MikeDE's M42-Touring project...UPDATE Sept.24-Susp/Brakes....

[MikeDE]

This is copied from my R3V thread, but I will update both....any questions, please ask.

Well, the time has come.  I had been keeping my eye out for a complete, running e30 318is.  I never intended to buy an already-plucked M42, nor did I want an M44 regardless of condition due to the many parts I would need to make it work properly in an E30.
      While I was out euro-parts scouting at a used-car handler, this was the first thing that caught my eye:

 
The hood was popped when I saw it so I open it up and what do I find but an M42, with a fairly new rad...

 
But I thought, 'probably has a million miles on knowing the Germans...

But too my surprise, it has only 160k km, or 100k miles.
 
I talked to the Schrottplatz owner, Hans, and he told me it was an Abwrackpraemie(sp?)auto, or German cash-4-clunkers.  It was turned in about a yr ago.  His brother Thorsen, co-owner of the Schrottplatz, wanted to part it when it came in.  But Hans woulldn't allow it, being an ex-E30 M3 owner himself, he knew it's worth. We threw a battery on it, started right up and let it idle for a good 15 minutes.  It's a smooth runner.  I don't have a place to gut it, but that doesn't matter as a cash-4-clunkers vehicle has no papers and can never be re-reg'd or 'sold'.  So Hans said it's ok for me to part it there, as he must crush the chassis afterwards.
There appears to be Koni suspension, the Weaves are in good shape, as are the ellip's.  I have to remove the seats to see what they are.  The brackets may also be useful.  The steering wheel is MOMO, and has the horn button/centerpiece I need for a wooden MOMO that I had found a feew days before.

 
I plan to have it done latest by early summer, and get it to the 'Ring.
 
My Plans also include FK 60/40 kit & refinishing my MSW meshes:

 

 
Dunno what diff is in the donor yet, but I will see soon.  With any luck it's LSD.  The rest will be sold off as will the old M40/trans/DS/ecu/yada yada.


05/05/2011

Well, I finally got the motor back home yesterday morning.  It was a PITA.  I had to lount it to the stand at the Junkyard as I have no crane at home.  Got it on the trailer and home safely.  
 
Here is where it gets good.  I have a 1" thick, 2+ meter long, 75cm wide plank that I use to offload stuff from the trailer.  The wheels on the stand are 73cm on the inside track and about 77cm on the outside....sooooo I had about 1-1.5 cm of wheels on the ramp as i'm in front of the motor, slowly rolling it down.  Very scary.
 
Here it is in my small, cluttered, somewhat dirty work area.

 

 
And my work area....It will be clean and organized(this weekend I hope) prior to any disassembly.

Beer, PB Blaster, and Coffee,  all necessary for me when working...at home.
 
And a few other things OI have lying around for the Touring.
 
Wood MOMO, found at junkyard.  Good deal.  Just have to polish it a bit.

 
MSW, same as above.

 
Koni SA's.  I have the full set that came off of the iS donor.

 
 I also have an E36 rack that will be going in when the motor is out.
 
More updates to come after I tidy up and start tearing down.


05/17/2001

Made a little progress today with the 1.5 hrs I had before I had to get ready for work.
 
Pretty much everything to this point went smoothly, except the fan clutch.  It was seized on the WP so I undid the WP pulley bolts, and got the long 6mm allen bolt out like so:

 
Found some scary stuff along the way:

 
Reached my goal for today anyway by quittin' time, all ancilliaries removed and onto checking the cam sprockets and general condition of the cams/under the valve cover.

They look pretty good to me.
 
And the cams, sorry for the shit pics, but i'm using my old 10D and there's not too much light in my work area.


 
And this is how it sits now.  I plan to have the Pans and timing covers off tomorrow to get a look at the thrust bearing/crankshaft and timing components.

[MikeDE]

05/18/2011

My goal today was to get the oilpan(s), cylinder head, and timing cover off so I can get an idea of what I need to swap to the M44 timing case...but hold the phone, what is this!!??



BAMMMM!!!  Simplest explanation, this is an M44.  Other explanation, the PO swapped to the M44 front case.  I think it's the latter as there are no knock sensors, and no unconnected connectors.  I have to check the DME# to be sure.

I'm going to try to find the PO, and try to find out how many KM's are on the timing components.  If they are relatively fresh, then I will be resealing it, and installing a new tensioner & front crank seal, after I change the head gasket & profile gasket.

