lower oil pan and check for debris, and most importantly, check the upper pan bolts around the pick-up sump. Those have a tendency to strip / fall out (which can lead to an implosion of the gasket around the pick-up in the upper pan), and you may need to do some thread repair in the bottom of the timing case. That requires removal of the upper oil pan, and is a pain in the ass to get off of the car.
Anyway, I can give more advice if you decide to do that stuff. Just start a thread when you do.
