Author Topic: Lower timing cover (Read 14381 times)

318bud · « **on:** June 30, 2011, 10:26:57 AM »

how do i remove it? i have all the bolts off but do i have to get the a/c bracket out the way?
if so how do i?

Nelson_40 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 30, 2011, 03:00:01 PM »

When I was doing my E30's chain I did have to remove the A/C bracket, IIRC it is 5? bolts on the exhaust and two on the front. All but two are a bit annoying to get to, I know on my first attempt I missed one and was puzzled by the fact that so many were used to support the compressor. Don't forget to wire or hold the compressor up in some way so that you don't bend any lines.

Nelson_40 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 30, 2011, 04:25:22 PM »

I did a quick search and found that some people have had success keeping the bolts in place and just sliding the compressor bracket away from the engine.

Look at http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/2-doors/USA/318is-M42/LHD/M/1991/browse/heater_and_air_conditioning/air_cond_compressor_supporting_bracket-2/ to see how the bracket is attached. Good luck, hope whatever work you are doing goes well.

318bud · « **Reply #3 on:** June 30, 2011, 10:11:47 PM »

Okay thanks, yea im trying to get the bracket off and im stuck on one bolt. Its underneath at the very top and the comressor is right in the way. thats why i was thinking i had to remove the compressor or something

318bud · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2011, 06:07:21 PM »

are you saying remove the bracket or take the pulley off and slide it over?
im wandering what kind of trick/technique is used to remove the bolt on the back side of the bracket right behind the compressor. tight *** area

Nelson_40 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2011, 08:10:21 PM »

When I did mine I unbolted the bracket and compressor assembly and had the compressor hanging by support wiring. Unfortunately I can't remember the exact manner in which I removed the bolt, but I did just use either a ratchet/socket or a flat/crescent wrench. I know all about impossible to reach bolts having previously owned an MKII GTI 16v where most everything normally simple on cars was blind/difficult without a lift. So all I can say is just feel for the bolt first, get a tool on it however you can and try to not get frustrated. Sorry I don't have better advice on this one, maybe someone else can add to this, happy wrenching.

KenC · « **Reply #6 on:** July 02, 2011, 09:04:38 AM »

Unbolt the compressor and you'll see the bolts you'll need to remove to get the bracket off.

rjcaptsean · « **Reply #7 on:** July 02, 2011, 12:28:46 PM »

Here's a pic of what is under the compressor. You can also see the bolts at the front that go through the bracket>Timing cover> block.

318bud · « **Reply #8 on:** July 02, 2011, 06:41:04 PM »

thanks for the picture but yea the only bolt still remaining is that one in the middle. Mine must be rusted pretty good cuz its on there tight. im off to get a 1/4in breaker bar tomrrow so hopefully that'll get it. I cant get the compressor out the way cuz i cant loosen the tricky bolt up front (underneath the electric connection) :/
these bolts getting on my nerves lol :mad:

318bud · « **Reply #9 on:** July 03, 2011, 05:23:27 PM »

Finally got the lower timing cover off! any pointers on installing the new gaskets? should i use sealant all around the block/covers? I heard that new gaskets tend to leak on these cars:rolleyes:
Hopefully this will be the end of the oil leaking days!:D

DesktopDave · « **Reply #10 on:** July 04, 2011, 11:59:23 AM »

I'd definitely use some of that spray-on gasket stuff, especially since it seals and tacks them in place a bit; makes it easier to line all that stuff up.

I've had good luck with Permatex aerosol copper sealant, but that's meant for high heat applications. I'd avoid it for any other use. Hylomar comes highly recommended but I haven't tried it myself. Here's a good page (even better than Permatex's own site) with good descriptions of their products. The rubber gasket dressing looks like it might work as well.

318bud · « **Reply #11 on:** July 06, 2011, 09:33:43 AM »

for some reason it wont start up and turn over :/
one time it even made a little pop noise
anything that i should check to make sure ? Everything seems fine
only thing i can think of is the spark plug order? spark plug number 1 is up front right, than 2 behind that than 3 and 4

DesktopDave · « **Reply #12 on:** July 06, 2011, 09:39:42 AM »

Double check your timing. Make sure your cylinders/coils/wires all match...coil harness plug 1 goes to wire 1 goes to cyl 1. Motor is numbered 1-2-3-4 from rad to firewall.

If it's not that, check that your CPS is working and is as close as possible to the crank trigger wheel.

318bud · « **Reply #13 on:** July 06, 2011, 12:38:40 PM »

my coil packs were out of place so i had to switch #1 to #3 and vice versa. Should i do something after this to set the packs in place? And also how do i check if the CPS is working?

Heres a video of what my engine is doing. Its just not turning over

blalor · « **Reply #14 on:** July 06, 2011, 01:31:19 PM »

It's turning over, it's just not firing. Are you getting spark? Pull each of the spark plug wires in turn, stick a screwdriver tip into the boot so that it's touching the conductor that grabs onto the spark plug tip, and then get the shaft of the screwdriver close to the intake or another good conductor with a path to the chassis ground. Have someone crank the ignition. You should (a) be holding onto the plastic handle and (b) see a spark jump the gap between the shaft and ground. If you get a spark for all four plugs, make sure the plugs are connected to the correct coil.

Did you pull any of the relays? It could be that the fuel pump isn't getting power.