Gasket still seated properly, happy happy joy joy.


I will have to buy the long/skinny BMW E12 torx socket as I do not wish to remove the cams.  My E12 is too fat to get in there.

05/20/2011

Pulled the timing chain guides/rails, and cylinder head this morning.  I went to the dealer before hand to see if I could buy the Long E12 to remove the bolts, he said he had to go check in the back, and hoe comes out with this:

he says, "Bring it back when you're done".....sweet.
 
The rails/guides look to be in excellent condition and I will probably be offering them up for sale as i have already ordered new ones.  The profile gasket looks new.......

I can barely feel the wear with my finger.
 
Head surface on the block and head look very nice.  A little carbon on the piston will come off easily with a little oven cleaner.

 
BMW Head gasket

 
No pitting whatsoever on the profile gasket sealing area.

 
And here is where it goes awry.  First, pull your filter BEFORE the pan, or else you get this mess:

 
So I decide to finish today, I will pull the oil filter housing.  Right off the bat, with no warning from either bolt, the front (2) lowers break clean off, in the goddamn timing case.  And I must have twisted the top front longer bolt at least 3 times before just the head broke off.  I PB'd the broken sections so I can work on them next week.  Need to pickup some reverse drill bits and a propane torch.  I'll heat them then hit 'em with the reverse bits and removers, maybe i'll get lucky.


05/21/2011

Well, I had a few minutes today((no pics) and had to know if I would be drilling my timing case....well...
Last time, I got as far as breaking 3/6 of the oil filter housing mounting bolts. The long top bolt snapped off at the head of the bolt and the lower 2, at the timing case, or so I thought. I used a prybar, gently, and a brass drift/hammer to break the housing free. It was hung up a bit on the longer broken top bolt, as it was cocked from twisting, but broke free after a few solid whacks. As it's slowly coming off, I see that in fact the lower 2 bolts had snapped off and left me about 3/16" of thread hanging out.
The top bolt was first and initially turned by hand, when it hung up, I grabbed it with some vice-grips and out it came. I shocked the lower 2 with a punch/hammer a few times each, locked the good ol' vice-grips on them and it turned, as did the second.
I proceeded to pull the timing case, and all looks ok. I will be picking up a few parts from the dealer on Monday morning so I can proceed with reassembly, after I clean all the crap off of the oilpans, timing case, intake manifold/TB, etc. Plus, I still have to redo the input/output/selector shaft seals on the trans, the rubber bushing in the diff cover, and the guibo & CSB.

05/22/2011

Wow – that’s weird seeing the timing case without the idler sprocket.
Ha! I had the same deal with the top two oil filter housing bolts. Snapped off. Torched ‘em, PB blasted. Off with vice grips.
 
Jealous of the lack of pitting on your timing case and head. Nice! Maybe the timing case was swapped to the m44 piece because of the way mine was? Curious to hear what the PO’s story is.
 
fwiw – an E12 socket from a local parts store + standard socket extensions worked for me.
 
Puzzled why you’re replacing oil pump rotor?
 
Thanks for your help with my timing.
 
Anyways – Cheers! Have fun!

I am curious about the PO's story as well but I think I will never find out.
I think it was swapped from a donor motor and new guides were put in, BUT I think they used the old tensioner for some reason.  It rattled a bit when I first heard it run.  I also think they left the original oil filter housing on it due to the corrosion on the bolts.
 
I replaced the oil pump rotors and cover b/c they, like the oil pressure relief valve, idler gear, and profile gasket are a weak point on the M42/M44.  They're relatively cheap at about $70 for the rotors & cover, plus a couple extra $$ for the timing case gasket.  Also, I didn't have to buy an M44 case so I don't mind spending the money.
 
Your welcome on the help, I just thought it looked 'not right' and it bugged me, even though it was 1am and I just got home from work.  After doing DSM/4G63 t-belts for so long, I understand the insanity that comes from repeated attempts at setting timing(f'ing oil pump sprocket always had me scratching my head).
 

I'm guessing it's a different case, but I'm not completely certain.

See above, the case is M44 but the rest of the guides, save for the M44-specific deflection rail, are the same.  The oil pump rotors and cover are also interchangeable.  I have the updated( I hope) oil relief valve coming as well.  I will also be ordering the updated(I hope also) lower thrust bearing shell.  If it is not, I will be ordering the lower-half(pan side) M50 thrust/crank bearing.  The M42 and M50 block side are the same # so the pan side must fit.....I will be letting you all know what I find.  I still have to pull the crank journal cap and inspect the crank for wear.

