Author Topic: M42 Self destruction suicide Revival thread... (Read 7486 times)

fiftytakedowns · « **on:** January 09, 2011, 03:54:07 PM »

A continuation from:

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12624

So now I have a spare long block that needs a couple parts, but is in good shape, and some other parts that can help me do this, as well as a place to work. I decided to get it towed back to marin and get to work.

Well today I found some interesting if not good results from the teardown.

I pulled the Plugs today and cranked the engine over by hand as advised to by a family friend mechanic. and felt for any resistance or seizure. luckily, I found niether, and the engine turned over extremely smooth. this points me to think that there was no contact between the valves and the pistons.

Secondy, Looking at the plugs, there was no shrapnel damage, or any for that matter on the spark plugs. This also points me to believe that the pistons and valves never touched.

when taking a mini LED flashlight and poking around the combustion chamber through the spark plug areas I didnt see any damage on the pistons, jsut a we bit of carbon coating.

im about to start pulling off the timing cover gasket to see what rails are damaged ETc..... Anyone have anything else they think I should look out for?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** January 09, 2011, 03:58:16 PM »

Hmmm. Sounds like you're off to a promising start. Do you have the capability to do a leakdown test? That's the way I'd go.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #2 on:** January 09, 2011, 04:58:44 PM »

I dont know how to do a leakdown test, of all the engines Ive built, never had to do that.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #3 on:** January 09, 2011, 05:01:06 PM »

Im going to check to see if the Crank and the Cam sprockets Are at TDC maybe then I will actually see if it has skipped a tooth or not. Ill pick up a compression tester and see what the numbers are. and report back.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #4 on:** January 09, 2011, 06:47:36 PM »

Just slapped in the probe, the Chain sprockets were consistent with the TDC of the piston. Doesnt look like the chain skipped....

Not Sure · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2011, 06:23:46 AM »

oh the memories of the timing case profile gasket are rushing back

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #6 on:** January 10, 2011, 12:31:11 PM »

Quote from: not sure;100284

oh the memories of the timing case profile gasket are rushing back

lol

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #7 on:** January 20, 2011, 07:28:07 PM »

just spent 270 on parts fml

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2011, 02:44:48 AM »

So today I nearly finsihed the entire timing chain rebuild.

all I have left to do is Torque the 22MM Crank pulley, and add the eight bolts on the pulley. I got rid of the front dampener for the power steering and AC cause I have niether. 3lb ROTational WEIGHT LOSS FTW.

How does one torque that 22mm bolt without a gun?

I did find a puncture; A tiny tiny leak in the radiator. I threw in a raw egg cause I was so fed up. anyone else know how to fix a little leak in the radiator?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2011, 07:13:46 AM »

You're getting close, sounds like.

You can torque the bolt with a ratchet wrench and a 2-3' pipe. I'll bet that'd be good for anything up to 300 ft-lb. I'm not sure how I'd do it off the car though.

I've had luck with both JB Weld and plumbing solder on metallic parts of radiators, but I have yet to find an epoxy that works for the glass-reinforced nylon end tanks. I've heard a really hot soldering iron can weld it if you add a little extra nylon. Check out Harbor Freight if you have one close by, they have a cheap plastic welder and nylon welding sticks that might do the trick.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2011, 11:43:15 AM »

If you put the motor back in the car before trying to crank the 22mm bolt into place, you can borrow the damper-holding tool I made years ago. It is a piece of 1/2" steel plate with 6 holes in it that you bolt in place of the pulley. Put a block of wood where the intake box would be & this rests on that. Then crank away with a breaker bar & pipe!

You may also be able to do it with the motor out, but you'd need to figure that one out.

rjcaptsean · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2011, 12:25:11 PM »

Is the trans off the block and can you get to the Flywheel? If so, you can get a piece of strap steel (6-8" long, 1" wide and at least 1/8" thick) and drill two holes in it. Bolt one end to the engine case and the other to one of the outer pressure plate holes. This should keep the engine from rotating. As soon as I find a picture, I will post it.

Tried to upload a picture, but Photobucket seems to be having a bad day...

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2011, 03:52:14 PM »

The engine is in the car all bolted up, upon starting it up, the crank pullet came loose so tahts how I discovered that I needed to torque it down. I also did the *egg* trick. it sort of worked I guess. I'd liek to fix it on the cheap cheap if possible.

thanks

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #13 on:** February 04, 2011, 04:15:00 PM »

alright, JB welding the Radiator as we speak.

got the car started, tensioner has some pressure and it's running, although it's a bit rough.

I get sort of a ticking noise as if someone hasnt adjusted their valves. anyone familiar with this?

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #14 on:** February 05, 2011, 06:39:22 PM »

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13819714/MVI_0245.AVI

Here how it looks/ sounds, a little Video to say the least.