Today...
I stopped at the dealer a few days ago and picked some parts...



From top left, oil pump/cover/coverbolts & new bolts/o-ring/gasket for the oil filter housing, then the updated oil pressure relief valve parts, and on the bottom brand-spankin new guides and tensioner.  Against the wall, the E36 metal cover gasket and the timing case gasket.

Also picked up the M50 pan-side thrust bearing half....in standard size in the corresponding color.

The old bearing shows little to no wear, and the new bearing to the right.

And in the cap.....


A little assembly lube and 43-46ft-lbs later, it's in.  The assembly turns smoothly as well.


Cleaned up the block-to-timing case surface as well, and that's where I left off today.


More to come soon.....

[DesktopDave]

Wow.

I'm really glad you're doing this, as I was thinking along the exact same lines.  Once I get the chassis where I want it, the motor is the next big item.  My plan is very similar...same M44 front covers, same parts updates.

Thanks for posting all that.  I'd be doing the same thing if only we could get a touring over here...

[MikeDE]

 I'd be doing the same thing if only we could get a touring over here...

Wait a few years....they have to be 25yrs old then you can have one brought from Germany.

[bmwman91]

Excellent thread! I love the pictures. I spent the last 3 days stripping & reassembling my M42 (has everything off except the head...the idler sprocket blew & I decided to replace all paper gaskets with new ones + non-curing sealer). In retrospect, it would have been easier overall to pull the head since getting the timing case back on with it there is a nightmare.

Question:
What is this about a M50 thrust bearing? Is this a mod that helps improve crank life?

Advice:
1) I would highly recommend installing Helicoils / thread repair inserts in ALL tapped aluminum holes. For some reason, a large number of the threaded holes in the head/timing case/upper oil pan strip over time. It may be from over tightening + repeated thermal stress. At the least, put inserts in all of the M6x1 holes. It will be a snap with the motor completely apart.
2) Use gasket sealer with the paper gaskets. If you run synthetic oil (or even crude probably), and use dry stock paper gaskets, you will have oil weeping from every gasket line & the motor will be a mess in a couple of years (mine was before this weekend...2-3mm of sludge on almost all surfaces). Find some high-temperature, non-curing gasket sealer that is rated for use with oil/coolant. The head gasket requires special sealer, if you use any at all, but seal all other gaskets!

[MikeDE]

Question:
What is this about a M50 thrust bearing? Is this a mod that helps improve crank life?

Advice:
1) I would highly recommend installing Helicoils / thread repair inserts in ALL tapped aluminum holes.

2) Use gasket sealer with the paper gaskets. If you run synthetic oil (or even crude probably), and use dry stock paper gaskets...The head gasket requires special sealer, if you use any at all, but seal all other gaskets!

The M50 is an M42 with 2 extra cylinders.  If you look at the orig M42 upper half thrust bearing part #, it coincides with the upper-half M50 #. Does it help improve crank life??  If by crank life you mean not having the 180deg bearing prematurely eat into the crank, then ya.  But really, it lightens the load on the crank/thrust bearing.

I will not be inviting trouble by doing helicoils, all of my threads were in excellent condition.  I will be reassembling everything, so I don't really see an issue(knock on wood) with stripping threads.

I have a metal timing case gasket as well as the 1pc E36 metal timing case gasket/set.  I don't think sealer is necessary.  As for the head gasket, same thing goes, I probably won't be using a sealer.  I will probably however use something on the upper oil pan gasket, especially where it sits over the timing case/block & the rear main seal housing/block joints.  I will leave the lower pan dry when installing.  It will be easier to clean and change on the roadside w/o the extra sealant on it.  I already have an extra lower pan + gasket to keep in the car hahahaa.  I will be fabbing a skid-plate but it never hurts to be prepared.  I like taking the angled curbs over here in and out of the traffic circles and generally I drive my Touring hard.

[Gerta318is]

Mike - great work!  I'm sub'd for the results!

[MikeDE]

Sorry for the long wait....

Went at it yesterday and had an 'oil pump' issue http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=213067  ...I had to order the skinnier pump:


And here it is installed:


And the new cover tq'd down:


And the timing case cleaned up a bit, and tq'd to the block:


And the updated oil pressure relief valve:


This is how I compressed it to get the snap-ring:

I leaned on the towel/driver/extension to hold the spring, then jimmy'd the ring into place.

Upper Pan and pickup in place, sealed, Loctite'd, and tq'd:


Lower pan tidied up a bit:


And sealed and tq'd, along with the Oil filter housing:
 

That's it for today, I will try to clean the head tomorrow morning and get it bolted on this week.

[MikeDE]

Well, it's been a few weeks since the last update...
 
I had gone back to the dealer to borrow the E12 again, but they lost it. Soooo I had them order one for me from BMW.  A week later, here it is:

And only 29euro.
 
I torqued the head down in accordance with the manual, threw on the lower intake manifold, changed the upper and lower injector o-rings and the rotted fuel lines on the feed/return pipe.  Installed the new guide on the oil filter side, and the old upper and lower guides while they were in excellent shape.. Separated the Header & cat pipe, and temporarily hung it on the motor to get it off of the floor.  The new studs and nuts will be in tomorrow afternoon:

 
You may have noticed that I am missing some timing components, well, the PO made some kind of Frankenstein-mutt-bastard-timing setup on this bitch.  It is an M42 timing case, I know I know, 'but it has a deflection rail instead of the time-bomb-make-whole in your wallet when it explodes Idler gear, BUT if you check realoem.com, you will see that the (Europe) E36 M42's produced from 9/93-9/95 according to the pic, have the deflection rail.  This is why mine did not accept the later, thicker M44 pump, b/c it is in fact an M42 case.
 
Here is one issue I ran into:

On the right is the M42 guide.  I ordered the M44 guide by accident.  At the time I hadn't even removed the oil pump yet so I was unaware of the 'late' M42 timing case.  Soooo, I ordered the Bushing/bolt/washer from the dealer, they should be in by Tuesday.  Oh yeah, the bolts only come in qty's of 10!!  
 
And I ordered a COP kit, so these go bye-bye:

Can anyone tell me, startiung from the top left and going clockwise, which cyl each lead goes to??   Thanks.
 
 
 
So, being fed-up with staring at that goddam motor, I turned my frustration on the Transmission.

 
First, I had to drain the fluid, but I have no 17mm wrench, but I have a Pipe wrench, leverage and a wheel-bolt:

A word to the wise, always undo the filler FIRST^, then thre drain:

 
And some new parts(among many others) I picked up from Mr. Blunt:

Except for the slave and line, I bought that from another member along with a Never installed Massive Hartge/Mtech/whatever-style dead pedal, a Whore-and-a-half to install over carpet but I'm happy with it.
 
The old pivot worn to a nub:

 
 
And lastly, can someone give me a part no on this pc:

I have no VIN for the car I grabbbed the motor out of and realoem has 2 different numbers and the pic doesn't coincide, thanks.
 
Stay tuned for more pics in the next week, My wife is taking the kids to the North Sea for about a week, so I will have some time to get some shit done.  In the background above, thew yellow springs are the KW 40/40's I just picked up.  I also verified that in fact I have a full set of Koni SA's to go with them, already adjusted.  I also picked up a set of the Goodridge SS brake lines from Blunty as well, they will be going on this weekend possibly.  If I can sell some shit, I will also be ordering the Massive Street kit for the mofo.

[DesktopDave]

I love reading your posts.  It's a downright pleasure.  You have no idea how happy I am about your timing case info...I've been scrounging for a new case and this is excellent info.  I'm not sure about the coils, but from this thread the DME pins are:
24   Ignition cyl 3   BK
25   Ignition cyl 1   BK
51   Ignition cyl 4   BK
52   Ignition cyl 2   BK

As for that part, I'm not even sure what it is...the brake booster hose?

[MikeDE]

Yeah, it's the booster hose BUT I may just use the part no for my M40 318i to order a new one.

As for the wires/pinouts, I'll check them with a simple continuity test since the harness is sitting on my workbench.

BTW, thanks Dave.

[Gerta318is]

Sell some stuff to me ...

[romkasponka]

Is it posible to swap m44 oil pump with housing to m42 engine?

[MikeDE]

Is it posible to swap m44 oil pump with housing to m42 engine?

By 'housing', you mean the whole timing case?  If so, then yes, you can.  BUT it has to be an M44 oil pump and timing case together!!  As the M44 oil pump is a bit wider:

[MikeDE]

double post...will use for the next update